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Battery issues and How to test 48V eTorque Battery?

JLRanger

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Any updates? I have been facing the same issue. took to dealer and asked them to check my 48V battery as I assumed this was the issue and covered under 5 year warranty. They said it was my 12V battery. So I replaced it with an Odessey battery in March. I am now having the same issue and I suspect it is tied to my e-Touque/48V system. But then again, if that was the case, it sure took a while for my new battery to drain and I would have thought my new battery would have drained sooner. I am going to start trouble shooting a parasitic drain but sure wish there was a way to test the 48V and know if it was charging ok.
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Trojan_Actual

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Trojan_Actual

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Cujo7240

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I installed a solar panel on the hood of my Jeep to offset the battery drain and it appears to be working.
Jeep Wrangler JL Battery issues and How to test 48V eTorque Battery? 20230319_194452
 

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I installed a solar panel on the hood of my Jeep to offset the battery drain and it appears to be working.
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Glad you found a workaround but it does make sense that your battery was dropping its state of charge over time.

That 0.6 Amp parasitic draw of course happens every hour 24/7/365. That seems excessive to me.

The unit of power relevant here is Amp hours which converts the Amperage (current) units over time to energy units (Amp hours).

An average car battery has around 40-50 Amp hours of energy available. With a 0.6 Amp draw you would use 14.4 Amp hours of energy every 24 hours so you would expect to hit 50% SOC in a couple of days.

As suggested you could pull fuses while watching your current meter and try to find the current draw, or just continue to use the solar panel to cover it.

According to the internet 😎:

A normal amount of parasitic draw for newer cars is between 50-milliamp to 85-milliamp current draw. A normal amount of parasitic draw for older cars is a reading less than 50-milliamp. Anything past these amounts indicates an electrical issue and should be addressed by a mechanic.
 
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Cujo7240

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My wife has a 2020 Subaru Forester and is parasitic draw is even worse. These Subaru's actually run the fuel pump as part of internal emissions check while the car is parked in the garage. I put her battery and mine on the charger to keep the state of charge up from time to time. During the winter it's even worse.
 

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Stick your tongue on it... Sorry could not resist. I have the 3.6L with eTorque and the dealer swapped in new 12v batteries twice now. One thing they told me was that if you leave the keyfob in the car or near the car there is a constant draw. Not sure if that is true or not, but one thing that I did find was that the battery was never completely charged correctly. I purchased an Optima charger that has a slow charge just for AGM batteries and hooked it up to the main battery right after picking it up at the dealer. The battery showed 50%, slow charged it over night and have not had a problem since then.
 

Trojan_Actual

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I installed a solar panel on the hood of my Jeep to offset the battery drain and it appears to be working.
Jeep Wrangler JL Battery issues and How to test 48V eTorque Battery? 20230319_194452
So curious, when you replaced the battery, did you install a H7 group size?
 
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Cujo7240

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So curious, when you replaced the battery, did you install a H7 group size?
I installed the same size as the original with a little bit higher CCA, but I'm sure of group size.
 

Trojan_Actual

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I installed the same size as the original with a little bit higher CCA, but I'm sure of group size.
I have a 2020 2.0T with e-torque. It comes from factory with a H7. Just making sure. I literally had the SAME issues you have. Low volts, slow to start, aux switch warning, charging system working great, etc. I changed my battery to a Diehard AGM and haven’t had ANY issues at all. I also installed a Ultimate9 Bluetooth battery monitor to keep tabs from now on. Here’s the link if you’re interested!

https://www.ultimate9.co/ultimate9-bluetooth-battery-monitor.html
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