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ChattVol

ChattVol

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Ya someone was just telling me to plan for 40” tires, which means d60’s. I know that regearing will help but I don’t wanna stress the engine too much. Have plans for a hemi swap?
The key seems to be figuring out what tire size you want to run and building to support that AND then having discipline to resist upsizing tires.:lipssealed:

I'd like to regear to 5.13 and stick with 37s on these axles.(possibly run 38s:CWL: down the road) IMHO, a decent driver can do some legit wheelin with a JL locked up on 37s with a 2.5" lift and skids. If I go bigger, costs seem to increase exponentially for axles and other supporting mods. It's simply not worth it to me to realistically spend another $8-12k to gain another 1-2" of clearance running 40s when I have 4 kids and a wife at home to support. If you've got the funds, I say go for it.:jk:
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ChattVol

ChattVol

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My $0.15 worth.
The Stock Rubicon D44 has some weakness issues due to the FAD.
My D44 has the Artec truss system that was put on by a very good shop (Stacked Off Road).
Like anything else, if the welding is done properly (e.g., right weld settings, take you time, don't weld too much at any one time, etc.), the issues with installing trusses can be avoided.
Of course one can break any axle (e.g., D44, UD44, D60) by going crazy and doing stupid stuff.

ChattVol's rig is amazing and he drives this rig off road very well.
Good points....thanks for the kind words...your 2 door is incredible. If you've got a stud like Diesel at Stacked Offroad welding on your truss, then I'd have full confidence it was done correctly. :beer:
 
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The key seems to be figuring out what tire size you want to run and building to support that AND then having discipline to resist upsizing tires.:lipssealed:

I'd like to regear to 5.13 and stick with 37s on these axles.(possibly run 38s:CWL: down the road) IMHO, a decent driver can do some legit wheelin with a JL locked up on 37s with a 2.5" lift and skids. If I go bigger, costs seem to increase exponentially for axles and other supporting mods. It's simply not worth it to me to realistically spend another $8-12k to gain another 2-3" of clearance running 40s when I have 4 kids and a wife at home to support. If you've got the funds, I say go for it.:jk:
I have two little ones(1 yr old and soon to be 3 yr old). I’d be happy with 37-38”s, and in ways I wish I sat down I really thought over what I wanted my Jeep too end up like (a stage I’d be happy with for awhile). Some of my upgrades have been good but others like my first set of tires were a waste of money, or doing a 2.5” lift when I went to the 3.5” lift(coils only needed to be swapped out) only months later. If I could go back I would’ve just saved the money that I wasted on tires and the initial lift to get rubicon take off’s axles and just saved money for something else like air lockers. I just upgraded my gears too 4.88 which should last me for a bit. I’m jealous of the 37”s I see others on but I’ll wait till I have the Jeep paid off more before the axles.
 
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Went riding today with a group of folks on some unique old washed out old mining roads/overgrown trails in Whitwell TN...had some fun obstacles. Had 2 gladiators, 2 jlu's and a stout XJ on 37s & d60s.
Jeep Wrangler JL Billet Sport S- Rubi Axle/T-Case Swap 3cCUFSX
Jeep Wrangler JL Billet Sport S- Rubi Axle/T-Case Swap aT8a8S5

Jeep Wrangler JL Billet Sport S- Rubi Axle/T-Case Swap gi3s3xJ
N0SzGGC.jpg


Check out this punk'n jlu on 2.5" lift & 40" stt pros on stock axles with only RCV's in front...4.10 gearing.
Jeep Wrangler JL Billet Sport S- Rubi Axle/T-Case Swap LXqWwbr
Jeep Wrangler JL Billet Sport S- Rubi Axle/T-Case Swap u675LMd
 
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This may be helpful...I had some heavy tire rubbing at one point in front under chopped fender area on upper body/brackets running 2" bumpstops with 37s on 17x8.5 wheels with 4.75" backspacing. Front shocks extend to 29". I'm learning that slowly test flexing to check for tire clearance with a forklift or on a flex ramp isn't the same as flexing while wheelin in offcamber situations. I think the axle shifts more wheelin drooping one side with longer shocks under faster compression with weight on each corner distributed differently. The front lower bumpstops dont seem to be missing the upper bumpstop pad during compression bc the lined up on a forklift test and on other "flex rocks". I checked that the axles are centered.

My takeaways....I should have listened to @TTEChris and kept the KMC wheels with 3.5 backspacing. He, Metalcloak and Rock Krawler advised that less backspacing is needed to accommodate the axle shifting with longer shocks. If you're running 37s and want to flex alot wheelin...I'd go with wheels backspaced 4.5 or less. Here is the front rubbing:
Jeep Wrangler JL Billet Sport S- Rubi Axle/T-Case Swap FgCC5D8

Below are the rear @Motobilt rear liners...I dont like how they sit lower than the body and angle in reducing clearance. The axles are centered in the wheelwell and 37s rub a decent amount in the rear after only flexing a few times. Definitely couldn't fit 38s...will prob have to cut them. I'm not happy spending $200 on these + 2 coats of paint...Motobilt needs to redesign these.
Jeep Wrangler JL Billet Sport S- Rubi Axle/T-Case Swap YwPC9RN
 
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Added a few things earlier this week and wrenched alot today making adjustments after the 37s rubbed alot last time out. Looking forward to wheelin with several forum members next wknd at Adventure Offroad Park. Fixed body under front fenders as best that I could and touched up paint it and the liners. Added a 3/4" Daystar spacer lift to front bc it was sagging a bit due to extra weight of armor and also added a bumpstop.(running 3" in front now) Rotated tires and retorqued everything.

Jeep Wrangler JL Billet Sport S- Rubi Axle/T-Case Swap 20200816_181036


Added Rusty's rear LCA frame side skids bc they've been dragging on ledges.
Jeep Wrangler JL Billet Sport S- Rubi Axle/T-Case Swap 20200816_181828


Added a hitch for our bike racks
Jeep Wrangler JL Billet Sport S- Rubi Axle/T-Case Swap 20200813_193330


My $60 Masterflow compressor finally died after 2 years and 20+ uses. Bought the 2 cylinder bigger one for $129. Test aired up a 37 from 12-30psi in 2 min 5 seconds....incredible bang for the buck considering it's close to as fast as the $550 ARB twin for $400 less. Love it! :handsinair:
Jeep Wrangler JL Billet Sport S- Rubi Axle/T-Case Swap Resized_20200815_163554(1)
Jeep Wrangler JL Billet Sport S- Rubi Axle/T-Case Swap Resized_20200815_155341(2)


Jeep Wrangler JL Billet Sport S- Rubi Axle/T-Case Swap 20200816_180945
 
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Wrenched hard today making adjustments after the 37s rubbed alot last time out. Looking forward to wheelin with several forum members next wknd at Adventure Offroad Park. Fixed body under front fenders as best that I could and touched up paint. Added a 3/4" Daystar spacer lift to front bc it was sagging a bit due to extra weight of armor and also added a bumpstop.(running 3" in front now) Rotated tires and retorqued everything.

Jeep Wrangler JL Billet Sport S- Rubi Axle/T-Case Swap 20200816_180945

View attachment 359139

Added Rusty's rear LCA frame side skids bc I was dragging them.
Jeep Wrangler JL Billet Sport S- Rubi Axle/T-Case Swap 20200816_180945


Added a hitch for our bike racks
Jeep Wrangler JL Billet Sport S- Rubi Axle/T-Case Swap 20200816_180945

My $60 Masterflow compressor finally died after 2 years and 20+ uses. Bought the 2 cylinder bigger one for $129. Test aired up a 37 from 12-30psi in 2 min 5 seconds....incredible bang for the buck considering it's close to as fast as the $550 ARB twin for $400 less. Love it! :handsinair:
Jeep Wrangler JL Billet Sport S- Rubi Axle/T-Case Swap 20200816_180945
Jeep Wrangler JL Billet Sport S- Rubi Axle/T-Case Swap 20200816_180945


Jeep Wrangler JL Billet Sport S- Rubi Axle/T-Case Swap 20200816_180945
Looking badass sir. :rock:


Also, thanks for the tip on compressors. I really wasn't a fan of spending $500+ on ARB's offering. What's the duty cycle on that?
 

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ChattVol,

Your rig is looking great.
Sorry to hear that the fender liners are giving some troubles.
Maybe time for a RK long arm conversion? :D
 
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Looking badass sir. :rock:


Also, thanks for the tip on compressors. I really wasn't a fan of spending $500+ on ARB's offering. What's the duty cycle on that?
Thanks...was my first time removing the springs and installing a lift by myself...was a good learning experience disconnecting everything and learning to strategically use a jack in the driveway. Offroad shops using a lift make it look much easier...took me 5 hours to do front and install rear skids.:CWL:

The duty cycle for the Masterflow MF1089 compressor is 40 minutes on, 40 minutes off. It will take about 9 minutes to air up (4) 37s from 12-30psi. I enjoy finding good deals and think this is a real bargain when compared with the ARB twin cylinder. A buddy of mine has wheeled buggy's for years and recommended Masterflow. Here's the link:
https://masterflowair.com/products/mf-1089
 

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Thanks...was my first time removing the springs and installing a lift by myself...was a good learning experience disconnecting everything and learning to strategically use a jack in the driveway. Offroad shops using a lift make it look much easier...took me 5 hours to do front and install rear skids.:CWL:

The duty cycle for the Masterflow MF1089 compressor is 40 minutes on, 40 minutes off. It will take about 9 minutes to air up (4) 37s from 12-30psi. I enjoy finding good deals and think this is a real bargain when compared with the ARB twin cylinder. A buddy of mine has wheeled buggy's for years and recommended Masterflow. Here's the link:
https://masterflowair.com/products/mf-1089
Ordered.

At that price, it can be replaced several times before I would spent ARB money.

Still have to grab the bag when I go wheeling and it won’t always be there but it has to be lighter than the tank.
 

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ChattVol,

Your rig is looking great.
Sorry to hear that the fender liners are giving some troubles.
Maybe time for a RK long arm conversion? :D
Thanks...I'm not too concerned about the liners...only had minimal rubbing on them. I did want to address bottoming out of the front tires on the frame/brackets under the fenders and bending the body by the frame where the fender clips attach. There's a pic of it in my previous post.

In regards to long arms, dont think that will help the rubbing and I'm happy with the ride and flex with the regular adjustable arms. I need wheels with backspacing of 4.5 or less, but dont want to spend the $...adding a puck to the bumpstops should help for now. I dont want to spend the funds to go to long arms when other mods would help more at this point...looking seriously at regearing to 4.88 or 5.13. I plan on staying on 37s/38s long term and would do 4.88 if I knew it will allow the jeep to crawl steep ledges without stalling. I've been stalling on steeper stuff with 4.10s and the 4:1 transfer case pushing 37s. 6th gear is useless and 5th gear only holds 70mph on flat highway. Mainly stay in 4th gear when going 70mph on the hwy. I'm hesitant about going 5.13 bc I wonder if it slows you down wheelin in 4low driving between obstacles and your having to ride around in 4th or 5th in 4wd low or shift to 4wd high. Seems like it could get cumbersome...it's only 5% deeper than 4.88 and probably not a big deal. Wish I could drive a manual jlU on 37s with 4.88 or 5.13.:flag:
 
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Ordered.

At that price, it can be replaced several times before I would spent ARB money.

Still have to grab the bag when I go wheeling and it won’t always be there but it has to be lighter than the tank.
Good buy...you'll like it. It only weighs about 15lbs and packs well in the carry bag. I keep mine in the jeep in the cargo area. Will prob rig up a holding strap tied to the back of the rear seat to keep it from moving. It's slightly too big to fit under the rear seat.
 

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Wish I could drive a manual jlU on 37s with 4.88 or 5.13.:flag:
Same.

Still, I'm 90% sure I'm going to jump to 5.13's for my little manual. I want that extra torque while off road and even bouncing from light to light.

I don't think it'll add too much drama to the shifting other than being one gear higher than you would use now.

I may jump to a true 35" next time. :rock::CWL:
 
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Same.

Still, I'm 90% sure I'm going to jump to 5.13's for my little manual. I want that extra torque while off road and even bouncing from light to light.

I don't think it'll add too much drama to the shifting other than being one gear higher than you would use now.

I may jump to a true 35" next time. :rock::CWL:
Is it your daily driver? Do you do a decent amount of HWY driving? I imagine 5.13 with 35s would be stout on a lightweight 2 door.(even at Colorado elevations) I bet it would run around 2600-2700rpm in 6th at 70mph....have you considered 4.88 with 35s?
 

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Is it your daily driver? Do you do a decent amount of HWY driving? I imagine 5.13 with 35s would be stout on a lightweight 2 door.(even at Colorado elevations) I bet it would run around 2600-2700rpm in 6th at 70mph....have you considered 4.88 with 35s?
The Jeep is my daily driver and 4.88's was my first choice. I've steadily been thinking to go a bit deeper for climb ability. A couple hundred rpm will not overly stress this engine. It likes to spin up.
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