Thank you for explaining what I already knew. Why is it that you assume no one is as smart as you? (and heaven forbid, someone might be smarter than you!)I guess you need it explained in ELEMENTARY terms.
For example my 2017 Fleetwood Bounder 35K on the F53 Chassis has a GVWR of 22,000 lbs (that is the max I can load it to which is not hard to do if wet), the GCWR is 26,000 lbs. The Tow rating is 5,000lbs, however there is on only 4,000 lbs between the GVWR and the GCWR. So when the TV is loaded including people gear, tanks you can easily be near at or above the GVWR in that case pretty much all JLU's exceed the two rating of the RV, Those stock tow ratings are a ford rating prior to RV Body and does not take into consideration of RV loading. Another example, of how those tow ratings mean nothing is Thor makes the same floor plan as the Bounder 35K on the exact same chassis although they have only 19" wheels vs the more robust 22" wheels on the Bounder, however the Thor is rated at 8,000 lbs towing, According to the dealers this is only a marketing number as even dry the RV does not have enough GCVW left, in fact even 5000lbs is a stretch for the Thor as well.
The Point is the Published tow rating means absolutely NOTHING as most Gassers after loaded and partially wet with 2-4 people will not have the GCVW left over to legally tow JLU's. When I towed with the Bounder I towed completely dry 1/3 water for emergency, Wranger Fuel less than 1/2 when possible. My Wrangler scaled just over 4900lbs.
You are a fool to think that the GVWR and GCWR are arbitrary numbers and not enforced when needed, or in the event of accidents, While not all vehicles post accident can be weighed many can if it is suspect that there there was loading negligence involved.
There are many factors the Ford f53 Brakes are crap and towing beyond the limits is also stressing them as inertia braking systems only activate in delay and steep down hills that need braking doe speed control inertia brakes have little impact (Sometimes down shifting is not enough when towing a 5000.lb wrangler. Keep in mind my Sahara has 35's and winch and a few other mods. a Rubicon modded can easily be 5500-6500lbs which even exceeds the published hitch ratings.
While I understand those that cannot accept these facts think they are above the law, the Law is starting to crack down. The Salton was a geographical reference I never said it was physically at the lake it was near the lake you are simply splitting hairs.
As for the Maximus I think it is a great tow bar connection I am only suggesting the safety chains be located on a separate piece of metal. I would not expect the Maximus or mist tow plates to failed under normal towing but you in the event of an accident then it is stressed it is intended to keep the toad connected to the TV. Most Tow Bar incidents are likely during accidents.
I just Installed mine on 2020 Wrangler diesel. I drilled right in front of the break pedal per instructions. There is nothing there to damage by drilling. Drilling through the front steel bumper was more tricky.
Thanks! I got mine done today too. As you said, pretty decent area to drill and not hit anything important. I’ll do my test towing tomorrow.
Not great pictures, but hope they help. There are two holes. The one to the left is the breakaway cable. The silver one an inch to the right is for the braking cable. Nothing is tightened down or trimmed in this picture. I'm thinking the bracket is going to slide up the brake peddle arm by about an inch to get past the awkward bend.
On both of our JKs I used a harness that had its own separate bulb sockets that were installed inside the OEM housings. There was no interconnection with the Jeep whatsoever. I got them from REMCO but I suspect they're available elsewhere, or you could make your own. What I don't know is if there's space inside the JL housing.
I know what you are saying, but just to be clear, with our Cool Tech harness, you are not "tapping" into the Jeep's harness with error-prone tap-in splices. Rather, we have you locate the wire supplying power to the rear light that traverses from the front of the Jeep to the rear. We have you cut this wire. Now you have two "ends". One end to the light, and another from the 12v source. You strip each end and crimp into our harness using pre-installed heat-shrink butt connectors. These are the same butt connectors that the OEM would specify to make repairs. After crimping, use a heat gun (or hair dryer) to shrink the protective sleeve and activate the glue. This is now an air-tight, completely waterproof connection..... that is additionally protected because it is on the inside of the Jeep, not the outside. Repeat process for 3 additional wires and you are done.
I was trying to avoid that but I'll take a look at what you guys offer. I've seen the FCA harness and installation looks intensive. I read that it requires a flash of the computer afterwards. at the dealer. Plus the cost....
The issue was about lighting, not about a braking system. I was just trying to avoid cutting and splicing wires. It's not an issue of comfort. I have no issues doing the job I am just hesitant to start cutting wires and such in my new Jeep if there is an option that doesn't require that and costs less. Just looking for options.
How many times have you towed the jeep so far? Has the brake cable cut through the plastic fitting in the bumper yet? Mounted below the level of the tow bar and angled down I don't see how it would not.Not great pictures, but hope they help. There are two holes. The one to the left is the breakaway cable. The silver one an inch to the right is for the braking cable. Nothing is tightened down or trimmed in this picture. I'm thinking the bracket is going to slide up the brake peddle arm by about an inch to get past the awkward bend.
In the bumper photo, you can see I put the brake cable right in the center and the breakaway cable towards the driver's side tow bracket, per instructions.
Be careful drilling the firewall any higher or further towards the accelerator than I did. There are some things you wouldn't want to hit. To the left a hair wouldn't be a bad idea.
I will admit I was hesitant to cut and splice on my new JL as well, then I remembered I did the "cooltech" thing on my CJ 5 about 25 years ago. Maybe they stole my idea lol. Of course it was much simpler, I think there were only 4 wires on the right side of the tub going to the back. Cut the wires added terminals and mounted the 4 pole double throw switch right there in the footwell.
I hear you! I'm still trying to convince Ebay that this sell-by-owner concept was my idea first!
