Banks Power - Ram Air Intake

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AnnDee4444

AnnDee4444

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Nobody recently has made this point, so I will bring it up again: You shouldn't expect a cold-air intake to make any additional peak power. The peak power would be achieved when the timing & fuel tables are maxed out, which typically only occurs during colder weather, and will taper off as it get warmer. The idea behind the cold-air intake is that it makes the intake temperatures stay cooler at a warmer ambient temperature (so if the timing/fuel tables were only optimized below 75* ambient temperature, they would now be something like 80*).

Increasing the intakes flow could actually increase peak power, but it won't be nearly as noticeable as the ecu retarding the timing on a hot day.
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I found an AFE Momentum that was listed as "Like-New" on Amazon. It is arriving tomorrow, as are the rains, so I will hopefully have time to get it on and see for myself. I'm not expecting a noticeable power gain, but better flow and a reasonable sound. I have also been looking at the Dynamax Muffler delete, but will see if it is needed. 98% of my miles are on the road, but the cleaner under-belly looks good.
 

moodywizard

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I have the Banks and muffler delete. The muffler delete can get annoying on long trips if up in the RPM range for an extended time. I have the 3.6 auto regeared etc. and driving in socal or deserts with strong winds it likes to be up in the 2500+RPM range alot. Of course all this is subjective to the individual.
 

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I have the Banks and muffler delete. The muffler delete can get annoying on long trips if up in the RPM range for an extended time. I have the 3.6 auto regeared etc. and driving in socal or deserts with strong winds it likes to be up in the 2500+RPM range alot. Of course all this is subjective to the individual.
that is good to know and consistent with some others opinions. I figured I would try in some steps to phase it in. Sort of an experiment to try to get the sound basically in a more functional place for me. 2500 RPMs to 3000 is where I typically max out.
 

BlackGenesis

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Nobody recently has made this point, so I will bring it up again: You shouldn't expect a cold-air intake to make any additional peak power. The peak power would be achieved when the timing & fuel tables are maxed out, which typically only occurs during colder weather, and will taper off as it get warmer. The idea behind the cold-air intake is that it makes the intake temperatures stay cooler at a warmer ambient temperature (so if the timing/fuel tables were only optimized below 75* ambient temperature, they would now be something like 80*).

Increasing the intakes flow could actually increase peak power, but it won't be nearly as noticeable as the ecu retarding the timing on a hot day.
While true for closed loop driving, your statement is completely false when it comes to open loop driving.
Open loop - when you floor it or while engine still cold. In this situation car does not use oxygen sensors and runs predefined fuel tables. Usually rirch. Properly design less restrictive intake will offer less resistance and better velocity and will gain small amount of power. Usually real word gain is 5-10whp.
Yes waist of money on a Jeep. Just get gears - will feel like a supercharger.
 
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AnnDee4444

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While true for closed loop driving, your statement is completely false when it comes to open loop driving.
Open loop - when you floor it or while engine still cold. In this situation car does not use oxygen sensors and runs predefined fuel tables. Usually rirch.
I don't know the specifics about the 3.6 tune, but I'm not sure how you can claim that my statement is completely false when you don't know for sure that the open loop tune is rich.

Additionally I did bring up airflow power gains in the last sentence, but mistakingly forgot to mention the air's effects on the air/fuel ratio. Oops.
 
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BlackGenesis

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I don't know the specifics about the 3.6 tune, but I'm not sure how you can claim that my statement is completely false when you don't know for sure that the open loop tune is rich.

Additionally I did bring up airflow power gains in the last sentence, but mistakingly forgot to mention the air's effects on the air/fuel ratio. Oops.
I have tuned multiple cars on dyno or street (readout via wideband ) all been runnin rich.
Intakes only lean out A/f small amount, majority of gain is impro ed air velocity.
Also length of intake pipe affects where you gain power. Long intake pipe has the highest gain in the midrange power, while short only gains high rpms due to air velocity.
Any intake that's open (not in the box), even with heatshild - expect to lose power due to higher intake temperature, exponentially more so on FI engine.

So those who want more low end - snorkel intake. Those who ok with mostly top end - just throw in less restrictive filter in the stock box, as the rest is basically the same.
 

daboink

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I have now had the AFE Momentum with the AFE muffler delete on for several months. I don't know about dyno, but I do like going through the gears (6 speed) better; I can hear the engine with the radio on. I also have seen an approximate 1.0 - 1.4 mpg gain that I didn't expect. It can get loud at high RPMs which is where reported HP gets a boost. Most of my driving is around 2.5 - 3,000 RMP. Highway driving is fine at speed.
 
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