Best ball joints out there

plex

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There is nothing wrong about my stock ball joints at this point, but I plan to pull my axle shaft for an RCV, so figure since I am going to take off knuckles and everything, I may just upgrade the ball joints at the same time.

So far it seems the only two options are Dynatrac and Spicer? Price tag on Dynatrac seems a little high, and their rebuildable design is not very appealing. There are some mixed reviews about the Spicer ones (essentially the same as UD44 ones).

When will Synergy mfg come out with their ball joints?

 

wibornz

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I have added RCV front axles and Dynatrac Ball joints to three JLURs in the last two months. It is about a three hour job and pretty easy to do. I went with the Dynatrac as I though they were the strongest and were rebuildable. All of our JLURs ball joints were shot at 40,000+ miles. Note all of them have ran 37 on bead locks since new.
 

DadJokes

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I have added RCV front axles and Dynatrac Ball joints to three JLURs in the last two months. It is about a three hour job and pretty easy to do. I went with the Dynatrac as I though they were the strongest and were rebuildable. All of our JLURs ball joints were shot at 40,000+ miles. Note all of them have ran 37 on bead locks since new.
I just switched from the stock 32’s to 295’s and 99% of the miles have been on road so far. Build in progress. Taking a trip out west this Summer with a fair amount of easy to moderate trails in WY, MT, ID. I have 33k miles now. Would you guess I will be good to wait and make this a winter project?
 

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There is nothing wrong about my stock ball joints at this point, but I plan to pull my axle shaft for an RCV, so figure since I am going to take off knuckles and everything, I may just upgrade the ball joints at the same time.

So far it seems the only two options are Dynatrac and Spicer? Price tag on Dynatrac seems a little high, and their rebuildable design is not very appealing. There are some mixed reviews about the Spicer ones (essentially the same as UD44 ones).

When will Synergy mfg come out with their ball joints?
Dynatracs without question.
 

MarkY3130

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There is nothing wrong about my stock ball joints at this point, but I plan to pull my axle shaft for an RCV, so figure since I am going to take off knuckles and everything, I may just upgrade the ball joints at the same time.

So far it seems the only two options are Dynatrac and Spicer? Price tag on Dynatrac seems a little high, and their rebuildable design is not very appealing. There are some mixed reviews about the Spicer ones (essentially the same as UD44 ones).

When will Synergy mfg come out with their ball joints?
I haven't replaced ball joints yet (27,000 miles, 12k on 35's, 15k on 37's/beadlocks) but wanted to comment on the install of RCV's. I installed RCV's without removing the knuckles. I completely agree that if you wanted to do ball joints as well that it is a convenient time to do it. However, you can do the RCV's without removing the knuckle pretty easily if you wanted to punt the ball joints to a future date.
 
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wibornz

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I just switched from the stock 32’s to 295’s and 99% of the miles have been on road so far. Build in progress. Taking a trip out west this Summer with a fair amount of easy to moderate trails in WY, MT, ID. I have 33k miles now. Would you guess I will be good to wait and make this a winter project?
If you are not experiencing any problems yet, keep driving with the stock ones. I had about 45,000 miles on mine when I switched to the Dynatrac ball joints.

It should also be noted, that we all wheel a lot. So others may get more mileage out of their ball joints.
 
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plex

plex

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I haven't replaced ball joints yet (27,000 miles, 12k on 35's, 15k on 37's/beadlocks) but wanted to comment on the install of RCV's. I installed RCV's without removing the knuckles. I completely agree that if you wanted to do ball joints as well that it is a convenient time to do it. However, you can do the RCV's without removing the knuckle pretty easily if you wanted to punt the ball joints to a future date.
I am actually gonna do ball joints, RCV, Powerstop brake rotor, tierod at the same time, so pretty much disassembling everything in that area.
 

wibornz

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I am actually gonna do ball joints, RCV, Powerstop brake rotor, tierod at the same time, so pretty much disassembling everything in that area.
Well get it done. It is not a hard job. I had a hard time getting the carrier to separate from my ball joints. Used a sawzaw to cut the stems and then pounded them out with a hammer. It took two new blades to cut the stems and about 10 minutes to cut them.
 

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I am actually gonna do ball joints, RCV, Powerstop brake rotor, tierod at the same time, so pretty much disassembling everything in that area.
I did the PowerStop Z36 pads and rotors a while back. Not a huge improvement in stopping power, but noticeable during those emergency stops to avoid others stupidity.

I'm also waiting for a free day to install a set of rcv 2-piece axle shafts and outer seals, dynatrac ball joints, Reid racing knuckles, and rpm performance aluminum tie rod and drag link.

The dynatrac ball joints being of a rebuildable design is a good thing. The other option is having to keep pressing new sets in over the Jeeps lifespan. A press fit will always lose strength with every consecutive press, which will eventually lead to failure of the parent bore. Another vote for Dynatrac ball joints above all others.

Good luck with the front end refresh, and looking forward to reading about how you made out.
 

mandrew

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Another vote for Dynatracs. They are heady-duty and rebuildable.
 

Headbarcode

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Anyone tried the Apex Chassis ball joints? They look to be quality, at $300 for a set of 4. I demolished one of my stock ones today, and am trying to get going again without spending a fortune.

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Amongst other things, I was the in house machinist in the family business of truck and heavy equipment repair. We have a manual mill and lathe that I could control accuracy down to .0005". Press fits were one of the most common functions I performed.

I highly recommend you to ensure that those 2 bores are perfectly symmetrical before pressing in a new set. If there is any egging, the new ball joint housings will prematurely fail and could worsen the damage to those bores. At the very least, measure them both with a dial caliper. Check the top and bottom of each bore, both front to back and side to side for any differences. If there's any sign of the bores not being true, you'll want to get a set of ball joints that are knurled.
 

Renegade

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Amongst other things, I was the in house machinist in the family business of truck and heavy equipment repair. We have a manual mill and lathe that I could control accuracy down to .0005". Press fits were one of the most common functions I performed.

I highly recommend you to ensure that those 2 bores are perfectly symmetrical before pressing in a new set. If there is any egging, the new ball joint housings will prematurely fail and could worsen the damage to those bores. At the very least, measure them both with a dial caliper. Check the top and bottom of each bore, both front to back and side to side for any differences. If there's any sign of the bores not being true, you'll want to get a set of ball joints that are knurled.
Thanks for that info. I will put a dial caliper on them when I do the repair. I was able to press these back in on the trail and ease home (with the top joint nut barely holding onto the broken stud). The holes seemed to be true. There wasn't any speed involved with the break, just a bad sequence of events trying to get the Jeep un-wedged from a couple of rocks, and out from in front of a tree.
 

The Last Cowboy

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Now might be a good tome to replace those aluminum knuckles too. No extra work as long as you’re that far into it.

 

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