Baja Designs are Not JL Rubicon Friendly

  1. pcpopcorn

    pcpopcorn Well-Known Member

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    #1 Mar 21, 2019
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2019
    LP6 Pros are not an easy install on a JL with Factory Aux switches
    They may be a Rock sponsor but they do not have a plug and Play design
    I just bought the LP6 Pros and the LP9 Harness to install in my Rubicon with the factory installed 4 Aux Switches.
    I thought this would be a simple 2 wire installation.
    It is not!
    Now I have a switch on top of my battery cover for High and Low Beams and another Yellow Wire which is for an Amber Back light that goes nowhere!
    Called Support twice with 0 Help!
    Cool Looking Lights Yes but I would advise sticking with Mopar Lights for simple Plug and Play
     
  2. BajaDesigns

    BajaDesigns Well-Known Member
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    Hi there,

    I'm sorry about the lack of support you received. The LP6's are not sold Plug and Play for any vehicle, my apologies about the misunderstanding, I'm not exactly sure where you saw them listed as so.

    Currently, there are two ways the lights can be installed:
    A) Using the Baja Designs Wiring Harness and Supplied Switch
    B) Using the Pre-Wired Connections under the hood

    Option B does require extra work from the installer and is a little more complex. You will have to run wiring directly from the underhood wires to the light. You can't use the BD harness with the underhood connection. Looking at the rear of the light you will see:

    Screen Shot 2019-03-21 at 5.55.01 PM.png

    The Jeep has 4 wires under the hood with the following colors/amperage (info from here):

    Brown/Pink Stripe | 40A | Aux 1
    Green/Pink Stripe | 40A | Aux 2
    Pink/Orange Stripe | 15A | Aux 3
    Blue/Pink Stripe | 15A | Aux 4


    Often times, the Amber Backlight (Pin 3) will be tied into the OEM parking lights. This allows customers to only use 2 switches inside instead of three. Aux 3 and Aux 4 are what most customers use for this application. One switch will power Low Beam (Pin 1), the other switch will power High Beam (Pin 4).
    Note: Do NOT wire Low and High Beam together or run both switches at the same time. This can cause damage to the circuit board.

    We do include the opposite-side connector when you purchase the lights, this allows you to run your own wiring from the underhood connections directly to the light.

    Sorry again about the confusion. I hope this helps clarify your options for wiring the lights. Please reach out if you need any further assistance.

    Baja Designs
    www.bajadesigns.com
     
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  3. Bilymac

    Bilymac Well-Known Member

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    Great explanation @BajaDesigns. Thank you for making great products.
     
  4. OP
    OP
    pcpopcorn

    pcpopcorn Well-Known Member

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    My comment about Plug and Play was based on my assumption(My Error)reading your posts and seeing you comment on this forum.
    We did use the Harness and like I said the switch is on top of the battery cover and set to High.
    I really do not like this set up and can only imagine a dealers view when they open the hood.
    We wired your Red Wire from the harness to Aux #2 because your fuse was a 30 Amp fuse which we did not use(Was that correct?We could not find the Amp Draw for these lights)What is it?
    Is it OK to Ground(Black Wire on Harness Directly to Battery Ground?)
    I do not like the idea of making my own harness to use the Aux switches in the Jeep for High and Low for the following reason.
    We understand if both High and Low settings were energized at the same time damage to the board could occur.I could see going down a bumpy trail at night and accident fumbling for the correct switch hitting a bump and both switches activated.
    Last Question then a comment:
    Is there a wire on the JL near the Battery for the running lights that anyone is aware of?
    OK now for my comment
    These lights are really cool with the High Low Feature and the Amber Light Running light Feature
    That said I did not notice these attributes on your website.I think you should have this wiring info for a JL on your site
    I think if you offered a simple light like the LP6 with a simple harness and Instructions for a JL you would hit a home run.
    The Old acronym KIS =Keep It Simple
    BTW
    Because you did react so quickly to my Post I will tone it down and I invite you to edit as well :)
     
  5. BajaDesigns

    BajaDesigns Well-Known Member
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    Aux 2 is probably a little overkill since these lights don't draw close to 40A. All of the specifications are listed on the bottom half of the product page, here is the wattage/amps for the lights:

    Specifications:
    Forward Projecting Lumens: 8,600 Utilizing 6 LEDs
    Forward Projecting Wattage/Amps: 90W / 6.5A
    IPT Lumens: 1,700 Utilizing 4 LEDs
    IPT Wattage/Amps: 15W / 1.0A

    It's perfectly fine to run a ground connection to the battery instead of a chassis/frame ground.

    Sorry about missing the DRL and Hi/Lo features on our site. It's listed in the description but we'll try to make it more clear for other customers. We'll see what we can do to make those details easier to find :)
     
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  6. jruss

    jruss Well-Known Member

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    Well, I had never heard of these lights before this post. Pretty badass. 3 actual functions in one housing has my attention.
    Learning wiring and what not can be a daunting task but this looks to me like a pretty straightforward set up. Wiring is something that gets easier with time and practice. Make sure you loom everything properly and avoid pinch points. Heat shrink butt connectors and terminal ends are a nice factory look touch and also provide a good weatherproof seal as well.
    As bajadesigns mentioned, running a ground to the negative battery post is fine. The negative battery post is actually connect by wire to the frame, the body and the engine so all of those locations could technically be used as well. I wouldn’t recommend the engine though as it moves under torque load. I prefer the negative post because I can sneak wires up and keep track of any loose connections where they terminate.
     
  7. offcamber

    offcamber Well-Known Member

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    #7 Mar 22, 2019
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2019
    I have the LP9 Pro's and I used the BD harness. i just cut the switch/relay portion off and ran the wires to the factory AUX wiring. I put the running lights on AUX 4(will eventually wire them to the factory running lights but wanted to be able to turn them off for running dark and now that the Tazer has a dark mode I can do that). I ran the lowbeam to Aux 1 and the Highbeam to Aux 3. Works great.
     
  8. Sven

    Sven Active Member

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    @offcamber - that is exactly how I planned to wire my new LP6s. Did you mount Your LP9s to the OE Steel Bumper? If so, can you take a pick of how you did it and send it my way? I want to use a factory bumper bolt to mount them, but I'm struggling with where to place them so they don't interfere with the winch or tow hooks. Can't find a single pic on the internet of LP9s or LP6s mounted on the Steel Bumper Group front bumper...
     
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  9. KCC_703

    KCC_703 Well-Known Member

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    Don't own the LP6's, but on the list when I get the cash...

    Great post, and also didn't realize the different modes on the LP6.


    This is how I'd like to wire things up. Using the Aux switches for the different modes would be great. So its a 3 wire connection (including ground) under the hood?


    I think BD has a picture of the LP9s mounted directly to the steel bumper of a Rubicon on their site... the red hooks give it away.

    EDIT: Just checked and the they have the LP9 Sports on the JK steel bumper.
     
  10. OP
    OP
    pcpopcorn

    pcpopcorn Well-Known Member

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    LP 6
    Factory steel bumper
    Mopar Bull Bar and Mounts

    DAB14400-861D-4E70-B619-C6F903621D89.jpeg

    BF5B25D5-2466-45BE-971F-0C792D1FE132.jpeg

    1C89B804-1C4D-4126-BF12-2CA3514DE66C.jpeg

    0ABF4D0E-898D-4B75-8C70-28F530E9E605.jpeg
     
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  11. SnowDog

    SnowDog Well-Known Member

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    I got the Mopar lights but only because I wasn't aware of these. They look awesome. I guess I'll have to make do with my Squadron Pro fogs.
     
  12. Sven

    Sven Active Member

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    Wow @pcpopcorn, your JL looks ridiculous man! I love the black grill on your Firecracker Red JL.
     
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  13. Midwest22

    Midwest22 Well-Known Member

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    I'm sitting here with the wire loom that I got from you guy and am in the process of rewiring it to work with my Aux buttons. Im a little confused with your description of the amp draw. you (@BajaDesigns) wrote this:

    Forward Projecting Lumens: 8,600 Utilizing 6 LEDs
    Forward Projecting Wattage/Amps: 90W / 6.5A
    IPT Lumens: 1,700 Utilizing 4 LEDs
    IPT Wattage/Amps: 15W / 1.0A

    I'm assuming this is for each light (not a pair?). So if I add 6.5 + 1 = 7.5amp draw X 2 = 15 amps, isn't this pushing the limits of the Aux 3 & 4 buttons given that they are 15 amps?

    Also, as Im cutting up your beautiful wire loom with the switch and relay to make it work. Can you please confirm the following:

    1. I can run the main power directly to the Aux wire (without a fuse since its built in). Also I don't need to run the wire directly to the battery and use a relay?
    2. Is it ok to use a common 12v wire from #1 above and repurpose your relay to switch between high/low (using another Aux button). Im 99% sure the answer to this is yes.

    I was originally going to just buy a DPDT relay and replace it with the switch you provided but Im realizing that A) this is over kill given the situation and B) I don't need all that wire under my hood so I'm trimming at least 1/2 of it off.

    Also, I'll just wire the amber lights to either a DRL feed (or sacrifice another Aux - prob not tho).
     
  14. Midwest22

    Midwest22 Well-Known Member

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    @BajaDesigns don't worry about answering that post of mine. I figured it out. I ended up removing the switch and rewiring the relay so it controls the high/low.

    For others that are doing this, I suggest you use Aux 1 or 2 since they are 40 amp circuits to power the light. You can use 3 or 4 if you do what I did and rewire the relay so it switches from high to low.

    As it stands I didnt plug in the amber lights to either my day time running lights or use one of the other Aux buttons for fear I might want that in the future. If I end up finding the wire to tap into for the DRL's I MIGHT go that route. Since the ambers are just essentially backlighting they don't serve too much purpose.

    One thing that would have been good to have are longer mounting bolts. When you mount these on the Mopar brackets (on your winch guard if you have one), the bolts are too short. They do not make contact with the locking nut. I threw a SMALL amount of loctite blue on mine. Its a small amount of insurance so you dont end up dragging an expensive light down the road!
     
  15. OP
    OP
    pcpopcorn

    pcpopcorn Well-Known Member

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    It would be so much easier if they just made a harness for the JL.
    It's not like the JL is going away.
    It could have a quick connect near the Bumper to tie in to the running lights.
    I wired my light switched to HI in to Aux 2 but that is not necessary as Baja pointed out.
    You can not run Hi and Low at the same time so current draw is minimal as they pointed out here.
    Confusing I know and we took the better safe than sorry approach but they corrected us.
    Aux 2 is probably a little overkill since these lights don't draw close to 40A. All of the specifications are listed on the bottom half of the product page, here is the wattage/amps for the lights:

    Specifications:
    Forward Projecting Lumens: 8,600 Utilizing 6 LEDs
    Forward Projecting Wattage/Amps: 90W / 6.5A
    IPT Lumens: 1,700 Utilizing 4 LEDs
    IPT Wattage/Amps: 15W / 1.0A
     
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