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Auxiliary (AUX) Switches Configuration/Installation DIY

will1111

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Hi All.....

Any update on this?...
I did the same install over the weekend, seemed to go well, but I did have
issues with that pin as well.....
when I was done....I had a "sway bar" warning light come up....So Saturday I brought it to the dealer and had the unit flashed...now I get a Stop/Start error message... even after the flash...still no AUX lights up at all....

they want me to drop it off later today, and they will have a look at it...I was trying to arm myself with as much info before i went in.
Just make sure all the pins are properly in place. Orange wires are a pain in the butt and those are the ones that give u the ess message
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Cutterwolf

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Just make sure all the pins are properly in place. Orange wires are a pain in the butt and those are the ones that give u the ess message
Okay,...thanks....its in the dealership now...So well see what they come back with...
 

Cutterwolf

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Okay,...thanks....its in the dealership now...So well see what they come back with...
Well..That's exactly what was wrong...seems the orange wire strikes again....I must not have had it in 100% properly...

All is working as it should now...Thanks for the help!!
 

redsyphon

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So, I had the dealer install this for my Sport today. Everything is there except for the ignition and constant power wires.

I.e. the kit only appears to come with the 4 aux wires.

The fuse bank does have 6 slots under the hood, but only 4 are filled and the wire wraps only look to contain the 4 aux wires, etc.

Just a fyi
 

zhilbert

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It won't light up until you reflash the uconnect....I had everything done and installed some spot lights and work perfectly. I did find some crimp terminals that fit just fine. Not exactly like oem but good enough to stay on place and make a solid connection. No more warning light from the auto start/stop
So I activated the AUX switch settings for uConnect. The settings show up in the menu and i can set latching/momentary/etc. But the switches still don't light up, and I don't think I am getting any voltage on the wires in the footwell. I didn't check the wires under the hood. Do I need something hooked up for the switches to function? Or do you think something else is wrong? Maybe I have a bad connection somewhere.
 

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will1111

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So I activated the AUX switch settings for uConnect. The settings show up in the menu and i can set latching/momentary/etc. But the switches still don't light up, and I don't think I am getting any voltage on the wires in the footwell. I didn't check the wires under the hood. Do I need something hooked up for the switches to function? Or do you think something else is wrong? Maybe I have a bad connection somewhere.
the switches won't light up unless something is connected to them. I only have aux 3 in use for spot lights but I checked all other ones and they worked. Didnt check the footwell ones because I didnt see myself using them any time soon.

The only place I could see a bad connection is possible is with the orange wires that u connect with the supplied 2 way connector. The one where u put the plastic pin on the emlpty slot. You would get an auto start stop error message I believe thou....if u connected the wires on the aux panel properly and had a solid connection where I mentioned, maybe the harness was defective
 

zhilbert

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the switches won't light up unless something is connected to them. I only have aux 3 in use for spot lights but I checked all other ones and they worked. Didnt check the footwell ones because I didnt see myself using them any time soon.

The only place I could see a bad connection is possible is with the orange wires that u connect with the supplied 2 way connector. The one where u put the plastic pin on the emlpty slot. You would get an auto start stop error message I believe thou....if u connected the wires on the aux panel properly and had a solid connection where I mentioned, maybe the harness was defective
Thanks. I'll have to find some 12V device to wire in and test. I'm pretty sure my orange wire is good. If it still doesn't work when I hook something in, I'll pull of the panel and check connections going into the switches.
 

EsTxDr

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Complete newbie question about wiring to the aux switches. I am trying to wire my LED light to one of the 15amp switches.
Below is the wiring that comes with the light. Can I just basically replace the switch in the kit with one of the aux switches and leave everything else the same? I assume the switches have a fuse so that would make two fuses in the line, but is that really a big deal? If so, can I just tape off the other two wires at the switch and just use the red one?

Thoughts?

Untitled.jpg
 

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Kadonny

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Complete newbie question about wiring to the aux switches. I am trying to wire my LED light to one of the 15amp switches.
Below is the wiring that comes with the light. Can I just basically replace the switch in the kit with one of the aux switches and leave everything else the same? I assume the switches have a fuse so that would make two fuses in the line, but is that really a big deal? If so, can I just tape off the other two wires at the switch and just use the red one?

Thoughts?

Untitled.jpg
Part of your question I asked and never got a direct answer but I think I know the answer.

If you use the aux switch wiring from the Jeep, I don't think you need another inline fuse. So in your schematic, the pic shows 3 wires at the switch, you will only need two. So from the light, run the red to the aux wire in the Jeep, and the black you still need to run to a ground post. The third wire lights the switch, which you will not be using since you are wiring it to the Jeep aux switches. That one you can tape off.

I think that's your answer, but if someone else who actually has their Jeep can confirm. I wish I could confirm, but my Jeep is stuck in JB hell.

My main question was also with the direct to battery wire. If you use the direct to battery wire in the aux wire bundle, is that wire fused? That's where I want to hook up my CB, the direct to battery wire but want to know if I need a fuse between it and the CB.
 

EsTxDr

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Part of your question I asked and never got a direct answer but I think I know the answer.

If you use the aux switch wiring from the Jeep, I don't think you need another inline fuse. So in your schematic, the pic shows 3 wires at the switch, you will only need two. So from the light, run the red to the aux wire in the Jeep, and the black you still need to run to a ground post. The third wire lights the switch, which you will not be using since you are wiring it to the Jeep aux switches. That one you can tape off.

I think that's your answer, but if someone else who actually has their Jeep can confirm. I wish I could confirm, but my Jeep is stuck in JB hell.

My main question was also with the direct to battery wire. If you use the direct to battery wire in the aux wire bundle, is that wire fused? That's where I want to hook up my CB, the direct to battery wire but want to know if I need a fuse between it and the CB.
So basically remove everything past the switch. You could ground the black wire at the switch, connect to the switch with 2nd, and tape off third.

led_cut_diagram.jpg
 

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The only connections you need will be the black (negative) and red (positive). Delete everything from the provided switch to the back with the exception of the fuse holder. Here is the reason you will want to keep the fuse holder. The factory circuit has a 15 amp fuse and you may not need that high of a fuse rating for your lights. You never specified how many of which model on the instructions you are installing. If you require a fuse of less than 15 amps then you will need a fuse of 5 or 10 amps to provide the proper cutoff point to protect the lights. If you later decide to add more lights on the same switch and the total load requires less than 15 amps you should protect each with a fuse of the recommended rating to be safe. If you prefer to stay with the factory fuse only you change the fuse in the power distribution center to a lower rating but never exceed the 15 amp rating because the wire size the factory has in the harness will get excessively hot and a fire could result. Nothing worse than burning down you Jeep.
 

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The only connections you need will be the black (negative) and red (positive). Delete everything from the provided switch to the back with the exception of the fuse holder. Here is the reason you will want to keep the fuse holder. The factory circuit has a 15 amp fuse and you may not need that high of a fuse rating for your lights. You never specified how many of which model on the instructions you are installing. If you require a fuse of less than 15 amps then you will need a fuse of 5 or 10 amps to provide the proper cutoff point to protect the lights. If you later decide to add more lights on the same switch and the total load requires less than 15 amps you should protect each with a fuse of the recommended rating to be safe. If you prefer to stay with the factory fuse only you change the fuse in the power distribution center to a lower rating but never exceed the 15 amp rating because the wire size the factory has in the harness will get excessively hot and a fire could result. Nothing worse than burning down you Jeep.
You answered my question too I believe, I'm going to leave my inline fuse between my CB and the "direct to battery" aux wire of the jeep for added protection.
 

EsTxDr

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The only connections you need will be the black (negative) and red (positive). Delete everything from the provided switch to the back with the exception of the fuse holder. Here is the reason you will want to keep the fuse holder. The factory circuit has a 15 amp fuse and you may not need that high of a fuse rating for your lights. You never specified how many of which model on the instructions you are installing. If you require a fuse of less than 15 amps then you will need a fuse of 5 or 10 amps to provide the proper cutoff point to protect the lights. If you later decide to add more lights on the same switch and the total load requires less than 15 amps you should protect each with a fuse of the recommended rating to be safe. If you prefer to stay with the factory fuse only you change the fuse in the power distribution center to a lower rating but never exceed the 15 amp rating because the wire size the factory has in the harness will get excessively hot and a fire could result. Nothing worse than burning down you Jeep.
Great advice, I hadn't thought about that. So basically set it up as provided in that diagram completely. The only change would be that you don't need three wires to connect to your auxiliary switches. You could tape off the other two and leave everything else as seen in the diagram. Am I thinking of that correctly?

Also, I'm installing the rigid d-ss pro drivers led. Much less than 15 amps, I think 3.5 off the top of my head.
 

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I decided to use the red white constant wire and even with the battery completely disconnected it is still providing power to my CB radio and I am completely at a loss as to how this is even possible? Anybody have ideas what's happening here?
 

Rhinebeck01

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I decided to use the red white constant wire and even with the battery completely disconnected it is still providing power to my CB radio and I am completely at a loss as to how this is even possible? Anybody have ideas what's happening here?
@Wojo

The JL has two batteries. Yes, two.

You have the 12v Main battery you can easily see in the engine bay and then a smaller aux (ESS) battery that resides under the power distribution center.

You disconnected just the main battery but left the aux battery connected. Do a forum search and learn about the two batteries, what each one does, quirks and how to disconnect either one or both.

.
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