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Baja Designs are Not JL Rubicon Install Friendly with their Harness

BajaDesigns

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Has no one ever tried to mount the lp6’s on the end of the oem steel bumper? I don’t want to mount them on the bull bar or remove the bull bar.
We mounted a pair of LP6s on a Rubicon Steel bumper like this using the OEM Torx bolt. But I don't believe it will work in combination with the bull bar option. Do you have pictures?

Jeep Wrangler JL Baja Designs are Not JL Rubicon Install Friendly with their Harness jl
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Yellowssm

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We mounted a pair of LP6s on a Rubicon Steel bumper like this using the OEM Torx bolt. But I don't believe it will work in combination with the bull bar option. Do you have pictures?

Jeep Wrangler JL Baja Designs are Not JL Rubicon Install Friendly with their Harness jl
I don’t have pics yet because I just ordered them but was just wondering if it would fit in either of the spots my 2 fingers are.

3F9E4DE8-3B5A-4047-89E3-CF965903A650.jpeg
 

BajaDesigns

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I don’t have pics yet because I just ordered them but was just wondering if it would fit in either of the spots my 2 fingers are.

Jeep Wrangler JL Baja Designs are Not JL Rubicon Install Friendly with their Harness 3F9E4DE8-3B5A-4047-89E3-CF965903A650
The LP6 might be a tad to tall and block the headlight. Mounting wise, it should work with the existing Torx bolt with our U-bracket. I attached a PDF of a dimensional drawing so you can check if it will block it or not.
 

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Alamein.sajib

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I finally got my pair of LP 9 Pro's (had to wait over 2 months for shipping to Australia)

I also got LP9 pro harness (64-0172). Below is my plan for wiring:

- Factory Aux (1) On = Low Beam On
- High beam steering wheel stalk On = High Beam On (also turns off low beam) High beam can be turned on with the stalk regardless Factory Aux Switch on or off. (I know which wire in light assembly to splice into)
- Side marker to turn on the ambient light (I know which wire to splice into)


To make above happen, I have been searching Baja Design website to see if they have any instruction for the wiring harness as I am seriously confused with so many wires and the built-in button. not sure which wire colour/code is which, what I need to cut/chop to make above happen.

Any help will be highly appreciated!

Jeep Wrangler JL Baja Designs are Not JL Rubicon Install Friendly with their Harness IMG_0823
 

BajaDesigns

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I finally got my pair of LP 9 Pro's (had to wait over 2 months for shipping to Australia)

I also got LP9 pro harness (64-0172). Below is my plan for wiring:

- Factory Aux (1) On = Low Beam On
- High beam steering wheel stalk On = High Beam On (also turns off low beam) High beam can be turned on with the stalk regardless Factory Aux Switch on or off. (I know which wire in light assembly to splice into)
- Side marker to turn on the ambient light (I know which wire to splice into)


To make above happen, I have been searching Baja Design website to see if they have any instruction for the wiring harness as I am seriously confused with so many wires and the built-in button. not sure which wire colour/code is which, what I need to cut/chop to make above happen.

Any help will be highly appreciated!

Jeep Wrangler JL Baja Designs are Not JL Rubicon Install Friendly with their Harness IMG_0823
Hi Al,

What you described should be possible but it's definitely going to take some wiring.

Two things to start off, each LP9 Pro takes up 9.12 amps in the high beam and the high/low pins can NOT be powered at the same time. Since you would like to tap into the factory headlight high beam circuit to trigger the high beams on the LP9 Pros, we need to keep the relay in the harness. This way the power is not being robbed from the factory circuit but pulled straight from the battery. I would verify first in your Jeep that the headlight high beam is controlled with an independent wire because we'll be tapping into that. At the DPDT switch, there's four wires (Red-no power, Red- 12v constant power, White- no power, White- 12v constant power). The red controls the low beam and the white controls the high beam. With a multi-meter or test light, you can identify which lead from the red and white that has no power, this is our load wire. The load wires are what were working with. Touching back to the note on how the high/low pins can NOT be powered at the same time. I STRONGLY recommend incorporating a safety relay (spoken about in this thread). This prevents damage to the lights if you were to trigger both circuits at the same time. The relay automatically shuts off one circuit. I attached the schematic to this post. The leads that go to triggers (high beam circuit and Aux 1) are off spades 86 and 87. The red and white leads (no power) are hooked up to 30 and 86 according to the schematic.

Lastly the amber back light is controlled by the yellow lead and can be tapped into a switched power circuit.

I hope this helps, thank you.
 

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Alamein.sajib

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Hi Al,

What you described should be possible but it's definitely going to take some wiring.

Two things to start off, each LP9 Pro takes up 9.12 amps in the high beam and the high/low pins can NOT be powered at the same time. Since you would like to tap into the factory headlight high beam circuit to trigger the high beams on the LP9 Pros, we need to keep the relay in the harness. This way the power is not being robbed from the factory circuit but pulled straight from the battery. I would verify first in your Jeep that the headlight high beam is controlled with an independent wire because we'll be tapping into that. At the DPDT switch, there's four wires (Red-no power, Red- 12v constant power, White- no power, White- 12v constant power). The red controls the low beam and the white controls the high beam. With a multi-meter or test light, you can identify which lead from the red and white that has no power, this is our load wire. The load wires are what were working with. Touching back to the note on how the high/low pins can NOT be powered at the same time. I STRONGLY recommend incorporating a safety relay (spoken about in this thread). This prevents damage to the lights if you were to trigger both circuits at the same time. The relay automatically shuts off one circuit. I attached the schematic to this post. The leads that go to triggers (high beam circuit and Aux 1) are off spades 86 and 87. The red and white leads (no power) are hooked up to 30 and 86 according to the schematic.

Lastly the amber back light is controlled by the yellow lead and can be tapped into a switched power circuit.

I hope this helps, thank you.
Thank you for the reply. got it sorted, needed 2 set of relay for my use case. cant wait to try it out with my next trip!
 

Alamein.sajib

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May I ask why you need two sets of relay? Thanks.
Sure! as i mentioned earlier, i wanted high beam to come on with the factory high beam signal/stalk, that being the default option. With this scenario, i couldn't connect the LP9 Pro directly to the high beam cable as this will not provide enough amp for both factory headlight and the LP9 Pro's (i measured 23 amp peak draw for the pair of LP9's). That meant i needed to draw power directly from the battery.

In addition to above, my 2nd goal was not to use (as in isolate/turn on/off) the high beam using my Aux Switch. I will use the Low beam for Aux switch on demand, which will also disconnect high beam (for safety not to turn on both high and low beam circuit at the same time).

With provided 5 pin relay, i could not achieve both goals (drawing power from battery to power the high beam while using aux switch for low beam and safety disconnect).

I used a second 4 pin relay just for the high beam. Two relays in total, the steps were:

For High Beam:
- Take direct power from battery, connect to pin #30 of provided 5 pin relay which will divert the power to always on/default power pin #87a.
- Connect pin #87a of 5 pin relay to the second 4 pin relay's pin #30 for power input.
- Connect high beam (White) cable of LP9 to pin #87 of second 4 pin relay.
- Connect the high beam signal from factory headlight to the 4 pin relay's switch function, pin #86.
- The 4 pin relay i used does not have a always on pin/power, its default in off/disconnect, and only provides power to pin #87 when it receives a signal on pin #86
- Pin #85 of 4 pin relay to common ground.

For the low beam:
- Connect aux (any, 1,2,3,4 as no power provided, just for signal) to pin #86
- Connect low beam (Red) cable of LP9 to pin #87
- If you turn on the aux switch/low beam it divert the power from pin #87a (high beam/always on) to pin #87 ensuring high beam get disconnected at the same time.
- Pin #85 of 5 pin relay to common ground.

For Amber:
- Connect LP9's Yellow wire directly to parking light wire on fender (you can also connect to DRL wire if you wish)

and yes....i had to chop the hell out of the LP9's harness..used it mostly for material (great quality cabling, that would be hard to do DYI).

Hope this make sense!
 

jeffleach

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Hi Al,

What you described should be possible but it's definitely going to take some wiring.

Two things to start off, each LP9 Pro takes up 9.12 amps in the high beam and the high/low pins can NOT be powered at the same time. Since you would like to tap into the factory headlight high beam circuit to trigger the high beams on the LP9 Pros, we need to keep the relay in the harness. This way the power is not being robbed from the factory circuit but pulled straight from the battery. I would verify first in your Jeep that the headlight high beam is controlled with an independent wire because we'll be tapping into that. At the DPDT switch, there's four wires (Red-no power, Red- 12v constant power, White- no power, White- 12v constant power). The red controls the low beam and the white controls the high beam. With a multi-meter or test light, you can identify which lead from the red and white that has no power, this is our load wire. The load wires are what were working with. Touching back to the note on how the high/low pins can NOT be powered at the same time. I STRONGLY recommend incorporating a safety relay (spoken about in this thread). This prevents damage to the lights if you were to trigger both circuits at the same time. The relay automatically shuts off one circuit. I attached the schematic to this post. The leads that go to triggers (high beam circuit and Aux 1) are off spades 86 and 87. The red and white leads (no power) are hooked up to 30 and 86 according to the schematic.

Lastly the amber back light is controlled by the yellow lead and can be tapped into a switched power circuit.

I hope this helps, thank you.
Do you have one of these diagrams for the LP6's to create the high/low beam lockout using the aux switches in the Rubicon? I asked for one when I ordered my lights but there was nothing in the box.
 

2Wheel-Lee

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Do you have one of these diagrams for the LP6's to create the high/low beam lockout using the aux switches in the Rubicon? I asked for one when I ordered my lights but there was nothing in the box.
This is simple to achieve with basic wiring and a couple relays.
I use the fog light wires to power each low beam, and the AUX1 output to power the high beams. So that they're both not on at the same time, I connect the AUX1 signal to a couple relays (one for each circuit) to interrupt the low beam signal. Easy peasy.

The ambers on my LP6s are connected to my rock lights.
 

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BajaDesigns

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Do you have one of these diagrams for the LP6's to create the high/low beam lockout using the aux switches in the Rubicon? I asked for one when I ordered my lights but there was nothing in the box.
It's actually the same as an LP9 Pro. :)
 

BajaDesigns

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https://www.bajadesigns.com/products/Jeep-JL-JT-Rubicon-Steel-Bumper-Kits.asp

Is this a specific wiring kit for the JL? What's the differnece between upfitter and standard wiring harness?
The upfitter harness is for Jeeps that have the factory auxiliary switches or if they have an aftermarket switch panel (Switch-Pros or Spod). Since some Jeeps have everything (relay, switch, and fuse) already setup, all you need to do is run a power and ground lead.

On Jeeps that don't have a factory auxiliary switch panel, you would need the toggle switch harness. This also means you would have to locate a place in your dash to mount the switch. It's a completely standalone harness.
 

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The upfitter harness is for Jeeps that have the factory auxiliary switches or if they have an aftermarket switch panel (Switch-Pros or Spod). Since some Jeeps have everything (relay, switch, and fuse) already setup, all you need to do is run a power and ground lead.

On Jeeps that don't have a factory auxiliary switch panel, you would need the toggle switch harness. This also means you would have to locate a place in your dash to mount the switch. It's a completely standalone harness.
Can you post up the installation instructions for the aux switches? I adapted the old harness, but might fork over a sawbuck to clean it up and get the protection from having both high and low switches on at the same time.
 

BajaDesigns

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Can you post up the installation instructions for the aux switches? I adapted the old harness, but might fork over a sawbuck to clean it up and get the protection from having both high and low switches on at the same time.
Sure thing - the two links below should have all the info needed.

https://www.bajadesigns.com/images/64-0167, LP9, LP6 Upfitter Lockout Harness.pdf

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...cable-color-code-wiring-identification.13026/

Please let me know if you are still unsure.
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