Battery tenders

[BRuby]

so post #83 in that link talks about having to do both batteries. That was kind of my question. So if I get a battery tender as Jimbox states all I need to do is hook that tender up to the main pos and main neg post and I am good? Or will the ESS battery die in that case?

ESS def will not die - but is not optimal is all. The alt charges both when running anyways. Charge separately is best. Dealer also agrees.

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[JeepU4IA]

I have the same problem. Either my Tazer Lite is the culprit or more likely the Uconnet is draining the battery. I had a similar problem with my Dodge Charger until they fixed it with a software update.

After parking my Jeep for just 4 days, the ESS wouldn't activate. The reason on the dash was "battery charging." When I got to work I connected my battery charger which indicated the battery was at 70%. After a few hours of trickle charging, the charger indicated 100%. I then drove the Jeep and still no ESS, same reason.

My takeaway: the main battery and the aux battery may not necessarily have the same voltage or charge. Maybe they would if I left the trickle charger on longer? Does this make sense?

 

[viper88]

2.0 w/ tow package

I own the same engine. I daily drive but have let it sit for a little over 3 weeks and it started right up with no problem. I honestly don't know how long it could sit before the battery dies? I wonder if 3 -4 weeks is the upper ceiling for sitting without a battery charger/tender?

 

[JIMBOX]

It's like BASIC BATTERY (DUAL) CHARGING--

If you hookup to the MAIN BATTERY--(maintainer)--it will DRAW/USE most of the 1 amp charging current--UNTILL !!!

It approaches 100%, then the maintaining charge current will be directed to the SMALL ESS BATTERY-!
-
That's why that when setting up a DUAL BATTERY SYSTEM you HAVE to use two *identical-(RESONABLY) BATTERIES, they will share charging requirements--

FCA, really SCREWEDUP putting these two DIS-SIMILAR BATTERIES in the system, but we gotta live withit !

Good luck

W.E.

JIMBO

 

[WranglerMan]

I just plug in my Deltran tender once a month and leave it connected for a few days, as I have said when coming off the tender the batteries are both above 12.7 and the EVIC display indicates the same but after a few days of back and fourth to work the displayed voltage shows in the 13’s then just leaving it parked with some back and fourth to work it slowly creeps up to the lower 14’s but has never failed to start or ESS has never failed to work when I have tested it.

I’m sure the uconnect system draws power and the Smart stop/start module draws a small amount as well so these two things I’m sure add up in draining the battery.

Even when it displays 14+ in the EVIC for several days in a row when I check the batteries with my meter they usually in the range of 12.55-12.65, I know at the lower number its not 100% but like I said the JL starts so maybe my batteries are slowly dying due to the heat in south Texas or they are just crappy batteries but my thinking is just a piss poor design that was not well planned on FCA’s part

I have even thought the maybe the IBS is bad or possibly some other relay in there design but I can’t over think it as things like this tend to grow and when they do it’s all you think about and then you get to the point where driving it is not enjoyable so for now I’m going to enjoy my ride and use my tender just for cheap insurance and if I have issues I still have the warranty and even a slightly extended one that will cover issues like this

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