Best 2”- 2 1/2” lift for daily driver

[LTLWLLY]

A couple of of things to keep in mind: (1) the larger the tires, the more likely you are to need to regear. There are some charts on this site that you can refer to that should help you in making your decision. (2) ride quality is a matter of opinion. Some guys like stiff springs and some like a cushy ride. Again, there are some charts on this site showing the spring rate for various spring manufacturers that can help you make your decision. I have a dynatrac 2” lift on my 20’ Rubicon. It rides great without a load. However, it only takes couple of extra passengers and gear to overload it. (3) Shocks appear to one of the most important factors to consider when looking at ride quality. Shocks, however, are like springs, everyone has a different view of what a quality ride feels like. In this regard, I would suggest that you talk with the guys at Accutune. They know shocks and will give you an honest opinion about what shocks will best serve your needs.

I am definitely not putting 35 or larger on, looking at 33s or 34s........probably the 34s.

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[hoag4147]

I am definitely not putting 35 or larger on, looking at 33s or 34s........probably the 34s.

Pop on a set of Rubicon takeoff springs/shocks, add a 1/2” or 3/4 spacer on top, set of $60 Mopar Lift LCAs and call it a day.

 

[darylgordon]

Pop on a set of Rubicon takeoff springs/shocks, add a 1/2” or 3/4 spacer on top, set of $60 Mopar Lift LCAs and call it a day.

I agree. This is probably the best idea.

 

[Rock Hopper]

This is exactly what I’ve been trying to figure out with my 19 Sport S. Most of the 2” to 2.5” lifts looks weird with anything other than 35’s. The Dynatrac 2” seems to look ok with 33’s and I know the TeraFlex ST1 1.5” spacer lift would look fine with 33’s. It’s a hard decision and not easy to find people running 2.5” lifts with 33’s.

33's with a 2 inch AEV lift ..I doubt another 1/2 would make or break it.
*However MOAB's came standard with the Rubicon Suspension (Springs and Shocks).

Hopefully this helps.


Before/After

 

[Clayton Off Road]

I’ve been pondering their ride right lift. What shocks did you end up going with? I’ve been debating on Fox or of Bilstein. I just want to make sure it still rides nice after the lift.

Definitely give us a call if you're interested or have any questions! Both Fox and Bilstein will feel great on-road, with Fox having a slight advantage for off-road use

 

[Sting Gray Rubi]

The Rock Krawler Adventure Series 1 fits your needs and budget. Unlike the Dynatrac Endurosport, the RK Adv Series comes with everything you need to get your caster correct (fixed front lower control arms) and centers your axles (front adj. track bar and rear track bar bracket). This kit is easily upgradeable to their full X-Factor by adding X-Factor control arms in the future as your ability, needs, and budget grows. Due to the limitation in articulation, you won't need a front drive shaft, unless you get longer than spec'd shocks.

The Clayton lifts are also very good and their base units can be upgraded too.

No matter which lift, ensure you get something which addresses caster (Metalcloak uses front adjustable control arms, while others use lowers) and the centering of your axles (track bars front and rear or front TB and rear bracket).

I wondered why MC does uppers when others do lowers. Is it better to do uppers vs lowers or vice versa?

 

[JeepJLU402]

I wondered why MC does uppers when others do lowers. Is it better to do uppers vs lowers or vice versa?

You can use either to set caster but when you have both lowers center the axle and uppers set caster.

 

[limeade]

I wondered why MC does uppers when others do lowers. Is it better to do uppers vs lowers or vice versa?

My guess is cost is a part of it. Uppers are cheaper than lowers.
IMHO, Upper arms are ok for setting caster and really good for setting pinion angle. Lowers are good for caster and centering axle in the wheel well. They affect pinion angle a little less than uppers. For a front axle, caster is more important than pinion angle, especially if you’re still using the FAD.
If I were to choose only one, I’d go with lowers and then upgrade the rest as budget allows. The reason I’d choose lowers first is due to strength. Stock lowers aren’t very strong and can bend in certain circumstances. The lowers carry the vast majority of the front end forces versus the uppers.

 

[Dudley Dawson]

I wondered why MC does uppers when others do lowers. Is it better to do uppers vs lowers or vice versa?

Clayton also uses uppers (instead of lowers) to correct caster on their entry level “Ride Right +” kits (what I am running - great on road).

They explain why they use uppers on their site: “The distance from the center of the axle to the center of the upper control arms is greater than the center of the axle to the center of the lower control arms, which makes utilizing these front upper arms the most effective way to adjust your caster angle and address this critical piece of the suspension puzzle.” (https://www.claytonoffroad.com/product/jeep-wrangler-25-ride-right-lift-kit-4dr-2018-jl)

I plan to eventually add the lowers (and rear arms) for reasons already stated above regarding added strength, especially off road. And their bushings are far superior to OEM too.

 

[word302]

Clayton also uses uppers (instead of lowers) to correct caster on their entry level “Ride Right +” kits (what I am running - great on road).

They explain why they use uppers on their site: “The distance from the center of the axle to the center of the upper control arms is greater than the center of the axle to the center of the lower control arms, which makes utilizing these front upper arms the most effective way to adjust your caster angle and address this critical piece of the suspension puzzle.” (https://www.claytonoffroad.com/product/jeep-wrangler-25-ride-right-lift-kit-4dr-2018-jl)

I plan to eventually add the lowers (and rear arms) for reasons already stated above regarding added strength, especially off road. And their bushings are far superior to OEM too.

The problem is that when you lift, the front axle gets pulled towards the rear of the vehicle. Using upper control arms to adjust caster rotates the axle back further, bringing your tires even further out of center in the wheel well. When off-roading as the axle droops it continues to move rearward and you end up with tires rubbing earlier than they would otherwise. While using upper control arms is the easiest and cheapest way to adjust caster it’s definitely not the best way if you want to maximize clearance. Obviously with both uppers and lowers you can fine tune the caster AND get the wheels centered, maximizing wheel-well clearance in all scenarios.

 

[Mudduck]

Dynatrac Endurosport 2" is a nice budget option. Rides great on and off-road. Pic with 37s:

I like this lift, and the reviews/info I have found on it. It is what i will be ordering when i get time to install.

 

[Sting Gray Rubi]

I like this lift, and the reviews/info I have found on it. It is what i will be ordering when i get time to install.

I agree it's a good lift from what I've researched, however, for the price you can spend about the same and get a more complete kit. I'm currently sold on the 2" basic kit from Rusty's Off-road.


https://www.rustysoffroad.com/jeep-...r-rubicon/rustys-jl-wrangler-2-basic-kit.html

 

[Sting Gray Rubi]

33's with a 2 inch AEV lift ..I doubt another 1/2 would make or break it.
*However MOAB's came standard with the Rubicon Suspension (Springs and Shocks).

Hopefully this helps.


Before/After

I thought the AEV lift was 2.5"?

 

[somedude922]

I thought the AEV lift was 2.5"?

They have two lifts, a 2" spacer lift and a 2.5 suspension lift.

 

[NC31]

For a daily driver save some money and just do a spacer lift

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