Backup Lights

nositting

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Hey all, I need some wiring help on this project. I have a 2020 JLUR with the halogen light package. I’m trying to wire up a pair of cube lights in my aftermarket bumper such that they come on in reverse and also on Aux switch #3. I connected the two lights together with a deutsch y-harness, with a pigtail running into the passenger tail light compartment. Ran a wire from the Aux #3 switch in the engine compartment, through the frame rail, to the passenger tail light compartment. I’ve got the two-into-one diode in that compartment, with the Aux #3 hot coming into input #1 and tapped off from the white/purple wire on the vehicle side of the tail light plug for diode input #2. Diode output goes to the hot side of the light pigtail. I tapped off from the black wire on the vehicle side of the tail light plug to join the ground for the lights. All done with marine connections for water resistance.

In this config, the aux lights work when I turn on Aux #3. Sweet! But when I put it in reverse, the lights flick on real quick, then the light cubes and passenger tail light go dead. Not sweet.

What did I do wrong? Did I tap into the wrong wire for reverse hot? Am I running afoul of the CANBUS by having two lights drawing off from the single halogen hot?
i think i’ve heard of something like this. the answer i think was something regarding having the halogen and not the LED light package (as if to say there wasn’t enough voltage to run everything?) but i’m not 100% sure. certainly someone else with more knowledge will chime in.
the wiring sounds appropriate to me.
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seanm001

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Hi all, I finally had time to get back to this project and am having an all-new set of problems.

I disconnected the drivers side cube light and tested the reverse and Aux #3 on just the passengers side - the cube light lit up for both. Then I spliced into the hot wire coming from Aux #3, ran that over to the driver's side tail light. I ran it into the IN side of a second diode, also spliced off from the reverse light hot (white with orange trace) and ran it to the other IN terminal on the drivers side diode. Drivers side diode OUT went to the drivers side cube light and black went to ground.

Now both lights work fine using Aux #3. But when I put it into reverse only the drivers side cube light turns on (tail lights and reverse lights work fine). What did I do wrong? Do I need to run separate hots from Aux #3 to each light rather than splitting one wire?
 

trainsafe

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@seanm001
Do you have both hot wires on the cube lights connected to each other?

They should be tied together and also connected to the OUT on each of the two diodes.
 

Blu bi Kong

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I just upgraded my reverse lights all around. Two leds in my DV8 bumper wired to reverse. (Changed from switched) one cube light behind spare tire wired to reverse. Stock halogen swapped with deiselled plug ins. Very simple. Remove right taillight, tie in to white reverse light wire to trigger switch of added relay. (White w/orange brown tracer) tie into 12v constant for relay power in towing harness right there within taillight hole in corner. One wire to ground and the last wire tied to new reverse lights. Now there is an amazing amount of light when backing up without turning them on and I have freed up aux switch.
20200706_210640.jpg
 

Rhinebeck01

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@Blu bi Kong

Yes, quality, auxiliary back-up lights really are a plus /do make a difference on a JL.

To me having the auxiliary b/u lights go on with an Aux switch and also when you place the JL in reverse is the absolute way to go though. I'd have it no other way.. WHY have a terrific rear light source that you could use and not use it...

I've had my auxiliary b/u lights wired that way for over 2 years now.

Can tell you that I switch the b/u lights on with the Aux switch, quite frequently... When loading my trailer, to wake up some idiot driving behind me to close, when working in the field and need light to the rear of the JL, when camping and also for a host other reasons.

Anyway, I can only see not having the auxiliary b/u lights hooked up to an Aux switch if you just don't have a free Aux switch...
 

Blu bi Kong

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@Blu bi Kong

Yes, quality, auxiliary back-up lights really are a plus /do make a difference on a JL.

To me having the auxiliary b/u lights go on with an Aux switch and also when you place the JL in reverse is the absolute way to go though. I'd have it no other way.. WHY have a terrific rear light source that you could use and not use it...

I've had my auxiliary b/u lights wired that way for over 2 years now.

Can tell you that I switch the b/u lights on with the Aux switch, quite frequently... When loading my trailer, to wake up some idiot driving behind me to close, when working in the field and need light to the rear of the JL, when camping and also for a host other reasons.

Anyway, I can only see not having the auxiliary b/u lights hooked up to an Aux switch if you just don't have a free Aux switch...
I do have two pod lights at rear corners as well that are switched. Didn't mention those. Yes, it is good to have switched lights back there for a plethora of reasons!
 

Rhinebeck01

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For those contemplating install of auxiliary b/u lights on your JL.

About installing auxiliary b/u lights on a JL. IF, if you have the tow package on your JL, do not be afraid, don't avoid, taping into the necessary single wire at the 7 pin connector at the rear of your JL.

I just recently had a JL owner tell me, they were hesitant to do the connection at the 7 pin connector as it was low on the JL... that they wanted to keep the connection they were making up where it would not get wet...

Well, you don't have to avoid using that connection. You grab your trigger wire at the 7 pin connector and there is no need to worry about it being a low point or that it may get wet... that makes no difference. As for the low point you will be ripping off the whole 6 pin in general if you drag that bad on rocks, etc.. ......You can get that connection wet and everything will be just fine.

IF you look at your 7 pin and you will see it's all pretty much open to the water, etc. there so why would you be concerned about your wire/connection there.

If you have the the tow package, make the connection there versus going to the tail lights and cutting into the factory harness there. It's always best not to get up / tap into factory lighting harnesses. The wires are frail/small diameter there also.

You want to be as least invasive to factory lighting harnesses as you can. Reason being is they are hard to trouble shoot if and when there is a lighting issue and also the dealer will more often then not give you lots of blow back for cutting into the harness there.

No dealer (rare, rare one maybe) is going to give you blow back over tapping into a single, stout, easily viewed/fond wire on the rear of the JL, at the 7 pin connector. The connection there is a single one and the wire you tap into is stout/larger diameter. Also connection there is easily weatherproofed..

To take that single connection at the 7 pin, out of the equation to trouble shoot an electric issue is very apparent and easy to do...

Also, that single splice you made is easily remembered compared to what you did when you violated the factory tail light harness.

In closing if you have the tow package use the trigger wire there.. Easier, more prudent to do so.
If no tow package then tap into the tail lights if you must but do so cleanly lets say..
 
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Blu bi Kong

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For those contemplating install of auxiliary b/u lights on your JL.

About installing auxiliary b/u lights on a JL. IF, if you have the tow package on your JL, do not be afraid, don't avoid, taping into the necessary single wire at the 6 pin connector at the rear of your JL.

I just recently had a JL owner tell me, they were hesitant to do the connection at the 6 pin connector as it was low on the JL... that they wanted to keep the connection they were making up where it would not get wet...

Well, you don't have to avoid using that connection. You grab your trigger wire at the 6 pin connector and there is no need to worry about it being a low point or that it may get wet... that makes no difference. As for the low point you will be ripping off the whole 6 pin in general if you drag that bad on rocks, etc.. ......You can get that connection wet and everything will be just fine.

IF you look at your 6 pin and you will see it's all pretty much open to the water, etc. there so why would you be concerned about your wire/connection there.

If you have the the tow package, make the connection there versus going to the tail lights and cutting into the factory harness there. It's always best not to get up / tap into factory lighting harnesses. The wires are frail/small diameter there also.

You want to be as least invasive to factory lighting harnesses as you can. Reason being is they are hard to trouble shoot if and when there is a lighting issue and also the dealer will more often then not give you lots of blow back for cutting into the harness there.

No dealer (rare, rare one maybe) is going to give you blow back over tapping into a single, stout, easily viewed/fond wire on the rear of the JL, at the 6 pin connector. The connection there is a single one and the wire you tap into is stout/larger diameter. Also connection there is easily weatherproofed..

To take that single connection at the 6 pin, out of the equation to trouble shoot an electric issue is very apparent and easy to do...

Also, that single splice you made is easily remembered compared to what you did when you violated the factory tail light harness.

In closing if you have the tow package use the trigger wire there.. Easier, more prudent to do so.
If no tow package then tap into the tail lights if you must but do so cleanly lets say..
I feel like I touched a nerve there!
 

Rhinebeck01

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I feel like I touched a nerve there!
@Blu bi Kong

No, not at all.. no nerve touched.. Just got me thinking how many Novices, etc. come to a thread to read and learn. I like to help so get on a rant in regard to installs, etc..

You did not initially mention you did in fact have switched lights back there already to use..

So, just wanted to make it clear a good way to go is to have switched and on with reverse. automatically.

The part about the hook to the 7 pin wire is because I recently had a guy call me and mention concern about water, etc. if he used the 6 pin.. 8-)
 
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cptchunk

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Hi Folks,

It seems this is a pretty active thread, so didn't want to open a new thread for a 'simple' question. I've got stock halogen tails and I think like many others, we've all realized the stock reverse/backup lights are terrible. I've been looking into LED bulb replacements (size looks to be 7440/7443), but wasn't sure if there was a resounding recommendation for certain ones. Looking for any recommendations as I'm not ready to add any AUX lights just yet.
 

lembowski

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Hi Folks,

It seems this is a pretty active thread, so didn't want to open a new thread for a 'simple' question. I've got stock halogen tails and I think like many others, we've all realized the stock reverse/backup lights are terrible. I've been looking into LED bulb replacements (size looks to be 7440/7443), but wasn't sure if there was a resounding recommendation for certain ones. Looking for any recommendations as I'm not ready to add any AUX lights just yet.
Below is an example of a replacement bulb for stock halogen lights.

https://www.oraclelights.com/produc...bulb-single?rq=mk_jeep~md_wrangler-jl~yr_2018
 

cptchunk

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Deiselleds
I see a couple different 7440 models on their site (Ultra-B and a Samsung). Which did you go with?

Below is an example of a replacement bulb for stock halogen lights.

https://www.oraclelights.com/produc...bulb-single?rq=mk_jeep~md_wrangler-jl~yr_2018
Okay, I did come across these and happy to hear of someone else here liking those. I read of some being a hair too long or resting against the housing and was worried about melting a light housing. I really appreciate these responses guys--thank you!
 

HB Jeep

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I just finished installing a new Westin WJ2 Rear Bumper with Westin HyperQ B-Force Flood Auxiliary Lights with the AUX wiring & 7-Way Trailer Harness method using 2 Roadmaster 690 Diodes. I also took my factory reverse sensors with wiring harness and installed those in the new bumper as well. I’m not an electrician so this was a new venture for me to try out.

Thanks to all who contributed to the 38 page thread on this topic. Some helpful feedback to future installers:

- Buy a 25’ Fish Tape to pull the wire through the frame from front to back ($12 on Amazon ). It took maybe 2 mins max to do this with minimal effort. Best money spent.
- I used Lockitt POSI-Taps to easily tap into the trailer hitch wiring for the reverse light feature. The diodes and taps can all be wired and stored in the passenger rear tail light section.
- Westin’s lights actual came with a decent wiring harness so I cut up and reused some of it for the shorter runs.

Here’s the finished product:
0EF0813B-1DC8-4C96-B023-AF54F97DA795.jpeg

B34D7ED7-755B-4F64-B3B4-FF34765EB1A3.jpeg
 
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