Big or Tall JL seat bracket needed

[allhailpoptart]

The seat cushion frame is 68276603AH.

Looks like you can buy it from most Mopar shops online for ~ $160

This listing shows it fits pretty much all JL models: https://www.moparpartssurplus.com/p/jeep__/FRAME-FRONT-SEAT-CUSHION/94851145/68276603AH.html

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[MJHuber]

You will need:

1. Grinder w/ cut off wheel
2. 2 pieces of 1-1/4” diameter 1/8” thick square tubing 5-3/4” long
3. Paint pen
4. Drill with step bit.
5. Tape me
6. 4 grade 8 bolts with washers and lock nuts 3/8” diameter x 3/4” long. If you can’t find 3/4” bolts but 1” and cut them.
7. Blue loctite
8. Black spray paint

Note: I made the tubing I installed 5-1/2” long and it’s a little short but works fine. The tubing pictured loose is 6” long which is a bit to much. 5-3/4” should be perfect.
​

Step 1:​

Remove the drivers seat. You can use the bit from the hardtop tool kit. There will be 2 wiring harnesses that must be unhooked. It will come out of the Jeep easier if you lean the seat up and lower the head rest.​

​

Step2:​

Use the grinder and cutoff wheel to remove the back brackets. Put the cutoff wheel in the seam between the rail and the bracket to cut the weld. Careful not to cut into the rail. Once removed, paint the bottom of the rail with the black paint to touch up grinding marks.​

Step 3:​

Take your pieces of square tubing and mark the holes for bolting to the rail using the paint pen. There is a small metal stop/post sticking down just butt the tubing up to it and mark your holes.​

​

Step 4:​

Drill the holes for the rail with the step bit. You will need to make the holes slightly bigger than 3/8”.​

Step 5: see pics​

Measure exactly 3-7/16” from the inside hole toward the back. Use the step bit to drill down from the side with the holes you drilled in previous step. As you drill down the bit will open up the top hole and start to drill the bottom hole. You’ll need to open the top hole large enough for the factory bolt head to pass through. Finish drilling the bottom hole for factory bolt. Paint the tubing with black paint.​

.

​

Step 6:​

Install the tubing to the seat rail with grade 8 bolts. Install loose, you will tighten once inside the Jeep.​

Step 7:​

You will need to remove the ground wire and relocate it. I used the bolt under console. Cut off the bolt.​

Step 8:​

Not sure if this is necessary but I did it. I hammered down the bump where the front right seat bolt goes. It is normally at an angle toward the front. I made it so that the bolt hole is flat so the bolt would go in straight.​

Step 9:​

Install the seat in the Jeep and start the front bolts with blue loctite. Start the back bolts with blue loctite.​

Step 10:​

Tighten the grade 8 bolts first with 9/16” socket and wrench. This is tricky because you have to use the box end of the wrench to hold nuts inside tubing and tighten bolts on top side of the rail.​

Step 11:​

Tighten the front mounting bolts. Then tighten the back mounting bolts.​

Step 12:​

Make sure seat slides back and forth and reinstall wiring harnesses.​

Did you have any issue with your new lowered seat rail squishing the plastic cover for the wire harness?

 

[LDJD79]

Did you have any issue with your new lowered seat rail squishing the plastic cover for the wire harness?

I don’t think it’s an issue. I am pretty sure rail is resting on top of it, but it had the hard plastic cover over all the wires so I wasn’t overly concerned about it. I can check later this afternoon and see if I can get a picture.

 

[LDJD79]

Did you have any issue with your new lowered seat rail squishing the plastic cover for the wire harness?

Here’s the best I could do for pics. It is definitely setting on the hard plastic cover on the console side of the rail, but isn’t crushing or even deforming it in any way.

 

[MJHuber]

Here’s the best I could do for pics. It is definitely setting on the hard plastic cover on the console side of the rail, but isn’t crushing or even deforming it in any way.

That looks pretty good, did you raise the front rail connection at all and did you have to beat down the floor at all?

 

[LDJD79]

That looks pretty good, did you raise the front rail connection at all and did you have to beat down the floor at all?

The console side front rail mounting bolt hole is angled towards the front of the Jeep. I hammered that side so that the mounting hole was straight up and down so when I installed the bolt it would go straight in. I did nothing to the door side rail front mount. I didn’t raise either side.

 

[bigfoot21075]

Here’s the best I could do for pics. It is definitely setting on the hard plastic cover on the console side of the rail, but isn’t crushing or even deforming it in any way.

Do you feel this modification has raised your seat any or is it not perceptible? THANKS!

 

[LDJD79]

Do you feel this modification has raised your seat any or is it not perceptible? THANKS!

No it didn’t raise it any and feels like I lowered it 2”. It’s night and day. I used to look out the top of the windshield and the top tit on my ball cap was hitting the roll bar. Now I look out the center of the windshield and have a 2 finger gap between my head and the roll bar.

 

[Kcd]

I don’t think you can get a full two inches, because the tunnel intrudes so much on the inboard side of the driver’s seat. I guess FCA doesn’t car much about taller drivers.

I’m only 6’3. My head clears the sound bar with almost an inch to spare, but my brother is 6’5” and long-waisted, so his torso is over 2” longer than mine. He couldn’t drive the wrangler and wasn’t going to buy one until he found a guy who could modify his seats. They were able to drop his seat more than n inch and a half. It made the difference.

You will need:

1. Grinder w/ cut off wheel
2. 2 pieces of 1-1/4” diameter 1/8” thick square tubing 5-3/4” long
3. Paint pen
4. Drill with step bit.
5. Tape me
6. 4 grade 8 bolts with washers and lock nuts 3/8” diameter x 3/4” long. If you can’t find 3/4” bolts but 1” and cut them.
7. Blue loctite
8. Black spray paint

Note: I made the tubing I installed 5-1/2” long and it’s a little short but works fine. The tubing pictured loose is 6” long which is a bit to much. 5-3/4” should be perfect.​

​

Step 1:​

Remove the drivers seat. You can use the bit from the hardtop tool kit. There will be 2 wiring harnesses that must be unhooked. It will come out of the Jeep easier if you lean the seat up and lower the head rest.​

​

Step2:​

Use the grinder and cutoff wheel to remove the back brackets. Put the cutoff wheel in the seam between the rail and the bracket to cut the weld. Careful not to cut into the rail. Once removed, paint the bottom of the rail with the black paint to touch up grinding marks.​

​

Step 3:​

Take your pieces of square tubing and mark the holes for bolting to the rail using the paint pen. There is a small metal stop/post sticking down just butt the tubing up to it and mark your holes.​

​

​

Step 4:​

Drill the holes for the rail with the step bit. You will need to make the holes slightly bigger than 3/8”.​

​

Step 5: see pics​

Measure exactly 3-7/16” from the inside hole toward the back. Use the step bit to drill down from the side with the holes you drilled in previous step. As you drill down the bit will open up the top hole and start to drill the bottom hole. You’ll need to open the top hole large enough for the factory bolt head to pass through. Finish drilling the bottom hole for factory bolt. Paint the tubing with black paint.​

.

​

Step 6:​

Install the tubing to the seat rail with grade 8 bolts. Install loose, you will tighten once inside the Jeep.​

​

Step 7:​

You will need to remove the ground wire and relocate it. I used the bolt under console. Cut off the bolt.​

​

Step 8:​

Not sure if this is necessary but I did it. I hammered down the bump where the front right seat bolt goes. It is normally at an angle toward the front. I made it so that the bolt hole is flat so the bolt would go in straight.​

​

Step 9:​

Install the seat in the Jeep and start the front bolts with blue loctite. Start the back bolts with blue loctite.​

​

Step 10:​

Tighten the grade 8 bolts first with 9/16” socket and wrench. This is tricky because you have to use the box end of the wrench to hold nuts inside tubing and tighten bolts on top side of the rail.​

​

Step 11:​

Tighten the front mounting bolts. Then tighten the back mounting bolts.​

​

Step 12:​

Make sure seat slides back and forth and reinstall wiring harnesses.​

Has anyone tried this mod on a 2 door JL. I am thinking it should work as the only change between the 2 door and 4 door is the flip up seat on the 2 door.

Signed, Jammed up 6’6”‘er

 

[bigfoot21075]

I just finished this. I could do it much better the 2nd time of course THANKS to all the GREAT information on this post. This mod will not work without additional fabrication IF you also want to use the Misch Big Boy seat travel extender. As it turns out, I did not need that piece after all as making this modification gave me the knee room I so desperately needed.

I ALSO cut off the seat height adjustment stop tooth that is on the rear back of the seat, that gave me MORE than enough room head room, I am now under the sound bar and the seat is not even all the way down with both modifications.

I used 1 1/4" square tubing but ended up shimming it to 1 3/4" in the end as the seat bottom angle was just too much for my fused together back. I could probably even go with 2" square tube with the seat lowering mechanism modification. That made a surprisingly large difference.

IF you happen to accidently crush the yellow air bag connector with the seat (if it HAPPENS to slip out of your hand and land on it) fear not that is an easy fix. You can buy the connector itself if you want for $96.00, but then you have to repin it OR you can just by both the seat harness and the floor harness for the air bag connector for $53.00 (go figure) and cut out what you want and splice it back in to your harness easy peasey.

Part numbers were very hard to find but here they are;

Floor Harness - 68310653-AE wiring.
Seat Harness - 68321129-AE wiring.

This is the single BEST modification could do to this Jeep as it was not livable before, BUT I knew that when I ordered it.

2021 JLUR

 

[allhailpoptart]

Has anyone tried this mod on a 2 door JL. I am thinking it should work as the only change between the 2 door and 4 door is the flip up seat on the 2 door.

Signed, Jammed up 6’6”‘er

Yes. I did this in my 2018 2 door and it's the same basic procedure. My seat rails were ever so slightly different than the pictures here (the stamped hole pattern was different) but 99.9% of it was the same.

While the seat was out I too opted to grind down the vertical adjustment stop to buy a little extra clearance and I no longer feel cramped while driving. Before this I was sitting so high I couldn't look to the right out the windshield without ducking to see below the rear view mirror.

I can also confirm that when you adjust the seat height back up for shorter folks it levels out a bit and the rearward rake is not as noticeable.

 

[Kcd]

Yes. I did this in my 2018 2 door and it's the same basic procedure. My seat rails were ever so slightly different than the pictures here (the stamped hole pattern was different) but 99.9% of it was the same.

While the seat was out I too opted to grind down the vertical adjustment stop to buy a little extra clearance and I no longer feel cramped while driving. Before this I was sitting so high I couldn't look to the right out the windshield without ducking to see below the rear view mirror.

I can also confirm that when you adjust the seat height back up for shorter folks it levels out a bit and the rearward rake is not as noticeable.

You wouldn't happen to have a pic of the vertical adjustment stop would you. The seat is currently at the dealer because the flip function is locked up in the flipped forward position, which makes it really hard to drive.

 

[allhailpoptart]

You wouldn't happen to have a pic of the vertical adjustment stop would you. The seat is currently at the dealer because the flip function is locked up in the flipped forward position, which makes it really hard to drive.

I didn't snap any while mine was out. There was a great photo in this thread but it looks like the author has deleted his comments and pictures unfortunately.

 

[bigfoot21075]

I didn't snap any while mine was out. There was a great photo in this thread but it looks like the author has deleted his comments and pictures unfortunately.

I used the same pic, when you have your seat out and upside down, use the lever and raise the seat while you are looking at the drivers rear side of the under part of the seat and you will clearly see it. It is just a very large flat cast instead of a gear tooth like the others, I ground it into a gear tooth but most just take it off totally and it works GREAT!

 

[Kcd]

I used the same pic, when you have your seat out and upside down, use the lever and raise the seat while you are looking at the drivers rear side of the under part of the seat and you will clearly see it. It is just a very large flat cast instead of a gear tooth like the others, I ground it into a gear tooth but most just take it off totally and it works GREAT!

Will do thanks all!

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