Battle of the Budget Boosts

[aug0211]

I know there are some really nice, full blown systems available that are very capable. Unfortunately, those come with (appropriately) higher price tags compared to budget boosts and may be overkill for some of the lighter/newer users (like myself).

Luckily for us lighter users, there are cheaper “entry level” options available in “budget boosts”. I’m wondering what some of the experts think about the budget boosts currently available.

If we want a level, it looks like it is RC’s 2.5”/2.0” budget boost vs. the Ready Lift 2.5”/2.0” budget boost.

RC: http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep-suspension-lift-kit-676c.html

ReadyLift: https://www.readylift.com/blog/2018/02/19/readylift-announces-new-jeep-jl-wrangler-kits/


If we don’t want a level, it seems like it is the Daystar “level” (actually a 2.0”/2.0”) or Evo (2.0”/2.0”) or Rubicon Express (2.0”/2.0”).

Daystar: http://www.daystarweb.com/productdetail.php?productID=1586

Evo: http://www.evomfg.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=349

Rubicon Express: http://www.rubiconexpress.com/Suspe...E.aspx?t_c=1&t_s=38&t_pt=3533&t_pn=R/EJL7134E


Evo seems to be the most expensive and does not seem to be as complete of an offering (maybe I’m wrong?).

Daystar seems like it might be the best value in terms of what all is included for the price... I think?

Rough Country is the cheapest and seems to include the least.


Thoughts? N00b education is greatly appreciated. First time lifter here.

My specific goal is to be able to clear my 37x13.50s off road, without breaking the bank. I do not need to qualify for difficulty 5/5 trails, maybe just level 2-3/5.

Ride comfort/handling is also very important for me, so I’d love to hear about that.

Thanks in advance!

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[TJEli]

If you want the same lift front and rear, I think the Daystar is the most complete for the money. I have put about 400 miles on mine so far.

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/daystar-2-lift-intalled.15496/

-Eli

 

[River City Offroad]

I read your whole thread and prepared to say the RC is probably the best bang for the buck budget boost you're going to find. But then, I saw that you're wanting to run 37s and have them clear off road. Unless you are going to take your flares apart, you're not going to like the results of 37s on a 2" or 2.5" lift when you get out there and start articulating the suspension.

My JLUR is on a 2.5" Rock Krawler system (actual 2.5" of lift) with 37s. There is not room to articulate the suspension with the factory flares fully in place with a 37" tire. I can even make it rub the inner fender in the rear if I hit big dips in the road at speed. Rubbing is not a big deal, but it is annoying to listen to on the trail. Just something to ponder here and maybe consider going up to a complete 3.5" system like a Rock Krawler X-Factor.

Marcus

 

[aug0211]

I read your whole thread and prepared to say the RC is probably the best bang for the buck budget boost you're going to find. But then, I saw that you're wanting to run 37s and have them clear off road. Unless you are going to take your flares apart, you're not going to like the results of 37s on a 2" or 2.5" lift when you get out there and start articulating the suspension.

My JLUR is on a 2.5" Rock Krawler system (actual 2.5" of lift) with 37s. There is not room to articulate the suspension with the factory flares fully in place with a 37" tire. I can even make it rub the inner fender in the rear if I hit big dips in the road at speed. Rubbing is not a big deal, but it is annoying to listen to on the trail. Just something to ponder here and maybe consider going up to a complete 3.5" system like a Rock Krawler X-Factor.

Marcus

Thank you Marcus! That is excellent feedback. It makes sense that a 3”+ lift would be best with 37s.

That said, I’m also trying to minimize how much I lift (couple factors there). My offroad use will be mild (moderate at most), so I’m thinking I may just try to get away with extended bump stops.

 

[aug0211]

If you want the same lift front and rear, I think the Daystar is the most complete for the money. I have put about 400 miles on mine so far.

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/daystar-2-lift-intalled.15496/

-Eli

Your thread was a great read! Thank you for sharing!

 

[River City Offroad]

Thank you Marcus! That is excellent feedback. It makes sense that a 3”+ lift would be best with 37s.

That said, I’m also trying to minimize how much I lift (couple factors there). My offroad use will be mild (moderate at most), so I’m thinking I may just try to get away with extended bump stops.

You definitely can run the 37s, I just don't want you to have the impression that you'll have full stuff capability without a little handy work.

A budget boost should be just that, an affordable lift that keeps things close enough to spec to not require a ton of other parts.

 

[mgroeger]

I know there are some really nice, full blown systems available that are very capable. Unfortunately, those come with (appropriately) higher price tags compared to budget boosts and may be overkill for some of the lighter/newer users (like myself).

Luckily for us lighter users, there are cheaper “entry level” options available in “budget boosts”. I’m wondering what some of the experts think about the budget boosts currently available.

If we want a level, it looks like it is RC’s 2.5”/2.0” budget boost vs. the Ready Lift 2.5”/2.0” budget boost.

RC: http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep-suspension-lift-kit-676c.html

ReadyLift: https://www.readylift.com/blog/2018/02/19/readylift-announces-new-jeep-jl-wrangler-kits/


If we don’t want a level, it seems like it is the Daystar “level” (actually a 2.0”/2.0”) or Evo (2.0”/2.0”) or Rubicon Express (2.0”/2.0”).

Daystar: http://www.daystarweb.com/productdetail.php?productID=1586

Evo: http://www.evomfg.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=349

Rubicon Express: http://www.rubiconexpress.com/Suspension/Rubicon-Express-2-Inch-Economy-Lift-Kit-with-Shock-Extensions-JL7134E.aspx?t_c=1&t_s=38&t_pt=3533&t_pn=R/EJL7134E


Evo seems to be the most expensive and does not seem to be as complete of an offering (maybe I’m wrong?).

Daystar seems like it might be the best value in terms of what all is included for the price... I think?

Rough Country is the cheapest and seems to include the least.


Thoughts? N00b education is greatly appreciated. First time lifter here.

My specific goal is to be able to clear my 37x13.50s off road, without breaking the bank. I do not need to qualify for difficulty 5/5 trails, maybe just level 2-3/5.

Ride comfort/handling is also very important for me, so I’d love to hear about that.

Thanks in advance!

Actually the RC is not the most incomplete. It contains both front and rear sway bar links where EVO and Readylift only contain the rear ones and Rubicon Express does not give you any new sway bar links. Why anyone would spend $400 on Rubicon Express blows my mind as it is the most incomplete and overpriced out there. The only thing Daystar offers over the RC lift is front control arms and I don't think you really need them plus they are probably crappier than the factory ones at this price point.

I have been running the RC 2.5"/2" on a Sahara with Rubi rims/tires for about 5 months and it has been great. Ride comfort is very close to factory, it stiffened up a tiny bit as expected. We off road with it and have gone on some 3-4/5 trails and done well. As you noted the RC takes the rake out of the front and gives it a really good stance.

I know @Kevin8086 ran the RC budget lift with 35" tires and dominated many trails in his JLUR. I know he went up to 37" and I'm pretty sure he still kept that RC lift for awhile. Look up LiteBrite on youtube and you will find his wife's channel with all of their info and videos.

If you are doing level 2-3/5 trails 37" are probably over kill. I can't speak to how 37" tires would ride on the budget lift since we only have 33". The other thing to consider is if re-gearing the rear is in order when running those 37" tires. I know there is no need to re-gear for 35" ones.

 

[mgroeger]

FYI... I've been told and it would seem to make sense that you shouldn't go above 2.5" on a budget lift. They make 3" budget lifts but I'm told that's not a good idea and the handling isn't as good. Plus if you go above 2.5" you are most likely going to need a new track bar to get your axle centered back under the vehicle and possibly new control arms to put the axle back where it belongs.

You may want to rethink those 37" tires or look around on the forum for anyone who is running a 2.5" budget with 37s and what it was like. Checking our Kevin's page would be a good start. The other guy is right, not a lot of stuffin' room up in the fenders for 37s.

 

[TJEli]

The control arms that come with the Daystar kit are substantially larger and heavier than the stock control arms. They are longer which puts your caster angle back in spec. Are the needed? No but IMO the JL doesn't have enough caster angle to begin with/ The RC kit is 2.5" front and 2" rear. I wanted equal lift and ONLY 2"s.

I am actually getting ready to pair this lift up with Falcon 2.1 shocks from Marcus.

-Eli

 

[aug0211]

Thanks all! Keep the input coming! Especially with regard to the budget boosts in comparison to each other. Great info so far!

I’m leaning back toward the RC level at this point, though the Daystar is still a consideration for me. My concern is that with the added steel bumper, steel skid, winch plate, and winch - I’m pretty sure the level is needed now

Addressing some of the notes on 37” tires:

The other thing to consider is if re-gearing the rear is in order when running those 37" tires

You may want to rethink those 37" tires or look around on the forum for anyone who is running a 2.5" budget with 37s and what it was like

FWIW, I’ve been running my 37x13.5r17s since about week 1 of ownership and have well over a thousand miles on them. My wheels are -10 offset (4.33” backspace). They’re fine on road, around town, as a daily driver. No rubbing at speed or on speed bumps, driveways, etc.

But, I know that of course it’d rub offroad. So my plan for now is a budget boost with extended bump stops to clear the 37s. 35s are the more practical choice, especially for someone looking at my planned usage, but after reading many posts about how well the JL handles tires compared to the JK, I figured I’d go for it. I’m very glad I did! My turbo turns these things with no problem at all, zero need to regear (still in 8th on the highway). To be totally honest, the 35s just look too small to me on JL Rubis. Sports/Sahara’s, they look great, but I the Rubi didn’t look filled out enough to me.

I believe @TTEChris ran the RC level with 3” bumps on 37s, and confirmed that the 3” was enough to avoid rubbing at max flex. So, yes, I’d give up some flex - but I am ok with that for the level of use I’ll need.

 

[TJEli]

I feel that 2" bumpstop is enough in the front. 3" in the rear. Have any pics of your stock Rubi on 37s?

Another thing to remember is that 2"s of actual lift is the max that I would run without adjustable track bars. I like to have my suspension as close to "in spec" as I can. 2"s barely moves the axles once everything is loosened and retorqued. 2.5" starts to shift things enough that it is noticeable with the naked eye.

-Eli

 

[aug0211]

Have any pics of your stock Rubi on 37s?

 

[aug0211]

I feel that 2" bumpstop is enough in the front. 3" in the rear.

Thank you for this nugget of info - this is exactly the sort of info I’m looking for.

 

[mgroeger]

I feel that 2" bumpstop is enough in the front. 3" in the rear. Have any pics of your stock Rubi on 37s?

Another thing to remember is that 2"s of actual lift is the max that I would run without adjustable track bars. I like to have my suspension as close to "in spec" as I can. 2"s barely moves the axles once everything is loosened and retorqued. 2.5" starts to shift things enough that it is noticeable with the naked eye.

-Eli

The RC budget lifts the front 2.5" and the rear 2". I can't see any shift of the axle with the naked eye but I don't doubt it shifted some. I've had it aligned at the dealership because the tires are feathering. It helped a little bit but they are still feathering. Took it back and they found a tie rod end and the steering bar would click when you grabbed them and moved them by hand. They said that's not normal and ordered new parts.
Do you think if my axle is slightly offset it could be causing feathering? Also how do you know how far to adjust an adjustable track bar to bring it back to spec?

 

[WranglerMan]

I have the RC 2.5” budget boost and am running 315 KO2’s and have put about 4K miles on my Sahara and it still rides as smooth as the day the lift was done and when the guys at Discount Tire put new sensors in my wheels ( that’s another story ) the tech said my tires were wearing well and I can’t feel any feathering in the tires at all, still have about another 1K miles before,rotating so time will tell

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