Best Lift System under $1500 - Daily Driver & Light Off-Road

[DARAMOS]

Hello All,

New to the JL game and excited to be part of the family. I have been researching a ton and looking for the best system for under $1500. I have a 2.0L JLU Sport: soft top, stock bumpers.

My Use: this is my daily driver and I have a 15 mile each way commute with 90% of it on HWY or State Rd (60-70mph+). My trail use will mostly be mudding and sand with not many big "obstacles". I also take some longer road trips from time to time and need the vehicle to be comfortable on 3-600 mile trips.

Requirements: i need it to be as close to as comfortable to stock (or better) with the ability to safely use 35"'s. Feel "comfortable / safe" on trails.

Initial Thoughts on Research:
1. Hype on ProComp K3111 Lift (+/- $500) and Fox IFP Shocks ($600) is there anything else needed to "complete" this kit?
2. Rock Krawler XFactor 2.5 Inch Stock Mod System-TT ($1400). These seems like a complete kit, but again is anything else needed?

Any other "better" options that would suit my specific vehicle and needs better?

Sponsored

 

[Clayton Off Road]

If you're looking for a kit that gives you the ability to run larger tires, while maintaining your vehicles already excellent road manners, our Entry Level Kit is a great option and is essentially just a stripped down version of our very popular Overland+ Lift Kit. The kit uses the same 100% maintenance free Giiro bushings as our Overland+ kits, which help to soak up road noise and vibrations for a comfortable on road driving experience. The kit is also designed to be upgrade-able this way, as using all of the same components means you can add any of the missing pieces in at a later time if you want to complete the lift with all eight adjustable arms for maximum off road performance! Feel free to check it out if you're interested!

https://www.claytonoffroad.com/product/jeep-wrangler-25-entry-level-lift-kit-4dr-2018-jl

 

[Cleoncini]

Personally, the two heavy hitters are Metalcloak and RK. I don't think you would go wrong with either:
RK 2.5 Max Travel
MC 2.5 True Dual

They're slightly above your $1500 budget, but I don't think you would regret either of those choices. Both brands are pretty solid.

 

[fatmanontwowheels]

I keep going back to this as I am pretty much looking for the same thing as you.
https://www.dynatrac.com/lift-kit-for-jeep-wrangler-jl-2.html

 

[limeade]

IMHO, there is no "best lift" for under $1,500 if you're talking about going with all new springs and shocks. There is no way any manufacturer can include all the parts necessary (for caster correction, good shocks, etc) to meet your specs. Don't skimp on a suspension lift, it is a major component and you want to do it right. If you are going to go for a lift, buy once and cry once. Get the needed parts in the beginning so you actually enjoy how your Jeep drives and steers. For any JL lift, you should address the following:

Front track bar and rear track bar (or relocation bracket): they allow for the ability to re-center your axles and are much stronger than stock track bars.

Caster correction - different kits address this by including front lower control arms, or front upper control arms, or front lower control arm drop brackets. The cheaper lifts don't have any form of caster correction. Trust me, if you don't address your caster, you won't like driving your Jeep at higher speeds.

Shocks - get the best you can afford (Fox 2.0's are popular and ride very well)

The Dynatrac has had good reviews, but doesn't include track bars or any form of caster correction. They do include good shocks though.

The RK Stock Mod kit doesn't address front caster, but otherwise is a great kit.

The Clayton is a great lift and includes front and rear track bars and front upper control arms. All you'd need to do is add whatever shocks you want. Clayton makes good stuff!

Another option is the RK Adventure Series 1 kit. It has a front track bar, rear track bar relocation bracket, and fixed front lower control arms. This is a great kit too.

I think the Metalcloak True Dual is also a great lift, but will be the most expensive too.

If it were me with your budget of $1,500 or so, I would get either the Clayton or the RK Adventure Series 1.

 

[limeade]

Forgot to add:

Another option would be to add a spacer lift, then add front (upper or lower) control arms, front and rear track bars (or relocation bracket), shocks, bumpstop kit, and sway bar links. Would definitely be a little cheaper than a lift with new springs. Then as budget allows, you could easily remove the spacers for aftermarket lift springs.

This would get you the height you need for 35's, yet address those areas of the suspension which need addressed.

 

[DARAMOS]

Below are the "total cost" of the lift mentioned above. The two RK's are the most economical but less complete than Clayton and MC.

I would be interested to know the components you choose when making the DIY build kit.

Which control arm, track bar, sway bar, shocks, spacer kit did you choose?

For caster and both on/off-road performance is a LC or UC arm preferred in the front. Same kinda question with the rear track bar, is a relocation bracket ok, or do I lose out a lot on performance (on or off-road)?

	Control Arm	Track Bar	Sway BarLinks	Shocks	Springs	Cost	TOTAL
CLAYTON	UC Arms	F & R Adj	F & R Adj	555*	Yes	$1,300	$1,855​
RK STOCK MOD	LC Arms +275	F Adj & R Relo	F Only	555*	Yes	$820	$1,650​
RK ADV SER 1	LC Arms	F Adj & R Relo	F Only	555*	Yes	$1,087	$1,642​
MC TRUE DUAL	UC Arms	F & R Adj	F & R Adj	Yes	Yes	$1,800	$1,800​

 

[Ohio Hiker]

or you could just get a Rubi take-off suspension from a forum member in the Member Marketplace (about $200) and mopar lift LCAs ($60) and that would probably meet your need at minimal costs.

 

[limeade]

Below are the "total cost" of the lift mentioned above. The two RK's are the most economical but less complete than Clayton and MC.

I would be interested to know the components you choose when making the DIY build kit.

Which control arm, track bar, sway bar, shocks, spacer kit did you choose?

For caster and both on/off-road performance is a LC or UC arm preferred in the front. Same kinda question with the rear track bar, is a relocation bracket ok, or do I lose out a lot on performance (on or off-road)?

	Control Arm	Track Bar	Sway BarLinks	Shocks	Springs	Cost	TOTAL
CLAYTON	UC Arms	F & R Adj	F & R Adj	555*	Yes	$1,300	$1,855​
RK STOCK MOD	LC Arms +275	F Adj & R Relo	F Only	555*	Yes	$820	$1,650​
RK ADV SER 1	LC Arms	F Adj & R Relo	F Only	555*	Yes	$1,087	$1,642​
MC TRUE DUAL	UC Arms	F & R Adj	F & R Adj	Yes	Yes	$1,800	$1,800​

Either uppers or lower CA's are fine to adjust caster. The upper's are cheaper (not as long, only one joint, etc) to include in a kit than lowers. I personally like to use the lower CA's to adjust for caster and the uppers to adjust pinion angle (not too important on front axle with only 2-2.5" lift though). You don't lose out on any performance with either. Although, lower control arms bear the bulk of the weight and force. The stock lower CA's can bend under certain circumstances (heavy use in rocks, etc). My preference would be to get the aftermarket lower's as this will beef up that area of the suspension.

The pro for a DIY kit is you can choose the "best" parts from all of the manufacturers. The three you have listed (MC, Clayton, RK) are the top names in suspension for JL's (my opinion).

If you go with a kit, the work for piecing things together is done for you, especially if you lack experience in doing this.

The rear TB relocation bracket is fine and plenty strong. If you're sticking with only 2"-2.5" lift, the bracket gets your rear axle centered. It's only drawback is if you want to use a Metalcloak rear differential skid plate. The TB bracket's axle mounting point takes up the same real estate on the axle tube as the skid. If you're not planning on using a rear diff skid, then the relocation bracket is the cheaper option.

Since you're new to the JL, my advice would be to go with a complete kit, or as complete as can be, and then add any additional parts from the same manufacturer. This will simplify installation so there's no conflicts, include the instructions, and have one point of contact for support/questions if needed.

As @Ohio Hiker stated, you could also go with a Rubicon take-off suspension. You'd still need to add lower CA's and all the other parts, pieces, etc. There's plenty of threads on here with the different spring specs. The spring rates for Rubicons vary based up engine, hard top vs soft top, steel bumpers, etc. The higher the spring rate, the more lift your Sport will get.

 

[Terminex]

make sure your coils & shocks are a matched set. I.e. the coil spring rate & the shock valving are spec'd to match. after that you can go with any set of control arm relocation brackets, and adjustable track bars. If you still have any money, I would get a set of front lower & rear upper adjustable control arms.

 

[Bud90]

AEV 2.5”

 

[entropy]

or you could just get a Rubi take-off suspension from a forum member in the Member Marketplace (about $200) and mopar lift LCAs ($60) and that would probably meet your need at minimal costs.

He wont be able to fit 35s with rubi takeoff alone. But he could do rubi takeoff + rubi or aftermarket fenders. Or rubi takeoff suspension + spacers. It is a great choice since you would be as close to stock with the rubi takeoffs.

 

[Ohio Hiker]

He wont be able to fit 35s with rubi takeoff alone. But he could do rubi takeoff + rubi or aftermarket fenders. Or rubi takeoff suspension + spacers. It is a great choice since you would be as close to stock with the rubi takeoffs as with any other system.

I didn't see the mention of 35s, but true dat!

 

[Clayton Off Road]

Either uppers or lower CA's are fine to adjust caster. The upper's are cheaper (not as long, only one joint, etc) to include in a kit than lowers. I personally like to use the lower CA's to adjust for caster and the uppers to adjust pinion angle (not too important on front axle with only 2-2.5" lift though). You don't lose out on any performance with either. Although, lower control arms bear the bulk of the weight and force. The stock lower CA's can bend under certain circumstances (heavy use in rocks, etc). My preference would be to get the aftermarket lower's as this will beef up that area of the suspension.

The pro for a DIY kit is you can choose the "best" parts from all of the manufacturers. The three you have listed (MC, Clayton, RK) are the top names in suspension for JL's (my opinion).

If you go with a kit, the work for piecing things together is done for you, especially if you lack experience in doing this.

The rear TB relocation bracket is fine and plenty strong. If you're sticking with only 2"-2.5" lift, the bracket gets your rear axle centered. It's only drawback is if you want to use a Metalcloak rear differential skid plate. The TB bracket's axle mounting point takes up the same real estate on the axle tube as the skid. If you're not planning on using a rear diff skid, then the relocation bracket is the cheaper option.

Since you're new to the JL, my advice would be to go with a complete kit, or as complete as can be, and then add any additional parts from the same manufacturer. This will simplify installation so there's no conflicts, include the instructions, and have one point of contact for support/questions if needed.

As @Ohio Hiker stated, you could also go with a Rubicon take-off suspension. You'd still need to add lower CA's and all the other parts, pieces, etc. There's plenty of threads on here with the different spring specs. The spring rates for Rubicons vary based up engine, hard top vs soft top, steel bumpers, etc. The higher the spring rate, the more lift your Sport will get.

Great information!

The way we like to think of budget-based kits are that they have to meet both a price point and functionality as top priorities. When thinking functionality for these kits, we try to favor on road driving performance a little bit over off road, only because if you were really looking to take your vehicle wheeling we would highly recommend going with a complete lift that features all 8 adjustable control arms for proper suspension geometry and of course articulation. By utilizing front upper control arms over front lowers, you're able to dial in your caster angle a lot easier and more effectively which directly correlates to your vehicles steering and handling characteristics. Front lowers do come with the advantage of adjusting wheelbase as well as caster, but you aren't able to achieve the same level of caster adjustment just using the lowers as you would the uppers, and wheelbase is not as much of a priority on road as it is off road.

If you're really looking for a budget-priced kit that can work for both on and off road driving, you might want to look at getting both front and rear track bars, and both upper and lower front control arms. Again we always recommend going with a complete system for best results, but this is just our opinion on the matter!

 

[DARAMOS]

how is the driving/performance of the Rubi take off as compared to going with an RK Adventure Series 1? The Rubi take-off would not do anything to my trackbars or control arms. How do the Rubi Shocks compare to Fox IPF or even the Rocksports from MC. I do agree its the cheapest option by far and leaves plenty of money left over for aftermarket fenders and other possible components.

If I go with a Spacer lift what are the "critical" components you would recommend being swapped? Shocks, LCA's, trackbar (or relocation brackets), SB links?

Sponsored