Best way to check for rear sway bar end link interference?

[SlickRickMotoADV]

I have a Sahara JLU with an OME 2" lift kit running Rubicon OEM wheels w/ 33" MTs.
When shopping for lifts, I was set on AEV, until I learned that it would require new lower offset wheels or spacers (there is no reality where I will ever run spacers). When calling OME to discuss, they stated that they work with all forms of stock wheels/axles, which is why I chose OME.

When I installed the lift, I don't think I heard any issues out back, but my rear sway bar was tilted too far down for my liking.

To remedy this, I installed the Synergy rear sway bar drop brackets that drop the rear sway bar 1.5". You'll see this in the attached pics.

I now hear some noise that could be contact of the endlink, when going over bumps that hit a single rear corner. At rest, the endlink is definitely close to the control arm bracket, but does no contact when I jack up one side (either) from under the spring perch, nor does it contact when jacking it up from the diff skid, allowing full droop for both sides.

obviously if I'm hearing contact (supposedly) from big road imperfections on one side, that would be under compression not droop. My jack/stands don't have the height range required to attempt to drive a rear wheel onto the jack and compress it. I did that best I could, and see no contact.

One would think with the drop brackets installed that I would have LESS chance of this happening, not more.

There does not appear to be any contact on the shocks themselves.

Any thoughts as to what this might be? All pics attached are at rest on flat ground. Please let me know if any other videos or pictures would help.

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[SlickRickMotoADV]

Called OME again to verify that indeed they do not need aftermarket low offset wheels for their kit. If anything, they said it would be the endlink hitting the control arm bracket. I wonder if the Synergy drop brackets might not be "enough" to gain the desired top endlink mounting location without the use of adjustable endlinks. OME seems to think that adjustable endlinks might be the way out of this, but I'm interested to hear what you all have to say, as those are quite expensive vs the $55 bracket from Synergy.

 

[JEEP4U]

Sorry, no experience with Synergy fixed drop blocks.......I would of went with the adjustable swaybar links.

 

[SlickRickMotoADV]

Sorry, no experience with Synergy fixed drop blocks.......I would of went with the adjustable swaybar links.

They effectively raise the sway bar back to horizontal, which is what most people say is ideal geometry. This can also be achieved with adjustable endlinks. I'm just suspicious that the adjustable links might not help. Do adjustable endlinks provide more clearance between the endlink itself and the control arm bracket? Since I started hearing the supposed contact AFTER adding the drop brackets, wouldn't longer endlinks just push it even further in the direction of the control arm bracket?

 

[JEEP4U]

I agree with bringing the swarbar back to horizontal. But placing the block or dropping the entire swaybar changes the arc or travel in relation to the distance from the axle.

 

[GATORB8]

Do you have ramps? If you drive opposing corners on them at the same time (front driver + rear passenger) it helps get better compression. Similar to the Metalcloak CTI trailer.

 

[SlickRickMotoADV]

Do you have ramps? If you drive opposing corners on them at the same time (front driver + rear passenger) it helps get better compression. Similar to the Metalcloak CTI trailer.

No ramps
Hitting myself for not going to the CTI event last weekend.

 

[Roky]

No ramps
Hitting myself for not going to the CTI event last weekend.

How much did you lift it, and are those the factory sway links ?

 

[SlickRickMotoADV]

How much did you lift it, and are those the factory sway links ?

2" and yes factory links with the Synergy drop sway bar drop brackets. The sway bar now sits horizontal as it should.

I've opened up to the idea of spacers, but only if I can somehow confirm that the links aren't hitting the control arm bracket, which I suspect is the case.

 

[Roky]

2" and yes factory links with the Synergy drop sway bar drop brackets. The sway bar now sits horizontal as it should.

I've opened up to the idea of spacers, but only if I can somehow confirm that the links aren't hitting the control arm bracket, which I suspect is the case.

You need to raise the end of the sway bar to match the lift, so it gets farther away from the axle, instead of lowering rear of bar down. You have a greater range of motion now, and you need to get the end link connection away from the axle. If in fact the noise is coming from here as you suspect, then ditch the drop blocks and get adjustable links and raise the sway bar to slightly up at the connection……similar to pic….

 

[SlickRickMotoADV]

You need to raise the end of the sway bar to match the lift, so it gets farther away from the axle, instead of lowering rear of bar down. You have a greater range of motion now, and you need to get the end link connection away from the axle. If in fact the noise is coming from here as you suspect, then ditch the drop blocks and get adjustable links and raise the sway bar to slightly up at the connection……similar to pic….

Yep that's what ARB recommended as well. I was hesitant to get the adjustable endlinks before giving the brackets a try. Good thing I got them 50% off.

What's the most affordable quality adjustable rear out there? Not looking for rough country, but not looking for $$$$ either.

I really wish I could figure out if it was the wheel or control arm bracket that's making the noise.

I'm going to have my gf walk behind the jeep later and watch/listen, but I doubt I can go fast enough over imperfections for her to be able to see anything.

 

[Yellow Cake Kid]

The sway bar does not care if it is level, as long as it does not flip from getting dragged to low, or bash into the under carriage from being pushed to high. The sway bar cares about the difference in torsional force applied at either end. Having said that, I would prioritize what ever it takes to move freely with out causing trouble. The super short OEM links are going to lean at exaggerated angles compared to any relatively longer links when the links need to accommodate the stuff/droop movements. You will probably have to observe the motion first hand rather than second guess what is happening. Jack up one corner on the axle and see what is happening down there.

Good luck!

 

[SlickRickMotoADV]

The sway bar does not care if it is level, as long as it does not flip from getting dragged to low, or bash into the under carriage from being pushed to high. The sway bar cares about the difference in torsional force applied at either end. Having said that, I would prioritize what ever it takes to move freely with out causing trouble. The super short OEM links are going to lean at greater angles than a relatively longer link will to accommodate the stuff/droop movements. You will probably have to observe the motion first hand rather than second guess what is happening. Jack up one corner on the axle and see what is happening down there.

Good luck!

I did exactly that, and there's no contact. It only happens with road forces; I can't replicate any contact with my jack.

I wonder what the real use case for these brackets are if one would still need adjustable endlinks anyways.

 

[Roky]

Yep that's what ARB recommended as well. I was hesitant to get the adjustable endlinks before giving the brackets a try. Good thing I got them 50% off.

What's the most affordable quality adjustable rear out there? Not looking for rough country, but not looking for $$$$ either.

I really wish I could figure out if it was the wheel or control arm bracket that's making the noise.

I'm going to have my gf walk behind the jeep later and watch/listen, but I doubt I can go fast enough over imperfections for her to be able to see anything.

Yeah, definitely confirm the source…… I recommend synergy links, NR4x4 has them for 115.00, but use coupon code sharktank and they’re 105.00 ish. You’re gonna pay a hundred bucks for most that are worth their salt unfortunately……

 

[SlickRickMotoADV]

I just called Synergy to ask about the drop brackets vs adjustable endlinks. They said for a 2" lift, the drop brackets should be fine.

They asked if I had an adjustable track bar in the rear, which I do not. I asked them what side will the axle shift to if I didn't have that, and they said driver side, which is where my slight contact is. They recommended getting an adjustable rear track bar or track bar relocation/lift bracket to compensate : https://www.synergymfg.com/synergy-jeep-jl-jlu-rear-track-bar-relocation-bracket.html or https://www.synergymfg.com/synergy-jeep-jl-hd-adjustable-rear-track-bar.html

Both of those parts state minimum 2" bumpstop required, but I've only extended it 1" as per ARB/OME. Will this be an issue?

The contact is so light that most probably would just ignore it. Synergy is damn near certain it's not wheel contact, since I would have heard grinding (wheel moving across the endlink) instead of a single thump.

I guess it would make sense in that regard. Visually, my axle appears centered, but maybe it's shifted JUST enough to have the driver side endlink contact something?

I'm going to go out and measure some hard points on the axle vs the frame to confirm it shifted over.

If that's the case, what would you all recommend? Track bar vs relocation bracket vs adjustable endlinks...
Open to getting multiple things if needed, but trying to keep this as cheap as possible. I'm not sure why I thought endlinks were like $300 a pair. $100 isn't that bad.

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