Baja Designs are Not JL Rubicon Friendly

  1. DanW

    DanW Well-Known Member

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    I'm going to use the BD harness and tap into the aux switches to run them. How did you rewire the relay? I'd like to have Aux 1 be for low and Aux 2 or 3 for high. I'd love to have it so that the low/high can't come on at the same time. Also, do you know what color the wiring is for high and low? I'm sure I can figure it out, but any shortcuts would help.

    Please assume I know very little when you explain. I'm not experienced at all with this kind of wiring. I've done simpler setups, like a set of Hellas, and a set of Rigids, but this looks more complicated to me, especially with all the wires at the BD 3 way switch.
     
  2. DanW

    DanW Well-Known Member

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    I've laid out the harness and lights on the floor. I'm going to go ahead and bolt the lights to the bumper, run the harness to them and connect them, then just bundle it under the hood until I begin to understand what to cut and connect.

    For those following along who don't have the harness, the back light wire runs to the left, the power to the right, the relay and switch are at the bottom left, and the lights are in the boxes.
    R2BeqMw.jpg
     
  3. Midwest22

    Midwest22 Well-Known Member

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    I can't quite remember all the steps I took to do this but I will say that all you need is right in front of you. I repurposed the relay so that it switches between the low and high beams (low being the NO - Normally Open terminals).

    As I mentioned in a previous post, be sure to run the main power to the 40amp circuit. The relay can then be switched with the AUX 3 or 4 button since theres almost no current going through it.

    When you're done you will have just about as much spare wire as you have in the Jeep. In other words, what they give you is way overkill (but thats MUCH better than not enough!).

    Also, if you haven't already done so, download the light schematic from the BD website. This will assist you in knowing which wires to solder (or crimp) together.

    Sorry I can't be more helpful. But I will say it was pretty easy.
     
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  4. roaniecowpony

    roaniecowpony Well-Known Member

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    For me and my Jeep, the LP series is just way overkill. I need about 4000-5,000 spot beam lumens for lonely highway speeds and about 10,000 lumens of multiple wide/side beams for my very modest speeds while on trails at night. I'm putting 2 BD Squadron Pro combo beams in the bumper and some wide beams elsewhere.
     
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  5. DanW

    DanW Well-Known Member

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    I went ahead and did it with switch 1 as high beam, switch 2 as low, and 4 as running lights. It is working fine and I haven't tripped up and triggered 1 and 2 at the same time yet. I may try to tackle this at some point, but I'll have to have someone like you who knows what they are doing with that relay standing right over my shoulder to tell me exactly what to do.

    As for the lights, they are ridiculous! I couldn't be happier. The Rigid side shooters still give me more peripheral light, but the LP's still reach pretty wide. I think I'll take the Rigids off for the summer so I can lower the windshield, then put them back on between October and May. Of course, I may get to the point where I've "been there and done that" with the windshield and go back to the current arrangement full time.

    Thanks for all the advice!
     
  6. AnthemAVM

    AnthemAVM Well-Known Member

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    Can you have overkill on a jeep?
     
  7. DanW

    DanW Well-Known Member

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    Lol, no such thing as too much light on a Jeep!
     
  8. roaniecowpony

    roaniecowpony Well-Known Member

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    :beer: I'm old...so old that I remember driving a 6 volt Volkswagen that had headlights that you could almost see 50 feet when the engine was above 2500 RPM. So, a couple Costco LED flashlights duct taped to the fenders would be acceptable to me. :jk:
     
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  9. zscooby

    zscooby Well-Known Member

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    I just called Baja Designs, they stated that you can run the low beams off the stock fog light switch and wiring. That's what I'm going to do, then run the high beams off aux switch with a relay triggered by high beams. The running lights to DRL (very excited)
     
  10. Midwest22

    Midwest22 Well-Known Member

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    I wouldn't advise wiring the lights in this way. I've already gone through the reasons why but I'll recap the most important.

    The BD LP6's are EXTREMELY bright. You can not run with them on the main roads (well, I do but Im in the middle of nowhere and have my finger on the button to turn off at all times). If you tie into the fog lights you wont be able to use them in normal driving conditions. I don't know about you but I love having my fog lights on with my headlights.

    Reason #2 for NOT tying the LP6's to the fog nights - each LP6 has 7.5 amps draw when on full. If you multiply that times 2 you have 15 amps. While I haven't looked at the fuse size for the factory fog lights IF you really want to go this route you need to make sure that it can handle the extra load.

    Since you are already planning to utilize an Aux switch to trigger the high beams, you might as well just put the LP6 low beams on another AUX switch. I have main power running through AUX 1 (40 amps) and a relay that switches from low/high on AUX 3 (15 amp). Its REALLY simple to modify the BD wiring harness to accomplish this. They give you everything you need and you end up with a LOT of wire left over.

    Thats just my $0.02 for what its worth.
     
  11. zscooby

    zscooby Well-Known Member

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    Specifications:
    Forward Projecting Lumens: 8,600 Utilizing 6 LEDs
    Forward Projecting Wattage/Amps: 90W / 6.5A

    IPT Lumens: 1,700 Utilizing 4 LEDs
    IPT Wattage/Amps: 15W / 1.0A

    Backlight Wattage/Amps: 4.14W / 0.3A
    Dimensions: 6.5" Height / 6.5" Width / 3.2" Depth
    Weight: 4.2lbs
    LED Life Expectancy: 49,930 Hours
    Front Lens: Hardcoated Polycarbonate
    Housing: Hard Anodized Machined Aluminum
    Bezel: Billet Machined Aluminum
    Hardware & Bracket Material: Stainless Steel
    Exceeds MIL-STD810G (Mil-Spec Testing)
    Built-In Overvoltage Protection
    IP69K (Waterproof up to 9ft & Pressure Washable)

    IK10 Compliant (Mechanical Impact Testing)


    This off their website says 1amp per light on low
     
  12. zscooby

    zscooby Well-Known Member

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    SAE squadrons are brighter than the low beams on the lp6 and pull 1.6amps
     
  13. Midwest22

    Midwest22 Well-Known Member

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    Looks like you may have glossed over the portion where I said “each LP6 has 7.5 amps draw when on FULL. ”. A better argument would have been the 40 amp fuse that’s on each fog light being more than capable of running them (as I just checked) .

    Regardless, as someone who has LP6 lights installed, I would highly advise you against the method of tying into the factory fogs. Nevertheless, install them the way you want. It’s your Jeep after all. ;)
     
  14. texasyj2009

    texasyj2009 Member

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    I just bought 2 LP6 pros, as well as the BD wiring harness. I am wanting to wire the lows to AUX 1, high beams to AUX 2, and the DRL to AUX 3 or 4. What did you cut and what did you keep? I am guessing the little black box is the relay? Did you keep that?
     
  15. DanW

    DanW Well-Known Member

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    Honestly, I'll have to go look at it this weekend. It has been a bit since I did it, so I don't completely remember. I don't think I kept the relay. I directly wired the low beams to one aux switch and the high beams to another, and back lighting to a third. The upside is simplicity. The down side is that the high and low could be activated at the same time, if someone didn't know better.
     
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