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Black Rhino Armory Wheels - Lug Torque Specs?

RKRecordings

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Anyone with Black Rhino Armory wheels who rotates their own tires - I would really appreciate your input here. (I have a 2020 2-Door Sport, 17” wheels)

Maybe my Googling skills need work or something, but I can’t find any solid info on what I should torque my lug nuts to. I checked the torque before I rotated my tires (a dealership mechanic was the last to touch them) and they read 76 ft/lbs.

I have a mechanic friend who has a Ram with different wheels by Black Rhino, and he torques them to manufacturer’s specs which is 130 ft/lbs. He said 76ft/lbs. sounds really low. I’m pretty sure these Armory wheels are an aluminum alloy, and I don’t want to over-torque and damage the lug wells or something, so in the end I went with 80 ft/lbs.

I went for a drive after I was finished and checked my torque afterwards - all good, still at 80 ft/lbs. This seems like it should be just fine, but I would really like to hear what others with the same setup are doing. Any input is appreciated!
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Anyone with Black Rhino Armory wheels who rotates their own tires - I would really appreciate your input here. (I have a 2020 2-Door Sport, 17” wheels)

Maybe my Googling skills need work or something, but I can’t find any solid info on what I should torque my lug nuts to. I checked the torque before I rotated my tires (a dealership mechanic was the last to touch them) and they read 76 ft/lbs.

I have a mechanic friend who has a Ram with different wheels by Black Rhino, and he torques them to manufacturer’s specs which is 130 ft/lbs. He said 76ft/lbs. sounds really low. I’m pretty sure these Armory wheels are an aluminum alloy, and I don’t want to over-torque and damage the lug wells or something, so in the end I went with 80 ft/lbs.

I went for a drive after I was finished and checked my torque afterwards - all good, still at 80 ft/lbs. This seems like it should be just fine, but I would really like to hear what others with the same setup are doing. Any input is appreciated!
Lugnut TQ is for the stud and lugnut, not related to the wheel material. Use what Jeep says it should be.

With any aftermarket wheel, make sure you have enough thread engagement on the lug nuts you're using before torquing.
 
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Lugnut TQ is for the stud and lugnut, not related to the wheel material. Use what Jeep says it should be.

With any aftermarket wheel, make sure you have enough thread engagement on the lug nuts you're using before torquing.
Thanks for the quick reply! So my mechanic friend told me to go by what Jeep says as well (which I believe is either 120 or 130 ft/lbs.) but I don’t understand why then the dealership would only have torqued them to 76 ft/lbs. I have a digital-read torque wrench so I keep saying 76 because they all read just about exactly that.

Regarding the material the wheel is made of vs the stud and lug nut - isn’t the wheel sandwiched between the rotor and lug nut? It makes sense to me that you would torque according to the stud and lug nut like you said, but when there is an aluminum alloy pressed between them wouldn’t you have to take that into consideration? Or am I just doing a bad job of visualizing how the wheel mounts onto the rotor?
 

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I have a set of Black Rhino Barstow. Do my own rotations and torque to 130ft/lbs every time.
 

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I have a set of Black Rhino Barstow. Do my own rotations and torque to 130ft/lbs every time.
Anything negative to report about those wheels?
I’m about to mount some Barstow bronze/black 17x9 with 37” M/T Baja Boss tires.
There’s not much talk about either of these wheels or tires on the inter webs from regular people.
 

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Anything negative to report about those wheels?
I’m about to mount some Barstow bronze/black 17x9 with 37” M/T Baja Boss tires.
There’s not much talk about either of these wheels or tires on the inter webs from regular people.
No problems at all for me. I’m running 35’s and have been on the rocks with them numerous times. I have the matte black which in my opinion is good for me because when I get a rock scratch on it I just cover it with a paint pen and you can’t tell.
 
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I have a set of Black Rhino Barstow. Do my own rotations and torque to 130ft/lbs every time.
Well, this is sounding like the answer. I still am just scratching my head that I’ve been riding around with 76 ft/lbs. on the lug nuts from the dealership - ever since they installed my lift and wheels I’ve had them do 1 rotation... anyway, thanks for chiming in I appreciate it.
 

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Well, this is sounding like the answer. I still am just scratching my head that I’ve been riding around with 76 ft/lbs. on the lug nuts from the dealership - ever since they installed my lift and wheels I’ve had them do 1 rotation... anyway, thanks for chiming in I appreciate it.
  • It's quite difficult to get any form of an accurate 'reverse' torque reading. Only special torque wrenches are designed to give that type of measurement.
  • The dealership technician probably zapped the lugs nuts on with an air impact gun or battery-powered impact gun. They likely didn't torque the individual lug nuts unless it was a Porsche, Ferrari or Mercedes-Benz dealership.
  • Always check the lug nut torque at home with your own torque wrench.
  • Always return the torque wrench to '0' ft. lbs. when you're finished so the tension rod inside doesn't stretch over time.
 

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don't try to understand, both our jls came from the factory w fuses unset, coolant caps off thread or unscrewed, and several lugs that were not torqued to the 130 ft lbs.

80, low imo, but easy to break for rotations.
 

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Just ask @cosine he knows!
It's possible they used the torque for the JK which has smaller 1/2" lugs and a torque in the 85ft lb range. The JL has significantly larger 14mm lugs, hence the significantly larger 130ft lb torque.

It took dealers a couple years to stop filling the V6 w/ 6qts of oil since that's what the JK took, so I'd imagine wheel torque could also follow suit :(
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