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BEWARE*** Jeep voided warranty claim and voided remaining factory warranty BEWARE***

Zandcwhite

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I didn't take the time to read the entire thread to see OP has tons.

Deleting fad can absolutely destroy a t case If you don't adjust your pinion angle properly, and your driveshaft is spinning all of the time, it will vibrate until either the DS gives out or the tcase.

I retained my fad when I went to rcvs so I could run an optimal castor angle, which makes my Jeep drive better than any xj, tj, or jk I have ever owned. My pinion angle is so off now that if I didn't have fad I'm positive I would have a lot of vibration up.

I'm sure youre already aware of what I just pointed out, but I felt the need to respond to your post so others would understand what my point was.
Assuming the aftermarket front driveshaft is a double cardan style and balanced properly the tons should be set up so the output points at the t-case when the caster is properly set as it should. Being it is probably a high pinion 60, it's far less of an issue than trying to keep the stock 44 happy with a FAD delete, enough lift to clear 40's, and proper caster.
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Chance_P

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Assuming the aftermarket front driveshaft is a double cardan style and balanced properly the tons should be set up so the output points at the t-case when the caster is properly set as it should. Being it is probably a high pinion 60, it's far less of an issue than trying to keep the stock 44 happy with a FAD delete, enough lift to clear 40's, and proper caster.
Yep, if everything is set up properly, then things will be fine, agreed.

I still stand by my point that no fad + improper DS angles can make a tcase go boom.

Im wondering what it was about OP's setup that wasn't correct, and led to his tcase failing. Did he say he had a HP60 and that he has DC DS?

I wouldn't expect a dealer to warranty my tcase with my modified 44's and aftermarket DS. That's just me though.
 

Zandcwhite

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Yep, if everything is set up properly, then things will be fine, agreed.

I still stand by my point that no fad + improper DS angles can make a tcase go boom.

Im wondering what it was about OP's setup that wasn't correct, and led to his tcase failing. Did he say he had a HP60 and that he has DC DS?

I wouldn't expect a dealer to warranty my tcase with my modified 44's and aftermarket DS. That's just me though.
With the location his tcase failed, I'd bet it was the pump. Typically if it's front shaft related it breaks on the drivers side not at the center.
 

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I know a guy in ID that has a heavily modified Tacoma. He was within warranty and the Toyota dealer spend approximately $15k troubleshooting and resolving a problem he had. If it had been something related to his mods they wouldn’t have done it under warranty but it was discussed and determined it was not due to mods. That’s one of the reasons I’m a toyota fan boy. I was given a free MOPAR 100k bumper to bumper $100 deductible warranty for all the crap I went through. I’m afraid it’s useless now with 2.5” lift and 37s.
 

COJeeper

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There should be an insurance plan where you can get paid for any/all repairs to your vehicle. Everyone pays in based on modifications and the percentage chance of something breaking. You submit all modifications to the company and then they charge based on those mods. Sure it’s money out of our pocket but might be worth it for peace of mind. I wonder if a company like that could be profitable. Even covers something breaking on a trail. Not cosmetic though. I guess someone could scam and if they got a dent in the door, smash it with a sledgehammer until it fell off. However, that would be insurance fraud and an inspector could maybe determine that?
 

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3TV

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There should be an insurance plan where you can get paid for any/all repairs to your vehicle. Everyone pays in based on modifications and the percentage chance of something breaking. You submit all modifications to the company and then they charge based on those mods. Sure it’s money out of our pocket but might be worth it for peace of mind. I wonder if a company like that could be profitable. Even covers something breaking on a trail. Not cosmetic though. I guess someone could scam and if they got a dent in the door, smash it with a sledgehammer until it fell off. However, that would be insurance fraud and an inspector could maybe determine that?
Of all the possible mods on a vehicle, it is the loose nut behind the steering wheel that is most likely to cause damage. How could that mod be quantified? Face it, some people could break an anvil.
 

MountainRigged

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There should be an insurance plan where you can get paid for any/all repairs to your vehicle. Everyone pays in based on modifications and the percentage chance of something breaking. You submit all modifications to the company and then they charge based on those mods. Sure it’s money out of our pocket but might be worth it for peace of mind. I wonder if a company like that could be profitable. Even covers something breaking on a trail. Not cosmetic though. I guess someone could scam and if they got a dent in the door, smash it with a sledgehammer until it fell off. However, that would be insurance fraud and an inspector could maybe determine that?
There is already insurance like that but it doesn't go that far in depth.
 

pnut

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BUYER BEWARE. Memorial day weekend my 2021 JLU blew the transfer case on my way to work. driving on the FWY at 70 mph. Service 4wd light came on and then started to shutter then now power. pulled over and looked the transfer case was pouring gear oil out. called roadside for a tow and brought vehicle home because the dealerships were closed. got underneath to see what happened and there is a hole in the case. brought to dealership after sitting for a week, inspector came out and flagged my jeep and voided the factory warranty with under 25k on the JEEP!!! Because they have flagged the Jeep the MAX care warranty I purchased is useless now also. The Jeep is modified with coil overs and tons and on 37's. spoke with Jeep Cares( they dont!) and they said that ANY modifications outside of the factory allowed will void all warranties. This will be my last Jeep ever. In 2 years of ownership I have had nothing but issues with this POS.
I have owned 5 other jeeps and 4 being JK"S and have never had the issues I have had with this POS.

My next move is to get ahold of the BBB and file a complaint along with the State attorney general to file a Lemon law case. Still waiting on the HPFP recall that they have no parts or time frame for. Time to Lawyer up!!

Just thought I would share my experience with Jeep and the crap product and customer service they provide and to let you all know that if they send an inspector out to look at your Jeep and it's modified your warranties are done!!!
It seems unreasonable for Jeep to cover the transfer case under warranty, when you put one tons and 37s under it.

If you put half doors on and they denied it that would be unreasonable. But in your first post describing the situation, the facts point to that there is a direct correlation to the failure and the mods.
 

Electrified

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Big difference is this guy actually spent $35k at NR.

For real though, OP is at least owed an explanation of what they think happened to the case, we all know he was forced to pay the fucking “diagnostic fee”. If everything’s installed correctly, it’s not like anything he did should cause the case to grenade.
Might want to go back and read that thread. OP spent $600 on an ARB setup but said he had $35K he planned to spend on his Jeep.
 

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Read the warranties - you can install a MOPAR lift kit in your jeep yourself and the thing is still covered, including the lift kit.
Not really. It depends on the dealer.

My dealer installed a Mopar lift on my 2018 Sahara. Two weeks later it refused to do the steering box TSB because...are you sitting down... "the Jeep has been modified..."!

I reminded them that THEY had sold me and installed the warranty. It didn't matter. They said I needed to bring my Jeep back to factory spec before they could touch it.

This wasn't my first run-in on warranty issues with them. They are a bunch of sons of bitches. That's all there is to it.

The sad reality is that Stellantis, Jeep and their dealers are delighted to sell us these expensive vehicles and all these accessories. But they are increasingly clamping down on the mods allowed when it comes time to honor the warranty.

Vehicles are becoming too complex, and problems too difficult to diagnose and repair. Stellantis has to approve all warranty work. They tell the dealer how many hours a job takes, and the dealer gets paid half their normal labor rates. To add insult to injury, Stellantis does NOT pay the dealer for the time they spend diagnosing the problem.

Many dealers do not see the incentive of doing warranty work any more, and actively tell customers to take a hike for any little reason.

Buying Mopar parts and accessories used to mean they were covered by the warranty. But that is not the case any more. Any modification, Mopar or not, only makes the dealer's task of diagnosing and repairing the problem more difficult.

If your dealer still honors the warranty on your heavily modified Jeep, consider yourself very lucky. It is not the norm any more.
 

Yellow Cake Kid

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Assuming the aftermarket front driveshaft is a double cardan style and balanced properly the tons should be set up...
A typical double cardan driveshaft is not a true constant velocity driveshaft. You would need a double double Cardan to emulate the motion of a constant velocity driveshaft.

When the transfer case is driving a double Cardan driveshaft in 4wd the output from the transfer case to the drive shaft is phase canceled by the double Cardan to produce a constant velocity motion along the shaft, but the input into the front differential is accelerating, and decelerating due to the single Cardan mechanism. This is somewhat buffered by the differential mechanism and everything works ok.

When the front wheels are driving the driveshaft because it is disengaged at the transfer case and the front wheels are coasting along in 2H on the highway, the driveshaft is being powered by a surging cycle of acceleration and deceleration caused by the single Cardan, and that surging motion is then accurately transferred into the transfer case via the "double Cardan".

Yes, millions of miles have been logged without issue, but many of those miles were driven in JKs with true CV driveshafts. A lot of Jeeps with one-ton 60's upgrades use locking hubs which are driven unlocked while in cruising the highway in 2 Hi.

Most of the tons I see are brought to town on trailers behind trucks that get 8mpg. Hub lockers were once advertised to save gas, but guys I know don't run hub lockers on their 60's to save gas money, they do it because it helps to avoid sending a pulsing force into the transfer case.

Yes, I get that the primary mechanical connection between the front and rear drives is intended to be disengaged in a chain-driven transfer case when driving in 2 hi. Nevertheless, there have been many instances where driving the latest version of the Magna cases at hi speed in 2 Hi without some form of front wheel disconnect has caused trouble for folks that stumbled into that combination of features.

Additionally on the JL series you need to successfully hack the software, with a TAZER or the like, to make sure the Jeep knows what position the transfer case and lockers are in. What could go wrong with that?

I'm not going to pretend I know specifically why the breakage happens, but have observed a consistent set of circumstances that serve as a prelude to the breakage.

If/When I delete the FAD on my JL, I'm going to have a solid plan.

Good luck!
 
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Zandcwhite

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A typical double cardan driveshaft is not a true constant velocity driveshaft. You would need a double double Cardan to emulate the motion of a constant velocity driveshaft.

When the transfer case is driving a double Cardan driveshaft in 4wd the output from the transfer case to the drive shaft is phase canceled by the double Cardan to produce a constant velocity motion along the shaft, but the input into the front differential is accelerating, and decelerating due to the single Cardan mechanism. This is somewhat buffered by the differential mechanism and everything works ok.

When the front wheels are driving the driveshaft because it is disengaged at the transfer case and the front wheels are coasting along in 2H on the highway, the driveshaft is being powered by a surging cycle of acceleration and deceleration caused by the single Cardan, and that surging motion is then accurately transferred into the transfer case via the "double Cardan".

Yes, millions of miles have been logged without issue, but many of those miles were driven in JKs with true CV driveshafts. A lot of Jeeps with one-ton 60's upgrades use locking hubs which are driven unlocked while in cruising the highway in 2 Hi.

Most of the tons I see are brought to town on trailers behind trucks that get 8mpg. Hub lockers were once advertised to save gas, but guys don't run hub lockers on their 60's to save gas money, they do it because it helps to avoid sending a pulsing force into the transfer case.

Yes, I get that the primary mechanical connection between the front and rear drives is intended to be disengaged in a chain-driven transfer case when driving in 2 hi. Nevertheless, there have been many instances where driving the latest version of the Magna cases at hi speed in 2 Hi without some form of front wheel disconnect has caused trouble for folks that stumbled into that combination of features.

Additionally on the JL series you need to successfully hack the software, with a TAZER or the like, to make sure the Jeep knows what position the transfer case and lockers are in. What could go wrong with that?

I'm not going to pretend I know specifically why the breakage happens, but have observed a consistent set of circumstances that serve as a prelude to the breakage.

If/When I delete the FAD on my JL, I'm going to have a solid plan.

Good luck!
I wonder what style front drive shaft came on all those ZJs, WJs, TJs, and XJs? Even if your theory held any weight, the transfer case would break on the drivers/front output if it was caused by the front driveshaft. The "latest version of the magna case" is no different in design or function to the np231/241 in all those other vehicles. Thousands of fad deletes are out there, and yet the number of exploded cases seems extremely low by comparison? I'd bet the odds are better that the pickup tube for the pump is popping out from hard use and that is the cause of the failures as I've seen that a few times over the years.
 

dragoneggs

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bought the tons to fix the locker issues and by passfix that didn't fix anything. and yes now it'll get and Atlas. because why would I put in a product that already failed . once all the jeep shit is gone it'll be bullet proof (right) .. fact of the matter is FCA fucked up a decent product that was off road capable and made it into a foreign POS. I use my jeep it's not a mall crawler . the reality of this is that Jeep no longer makes a vehicle you can wheel and expect to drive home reliably. I didn't come on here for no other reason than to let others know that what they thought was warrantied will probably no longer be as i was told by Jeep cares. Any repairs over $ 2500 require a inspection once inspector comes out they will void the claim and warranties effected by issue. the dealership didn't even pull anything apart. but rather ran the codes and filed a claim. no actual work was done to the jeep so they have no idea on what the actual reason for the failure was...

97A6FDBE-331E-49C6-B646-958D03CB5130.jpeg
You originally said you hadn’t been off-road since October IIRC, now you say you ‘I use my Jeep, it’s not a mall crawler’. I‘m getting confused.
 

Pig-Pen

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Waiting for the the thread where someone says dealer voided the warranty on their stock XR because it has 35s
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