Best Setup for RV Flat Tow

IslandNomad

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Keep an eye on weight most Motorhome receivers have a 5000lb limit.

My point is if you are running a 6K bar and a 5K receiver limit be careful how you outfit the Rubicon.

My self since I am at my tow limit and I am pulling with a Ford V10 I am adding Banks Power to the RV, this is a must for pulling this kind of weight especially here in the NW with all the hills and passes. The Banks Power will increase your torque and nearly double your 0-60mph, I also just ordered the The Five Star Programmer for the Ford V10 as this will allow you to program the RV specifically for towing and will improve shifting and performance overall these are both a must for Gas Motor homes towing near max. If you are diesel that is s different story.
I am in the same position with a new 2021 Rubicon. I weighed it on a scale last week, and with a full tank of gas and no payload (I stood outside), it weighed in at 4,660 lbs, so I have only a narrow buffer, and still need to add bumper, winch and towing hardware. Definitely something I will have to keep an eye on.

How is the Banks Power working for you?





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IslandNomad

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Since you are going to be pulling near the limits the main RV Mod you want to make is install the Banks Power system which also includes a programmer/tuner to reprogram the shifting, this will also add almost 1 mpg but is also adds valued HP. Note you do not need the option with header, the lower priced exhaust only is sufficient. This is a Must have for towing a Wrangler I was about to install before I decided to sell, however I know several who have it and they all say it is a game changer in terms of performance

https://www.bankspowerproducts.com/Banks-Products-for-GAS-MOTORHOMES-FORD-s/137.htm
Hi lightout, the web site has changed around somewhat. Do you know which product exactly that you bought? This is the current list of products:

https://www.bankspowerproducts.com/...5-17-Ford-6-8L-V10-Class-A-30-valve-s/138.htm
 

IslandNomad

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I needed a 12-volt outlet that was hot while the vehicle is turned off. I decided to wire one to the Aux. 3 switch on my dash and made it useable (via UConnect) while the vehicle is off. The install was super easy with the wiring supplied under the glovebox. I used the ground which is hidden under the plastic trim on the door sill of the back seat.



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Nicely done! I think I am going to borrow your idea. What 12V outlet / socket did you use for this wiring?
 

Oldbear

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I just used the outlet in the rear (by tailgate) with a heavy gauge (14) 12v extension cord. Work great with my RVI3.
 

kosinar

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Nicely done! I think I am going to borrow your idea. What 12V outlet / socket did you use for this wiring?
No special hardware needed to have always ON 12V output. Your 12V socket in the rear of JL Wrangler can be configured to be always on by moving 20A fuse in fuse box from F91 to F81.
 

CoolTech

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Yes, the rear outlet is configurable as noted above. For those that want to make the front outlet always hot, we have an easily installed kit for that HERE.
 

Redbaron73

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Yes, the rear outlet is configurable as noted above. For those that want to make the front outlet always hot, we have an easily installed kit for that HERE.
This kit is simple to install, and works as advertised.
 

hingedthinker

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I had the Mopar flat tow wire harness installed, along with the Mopar towing wire harness (wtf it didn't come with this IDK...), and d-ring adaptors. Falcon2 tow bar setup...

that first pic is of the flat tow harness plugin sitting on top of the frame rail. it came with a automotive connector to 7 pin standard trailer plug so it is super convenient and takes about 5m to hookup flat tow now that I've learned the Shift-N pattern for towing.

IMG_2188.jpeg

IMG_2186.jpeg
 

cphollis

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I just finished spending $$$ to have my 2021 JL 2DR soft top tow vehicle professionally integrated with my Sprinter-based RV. Although the RV is rated for a 5000 lb tow, unless you're paying attention it's easy to exceed both the loaded weight of the RV *and* the loaded weight of the tow vehicle.

A couple of things I learned along the way:
  • Vehicle weight matters. A 2DR soft top weighs considerably less than a 4DR or Gladiator in Rubicon trim, hard top and tons of add-ons. My JL clears the scales at measured 3896 lbs with a half tank of gas. Indeed, vehicle weight drove my selection of that model. Staying 1100 lbs under the limit means I'm asking for less trouble. Although there was no way I was doing a 2800 lb Chevy Spark.

  • Beware "universal fit" brake assists. My dealer went through three of them before they found one that actually fit and had a cabin remote. I wish there was a comprehensive guide somewhere (including the mfrs!) but no such luck.

  • Go with a vehicle-specific base plate. All those aftermarket bumpers with winches look cool, but they're not designed for long-distance towing. You might be OK, but ???

  • Simply making your 12v "hot" doesn't give you a good answer to powering the brake assist and brake lights all day for multiple days. Running a trickle charge from the RV gives you a good answer, though.

  • All the hardware is Blue Ox, including the brake assist. One throat to choke and all of that. It is pricey stuff, but there is no arguing it is well-made and comes with good support.

  • No lecture from me, just a request: tow safe or don't tow. I did not skimp on vehicle, brake assist, safety cables or a breakaway system. Based on what I see, I wish more people thought the same way. It's concerning to pull into a rest stop and see Joe Homegrown's towing rig. At least I know who to stay clear of out on the highway.

  • Pull-through RV spaces are great.
 

IslandNomad

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  • Vehicle weight matters. A 2DR soft top weighs considerably less than a 4DR or Gladiator in Rubicon trim, hard top and tons of add-ons. My JL clears the scales at measured 3896 lbs with a half tank of gas. Indeed, vehicle weight drove my selection of that model. Staying 1100 lbs under the limit means I'm asking for less trouble. Although there was no way I was doing a 2800 lb Chevy Spark.
I am doing the same for my 2021 JLUR 4-door Rubicon with Sky Roof. It weighs in on the scale at 4,660 lbs with a full tank of gas. I have only a small buffer from my 5,000 lb tow rating, so I will have to watch weight very carefully.
 

kevinfloats

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I have a question about the wiring kits.

I ordered a full set of flat tow gear from etrailer (went over it with their customer service team - who is very responsive), including a Roadmaster universal diode wiring kit and separate charge line (total about $100). I see a lot of folks here saying good things about the Mopar tow wiring, but at $500 - its unclear to me what that buys over the Roadmaster wires, other than OEM connectors eliminating the need for splicing? Anybody have any comments about why you chose the Mopar wires?

My Jeep is still on order, so I still have the option to change things up if I made a mistake.
 

Captain Skip

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I have a question about the wiring kits.

I ordered a full set of flat tow gear from etrailer (went over it with their customer service team - who is very responsive), including a Roadmaster universal diode wiring kit and separate charge line (total about $100). I see a lot of folks here saying good things about the Mopar tow wiring, but at $500 - its unclear to me what that buys over the Roadmaster wires, other than OEM connectors eliminating the need for splicing? Anybody have any comments about why you chose the Mopar wires?

My Jeep is still on order, so I still have the option to change things up if I made a mistake.
I put this on my JL - $70 and works perfectly. https://www.amazon.com/CURT-58964-Towed-Vehicle-Harness-Wrangler
 

kevinfloats

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Thanks a lot! This looks great - a lot like what I bought but without the need to splice. I have no problem doing the splicing, but I worry about warranty. This should avoid that (easy to put things back the way they were). Did you consider the MOPAR one? Are there any features the MOPAR one has that these aftermarket ones don't? The MOPAR mentioned integration with the car's computer, but I don't see how that would ever matter...
 

Captain Skip

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Thanks a lot! This looks great - a lot like what I bought but without the need to splice. I have no problem doing the splicing, but I worry about warranty. This should avoid that (easy to put things back the way they were). Did you consider the MOPAR one? Are there any features the MOPAR one has that these aftermarket ones don't? The MOPAR mentioned integration with the car's computer, but I don't see how that would ever matter...
That's the nice thing about the Curt, it's plug and play. Unplug the taillights, plug in the harness and run the wire to the front. I didn't consider the Mopar one...I'm a cheap Yankee! I used the Curt harness on my JK and it was easy to install, worked perfectly and was cheap - compared to Mopar.

Gotta help a fellow New Hampshire citizen out!
 

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