Best offset for Rubicon JL with no lift?

[Sky King]

Hey, I’ve never have been a car guy but now really excited about ordering a Jeep JL Rubicon. However, I’m little confused on the best wheel/tire combination to get the look I want and maintain original handling characteristics. Hoping someone can help me with my concerns. I prefer slightly bigger tires than the stock 33s, that extend modestly beyond the fender; about 1” to 2” looks right to me. I understand lifting comes with ramifications that can effect drivability and will not lift. The Rubicon is already an inch higher and can accommodate a larger tire. I would appreciate some help on the best wheel offset that gives me the sought after look but does not negatively alter handling, put excessive wear on parts and has zero rubbing. I have noticed that just a slight upgrade from stock 33 inch tires is really observable and now focused on Nitto Ridge 295/70r17 tires. I’m looking at three wheels that come in offsets of +25, 0, and -12. The Rubicon comes standard with a +45 wheel offset. I have used https://tiresize.com/wheel-offset-calculator/ to see how far the outer side wall goes out and how much closer the tire gets to the top of the fender with different offsets. I’ve also read mixed things about how far you should drift from the factory offset without a lift. Now the questions. 1). Without lifting is there a more favorable offset to choose where drivability is impaired the least and there is no rubbing? 2) This is kind of an opinion thing, but is there a preference for how far the tire sticks out considering I am not lifting? 3). Are there problems with stones kicking up beyond some point when tires are beyond the fender? I should also mention that I will opt for the heavier steel front and rear bumper. I understand that depresses the body down about ¼ to ½ inch. For the purposes of looks, I ruled out the Nitto 305/70r17 which was the original tire I wanted. I don’t think the extra weight will negatively affect the look on the 295s as much. But if someone can confirm the 305s fit my criteria, appreciate seeing a picture and knowing what wheel offset was used. I hope these questions are understandable and apologize for how basic they may be. Any pictures would be helpful.

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[BlooJLU]

For no to about a 2" lift, the common wheel used is 5.2" backspace on an 8.5" wheel. That is roughly a +10-12mm offset. Most of the big names (AEV, MOPAR, Quadratec, etc) use these dimensions. The logic is it pushes the wheel out to the edge of the fender flare, allows clearance at full articulation, and keeps geometry in check. Hope this helps.

 

[Sky King]

Thanks, I'll look at their wheels. I was partial to the Method 701 which is a zero offset and 4.75 backspace. Now this is all new to me and feel like I understand offset. However, I don't yet grasp backspace and in particular the interplay between that offset. Specifically, how are the dynamics changed when considering two wheels that have the same offset but different backspacing? Do you think the Methods I currently like would not fit correctly and represent a possible problem?

 

[BlooJLU]

the stock JL wheels are approximately 6.125" from the face of the inner hub. I would say that with no lift in your future, to be most concerned with backspacing of both the wheel and with the mounted tire. A 295mm tire is about 0.5" wider total and would be about 0.25" wider from centerline. The odds on rubbing with the stock rim, especially on the street or overlanding, is minimal. As to your choice of wheel, your backspace is static and it's just how much it sticks out. IDK your wheel width but 4.75" backspace is also very common. With D44s you need not worry.

 

[AnnDee4444]

1). Without lifting is there a more favorable offset to choose where drivability is impaired the least and there is no rubbing? 2) This is kind of an opinion thing, but is there a preference for how far the tire sticks out considering I am not lifting? 3). Are there problems with stones kicking up beyond some point when tires are beyond the fender?

1. When you choose less offset, you are also choosing a greater scrub radius. This will increase the tendency for the Jeep to follow grooves & bumps in the road. Tire size is also a factor in scrub radius, and the taller tire will allow for less offset (which is convenient, as you generally need less offset for tire clearance anyway).

For OEM scrub radius on a Rubicon
33" tire baseline, 44mm offset
35" tire: -5.4mm, or 38.6 offset
37" tire: -10.8mm, or 33.2 offset
40" tire: -18.9mm, or 25.1 offset​

2. I'm in the minority here, but I like +25mm offset or greater.
3. Yes, stones will get kicked up even with factory offset (Especially on Rubicons and 4-doors).

 

[BlooJLU]

FYI, AEV Pintler wheels for the JL are 5.77 or +25mm. https://www.aev-conversions.com/product/pintler-jeep-jl-wheel/

My bad. BTW, the JK Pintlers/Savegres were 5.2" +10 if we're splitting hairs.....https://www.aev-conversions.com/product/jk-savegre-wheels-non-beadlock/. I was unaware the JL/Gladiator had their own version of AEV's wheels.

 

[Sky King]

the stock JL wheels are approximately 6.125" from the face of the inner hub. I would say that with no lift in your future, to be most concerned with backspacing of both the wheel and with the mounted tire. A 295mm tire is about 0.5" wider total and would be about 0.25" wider from centerline. The odds on rubbing with the stock rim, especially on the street or overlanding, is minimal. As to your choice of wheel, your backspace is static and it's just how much it sticks out. IDK your wheel width but 4.75" backspace is also very common. With D44s you need not worry.

Sorry, but what are D44s?

 

[AnnDee4444]

Sorry, but what are D44s?

It's the axles that come standard on the Rubicon. It's short for Dana 44: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dana_44

 

[bumpit]

I just put the aev borah on and got the jk version due to it having the backspacing I wanted.

The stock tires stick out of the wheel wells by less than a inch. Just what I was looking for.

 

[Fire Burns]

0 offset on a 9in wheel...

 

[ptoemmes]

As usual. all depends on what your goal is for on road and off road driving/wheeling, but I found this post and thread interesting: https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/ultimate-no-lift-goal.23016/page-2#post-564831

Ultimately the OP ended up with 315x70R17 C load K02's - the Raptor tire - on stock Rubicon wheels which is on the edge for the stock wheel width at 7.5" but done frequently. He changed a few other things but did not lift.

I'd guess with a 8/8.5" wheel width and a 5.2" BS you might get the 1-2" beyond fender look you are looking for with the 315x70r17 tire (a very short 35") , but then at no lift possible fender rub under articulation.

Others can chime in on the impact of this setup for wheeling limitations.

 

[Sky King]

As usual. all depends on what your goal is for on road and off road driving/wheeling, but I found this post and thread interesting: https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/ultimate-no-lift-goal.23016/page-2#post-564831

Ultimately the OP ended up with 315x70R17 C load K02's - the Raptor tire - on stock Rubicon wheels which is on the edge for the stock wheel width at 7.5" but done frequently. He changed a few other things but did not lift.

I'd guess with a 8/8.5" wheel width and a 5.2" BS you might get the 1-2" beyond fender look you are looking for with the 315x70r17 tire (a very short 35") , but then at no lift possible fender rub under articulation.

Others can chime in on the impact of this setup for wheeling limitations.

Thanks very helpful. I like the AEV Borah and see the JL version is a +25 offset. I think I can get the look with the look I want with a a Nitto 305/70r17 or if need be the 295/70r17 and use Method 701 wheels that come in a zero offset. I do like the black Borah's but don't think +25 works. One final question. If I go my route would that impair drivability in any way. I have heard much about people who have lifted and the vehicle wanders and needs to always be steered. I am I safe from that with just slightly bigger tires and using zero offset wheels.

 

[ptoemmes]

Thanks very helpful. I like the AEV Borah and see the JL version is a +25 offset. I think I can get the look with the look I want with a a Nitto 305/70r17 or if need be the 295/70r17 and use Method 701 wheels that come in a zero offset. I do like the black Borah's but don't think +25 works. One final question. If I go my route would that impair drivability in any way. I have heard much about people who have lifted and the vehicle wanders and needs to always be steered. I am I safe from that with just slightly bigger tires and using zero offset wheels.

That's above my pay grade (experience), but hopefully someone will wheel by and provide an answer from experience.

 

[Toycrusher]

37s on stock wheels, 1-5/8 spidertrax spacers, no interference other than with the inner liners at max flex

 

[Fire Burns]

Thanks very helpful. I like the AEV Borah and see the JL version is a +25 offset. I think I can get the look with the look I want with a a Nitto 305/70r17 or if need be the 295/70r17 and use Method 701 wheels that come in a zero offset. I do like the black Borah's but don't think +25 works. One final question. If I go my route would that impair drivability in any way. I have heard much about people who have lifted and the vehicle wanders and needs to always be steered. I am I safe from that with just slightly bigger tires and using zero offset wheels.

I'm on 37s with zero offset wheels and no lift. No wandering issues here. Rides like stock to me.

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