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Billet Stallion- Sport S Full D44 Swap

Creeker

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My $0.15 worth.
The Stock Rubicon D44 has some weakness issues due to the FAD.
My D44 has the Artec truss system that was put on by a very good shop (Stacked Off Road).
Like anything else, if the welding is done properly (e.g., right weld settings, take you time, don't weld too much at any one time, etc.), the issues with installing trusses can be avoided.
Of course one can break any axle (e.g., D44, UD44, D60) by going crazy and doing stupid stuff.

ChattVol's rig is amazing and he drives this rig off road very well.



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ChattVol

ChattVol

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Ya someone was just telling me to plan for 40” tires, which means d60’s. I know that regearing will help but I don’t wanna stress the engine too much. Have plans for a hemi swap?
The key seems to be figuring out what tire size you want to run and building to support that AND then having discipline to resist upsizing tires.:lipssealed:

I'd like to regear to 5.13 and stick with 37s on these axles.(possibly run 38s:CWL: down the road) IMHO, a decent driver can do some legit wheelin with a JL locked up on 37s with a 2.5" lift and skids. If I go bigger, costs seem to increase exponentially for axles and other supporting mods. It's simply not worth it to me to realistically spend another $8-12k to gain another 2-3" of clearance running 40s when I have 4 kids and a wife at home to support. If you've got the funds, I say go for it.:jk:
 
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ChattVol

ChattVol

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My $0.15 worth.
The Stock Rubicon D44 has some weakness issues due to the FAD.
My D44 has the Artec truss system that was put on by a very good shop (Stacked Off Road).
Like anything else, if the welding is done properly (e.g., right weld settings, take you time, don't weld too much at any one time, etc.), the issues with installing trusses can be avoided.
Of course one can break any axle (e.g., D44, UD44, D60) by going crazy and doing stupid stuff.

ChattVol's rig is amazing and he drives this rig off road very well.
Good points....thanks for the kind words...your 2 door is incredible. If you've got a stud like Diesel at Stacked Offroad welding on your truss, then I'd have full confidence it was done correctly. :beer:
 
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shadowmoto17

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The key seems to be figuring out what tire size you want to run and building to support that AND then having discipline to resist upsizing tires.:lipssealed:

I'd like to regear to 5.13 and stick with 37s on these axles.(possibly run 38s:CWL: down the road) IMHO, a decent driver can do some legit wheelin with a JL locked up on 37s with a 2.5" lift and skids. If I go bigger, costs seem to increase exponentially for axles and other supporting mods. It's simply not worth it to me to realistically spend another $8-12k to gain another 2-3" of clearance running 40s when I have 4 kids and a wife at home to support. If you've got the funds, I say go for it.:jk:
I have two little ones(1 yr old and soon to be 3 yr old). I’d be happy with 37-38”s, and in ways I wish I sat down I really thought over what I wanted my Jeep too end up like (a stage I’d be happy with for awhile). Some of my upgrades have been good but others like my first set of tires were a waste of money, or doing a 2.5” lift when I went to the 3.5” lift(coils only needed to be swapped out) only months later. If I could go back I would’ve just saved the money that I wasted on tires and the initial lift to get rubicon take off’s axles and just saved money for something else like air lockers. I just upgraded my gears too 4.88 which should last me for a bit. I’m jealous of the 37”s I see others on but I’ll wait till I have the Jeep paid off more before the axles.
 
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ChattVol

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Went riding today with a group of folks on some unique old washed out old mining roads/overgrown trails in Whitwell TN...had some fun obstacles. Had 2 gladiators, 2 jlu's and a stout XJ on 37s & d60s.
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Check out this punk'n jlu on 2.5" lift & 40" stt pros on stock axles with only RCV's in front...4.10 gearing.
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ChattVol

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This may be helpful...I had some heavy tire rubbing at one point in front under chopped fender area on upper body/brackets running 2" bumpstops with 37s on 17x8.5 wheels with 4.75" backspacing. Front shocks extend to 29". I'm learning that slowly test flexing to check for tire clearance with a forklift or on a flex ramp isn't the same as flexing while wheelin in offcamber situations. I think the axle shifts more wheelin drooping one side with longer shocks under faster compression with weight on each corner distributed differently. The front lower bumpstops dont seem to be missing the upper bumpstop pad during compression bc the lined up on a forklift test and on other "flex rocks". I checked that the axles are centered.

My takeaways....I should have listened to @TTEChris and kept the KMC wheels with 3.5 backspacing. He, Metalcloak and Rock Krawler advised that less backspacing is needed to accommodate the axle shifting with longer shocks. If you're running 37s and want to flex alot wheelin...I'd go with wheels backspaced 4.5 or less. Here is the front rubbing:
FgCC5D8.jpg

Below are the rear @Motobilt rear liners...I dont like how they sit lower than the body and angle in reducing clearance. The axles are centered in the wheelwell and 37s rub a decent amount in the rear after only flexing a few times. Definitely couldn't fit 38s...will prob have to cut them. I'm not happy spending $200 on these + 2 coats of paint...Motobilt needs to redesign these.
YwPC9RN.jpg
 
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