Aux switches Temporarily Unavailable Battery Charging, when starting jeep..

[sjappers]

Just checking back in. Iv had the cascadia 4x4 30w solar panel connected fir about a week now. It’s been mostly rainy it cloudy weather every day except for one day. A few of those days no driving at all.
I HAVE NOT HAD THIS ERROR MESSAGE APPEAR SINCE.

this appears to have solved the issue for me

good news on the solar panel....I believe my issue was different...I disconnected my power steps for a few days and still kept getting the problem....So ruled them out as a small draw on the battery causing it. I started to get low key fob battery errors also....not just on one but 3 out of 4 key fobs I had...Which means the jeep was having to work hard at searching for and staying connected to the key fobs...I believe that was my problem...I have since replaced all my key fob batteries, and put a good charger on my battery over night...I also think that fact that all of my daily driving consisted of 2x5 miles trips to gym each day (I work at home), and its been cold enough that both my steering wheel and seats heater auto turn on so I was using a lot of power and never really giving jeep time to catch up on charge...have not had any issues in 3 days, and was getting the error every time I started jeep prior...keeping fingers crossed...

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[Yawnie'sPapa]

I appreciate Yawnie your instructions to have both cables attached to the negative post of the main battery removed for purposes of resetting the IBS.

For purposes of charging the ESS battery though, the negative lead of the charger need only be placed on the cable whose distal end is connected to the ESS battery's negative post.

This is the cable of two there whose distal end is not at the body ground on the passenger's front quarter panel.

Which cable is which can be model year specific

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/ess-battery-cable-change.86624/ ...one of the reasons I wished to know the model year in my prior post here.

As to which charger is used, I see your point about a trickle charger being slow but also less likely to overcharge. In your defense you cite use of a full blown charger with the science to not effect such damage.

I respectfully have issues with your tools and methods of determining charge. If the OP takes his multimeter to the main battery without first disconnecting the two batteries the voltage he sees will be a composite of both batteries and less likely to disclose if there's a battery problem and if so which battery (or both) is the culprit. Still more, while a multimeter can detect problems when it shows low voltage, it can also show adequate voltage on a battery with limited ability to deliver and accept charge: hence the load testing against each battery independently that I proposed.

No AGM charger will over-charge. Not sure where you get that. I run a 20 amp charger on mine. They can't over-charge.
No good charger is any more likely to "over-charge" than another. However, a trickle charger is likely to not properly charge a battery that's down below 50%.
A good AGM charger charges in phases - a set amperage rate in one phase, and a set voltage rate in another phase. You can't achieve this with a trickle charger.

I come at this from the point of being in automotive electric systems for decades, not just jumping in as a Jeep owner who has had luck charging batteries.

Read my post again - correctly - you see I mention checking voltages.
You didn't read it - I specifically stated to charge each battery independently and then check the voltage of each after each has sat a while.

Yes, you check the voltage that is a result of the combination of the batteries in parallel to determine over-all condition. It's a decent way to see what the state of charge of the combination is - and if it's low, then you need to follow the other steps I lay out.
Been doing this for years and have worked with many dozens of JT owners on these battery issues.

 

[Yawnie'sPapa]

I happen to have RSE steps too. RSE started shipping toggle switches to install between the battery and the fuse to easily stop the battery drain if you won’t run your Jeep for awhile. Obviously it draws battery when the Jeep is off. It’s supposed to go into sleep mode after 15 minutes but I do think it still uses a slight draw.

When did they start that?

I bought 2 sets - one for my JT and one for our JLU - no toggle switches. All direct wiring to the battery. Bought direct from the company, current date codes.

OTOH, I can't see why they need to be in any mode other than "off" - opening a door CLOSES a switch so why do they need to keep power to the system when at rest?
The magnetic switches are NC, closing the door opens them. Makes little sense they need to be powered at all times since the switches are open with the magnets holding the switch open.

 

[Caliguy]

When did they start that?

I bought 2 sets - one for my JT and one for our JLU - no toggle switches. All direct wiring to the battery. Bought direct from the company, current date codes.

OTOH, I can't see why they need to be in any mode other than "off" - opening a door CLOSES a switch so why do they need to keep power to the system when at rest?
The magnetic switches are NC, closing the door opens them. Makes little sense they need to be powered at all times since the switches are open with the magnets holding the switch open.

I can’t speak as to why it needs to draw power.

they sent me a toggle switch when they had to send a replacement part to fix an issue. I’d say that was back in November. I had another issue a month later and when they sent a replacement part, in the box was another toggle switch

 

[Fudster]

No AGM charger will over-charge. Not sure where you get that. I run a 20 amp charger on mine. They can't over-charge.

that's why I said, " In your defense you cite use of a full blown charger with the science to not effect such damage. "

My concern was the risk for overcharging when a battery charger without such protections is used.

No good charger is any more likely to "over-charge" than another. However, a trickle charger is likely to not properly charge a battery that's down below 50%.

I think you're being so kind that your off. A battery charged considerable more than 50% is still likely not a candidate for tricking charging IMHO. Fortunately the OP, based on his descriptions, couldn't have batteries that low, which is why I believed the trickle charger indicated here.

I come at this from the point of being in automotive electric systems for decades, not just jumping in as a Jeep owner who has had luck charging batteries.

Read my post again - correctly - you see I mention checking voltages.

You didn't read it - I specifically stated to charge each battery independently and then check the voltage of each after each has sat a while.

Wow, I should reread, not you. Okay. You said, " You can charge both batteries together, or separate them and charge each. "

So....no, you didn't "specifically say to charge each battery independently." You presented dual or independent charging as a choice.

But wait, it gets better. You suggest "To charge the batteries independently, you will need to pull the ground cable pair off the top of the IBS.
Ideally, take the IBS off the main battery and set it aside. "

What exactly is a "ground cable pair?" One factory cable on the main battery's negative terminal leads the body ground (i.e. not two of them or "a pair") and the other leads to the ESS battery's negative terminal. Maybe you're calling this later connect a ground as well. Anyway, it is only the latter that requires removal to charge the batteries independently.

Yes, you check the voltage that is a result of the combination of the batteries in parallel to determine over-all condition.

Sorry, I respectfully disagree. The trivial effort of disconnecting the batteries to check their voltage independently would be worth it even if the task wasn't trivial. A bad battery connected in parallel to a good one can be masked by the power of the good one, especially if the bad battery is the smaller ESS one. Checking the batteries connected in parallel may disclose a problem and it may miss one as well. Heck, checking the voltages of the batteries independently may disclose a problem and it may miss one as well, but it is less likely.

The real test of a battery is its ability to delivery and accept charge, that only a load test can reveal...a load test that is done on each battery independently.

A voltage meter can rule in problems and miss others. Strong voltage on a battery that has issues delivering and accepting charge fast enough spells a defective battery.

A load tester on the other hand, IMHO, rules in and out problems.

It's a decent way to see what the state of charge of the combination is - and if it's low, then you need to follow the other steps I lay out.

The problem is that the voltage could read well and their could still be an underlying problem with one of the batteries connected in parallel...see above.

Been doing this for years and have worked with many dozens of JT owners on these battery issues.

I'm afraid sir that we're just going to have to agree to disagree on some points, with no disrespect to your subject matter accumen intended.

 

[MPTee]

Is this a predictor of upcoming battery failure?
i just started getting this message too with nothing newly connected to the electrical system.
My ‘22 JLUR eco diesel is less than a year old with only 27,000 miles on it. Daily driver. Seems a bit early for the batteries to be dying.

 

[onemoreokie]

I recently started getting this message as well on a 2021 3.6. The Jeep has 12,000 miles, lives in a heated garage and gets driven daily. Pretty disapointing that the original battery is possibly on it's way out. I use a tender if it ever sits very long which has been rare.

 

[SouthernJL]

Add me to the list of fairly 'young' Wranglers that are getting this message. I just dropped my '21 off at the dealer yesterday. 26500 miles.

Because I had searched on this forum, I knew this was the same prematurely dying battery issue. The only changes to the electrical system have been:
1. Tazer lite (to change tire size to 37s which I unmarried and removed prior to dealer visit)
2. Aftermarket headlights/tail lights/fog lights/fender lights

Looks like it will be a few days before they can get to my Jeep. The service person assigned to me said there were codes in the system and he gave the warning that if the issue(s) are caused by my aftermarket goodies, the work wouldn't be covered. Told him I understood and that I simply want the dying battery(s) replaced. Here are the codes they discovered:

u1514-Unsure what this is
b16df-tail lights
b16d7-tail lights
p0a1f-Something with the Battery Control Module
p0ac5- Hybrid/EV Battery Temperature Sensor B Circuit

Any opinions on if I have anything to worry about concerning these codes? Aside from the 'Aux disabled' message and start/stop not working because of the battery charging, I hadn't noticed anything else wrong with the Jeep. @Rhinebeck01 or anyone care to chime in?

 

[Rhinebeck01]

Add me to the list of fairly 'young' Wranglers that are getting this message. I just dropped my '21 off at the dealer yesterday. 26500 miles.

Because I had searched on this forum, I knew this was the same prematurely dying battery issue. The only changes to the electrical system have been:
1. Tazer lite (to change tire size to 37s which I unmarried and removed prior to dealer visit)
2. Aftermarket headlights/tail lights/fog lights/fender lights

Looks like it will be a few days before they can get to my Jeep. The service person assigned to me said there were codes in the system and he gave the warning that if the issue(s) are caused by my aftermarket goodies, the work wouldn't be covered. Told him I understood and that I simply want the dying battery(s) replaced. Here are the codes they discovered:

u1514-Unsure what this is
b16df-tail lights
b16d7-tail lights
p0a1f-Something with the Battery Control Module
p0ac5- Hybrid/EV Battery Temperature Sensor B Circuit

Any opinions on if I have anything to worry about concerning these codes? Aside from the 'Aux disabled' message and start/stop not working because of the battery charging, I hadn't noticed anything else wrong with the Jeep. @Rhinebeck01 or anyone care to chime in?

Lets see what the dealer says. Be sure you tell them you want to see a print out for each battery load test. See those and you will know they did in fact load test both batteries.

 

[SouthernJL]

@Rhinebeck01 surprisingly I just received a text from the dealership that the Jeep is ready for pick up. I'm hoping they just decided to replace the batteries without doing any load testing. Otherwise, I can't imagine anything is actually 'fixed' this quickly.

I just dropped it off last night to be on site for the 7am appt this morning. I will call them in a few minutes to discuss when I get off work in a few minutes.

 

[jmccorm]

p0a1f-Something with the Battery Control Module

"Battery Energy Control Module Internal Performance" - I wonder which battery this is for? (Sounds related.)

 

[SouthernJL]

*UPDATE*
They replaced the main battery but not the Aux.

I talked to the service advisor over the phone about knowing both batteries should be replaced when one of them is dead/dying since they siphon off of each other, shortening the life expectancy of the 'good' battery. He said they couldn't replace the Aux under warranty because it tested fine. So I took him at his word.

However when I picked up the Jeep, the paperwork only mentions the main battery was tested but doesn't say anything about the Aux. Since the notes were written by the tech, it's possible he tested it, it was fine and just didn't mention it. Or it's possible that he only tested the main. I have no way of knowing at this point. I picked up the Jeep after hrs so there was no one there to clarify this.

But the Jeep rides fine now, no more battery charging alerts and stop/start works again. There was also no mention of if the codes were cleared now or not.

Initially, the service guy forgot this was warranty work so he quoted me the price....$455 bucks. Wild how much replacing a battery would cost at the dealership. Of course it ended up being $0.

@Rhinebeck01

 

[Rhinebeck01]

*UPDATE*
They replaced the main battery but not the Aux.

I talked to the service advisor over the phone about knowing both batteries should be replaced when one of them is dead/dying since they siphon off of each other, shortening the life expectancy of the 'good' battery. He said they couldn't replace the Aux under warranty because it tested fine. So I took him at his word.

However when I picked up the Jeep, the paperwork only mentions the main battery was tested but doesn't say anything about the Aux. Since the notes were written by the tech, it's possible he tested it, it was fine and just didn't mention it. Or it's possible that he only tested the main. I have no way of knowing at this point. I picked up the Jeep after hrs so there was no one there to clarify this.

But the Jeep rides fine now, no more battery charging alerts and stop/start works again. There was also no mention of if the codes were cleared now or not.

Initially, the service guy forgot this was warranty work so he quoted me the price....$455 bucks. Wild how much replacing a battery would cost at the dealership. Of course it ended up being $0.

@Rhinebeck01

@SouthernJL

Were I you, I would today ... bypass the Aux battery. Takes less then 10 min. to do.

 

[SouthernJL]

@SouthernJL

Were I you, I would today ... bypass the Aux battery. Takes less then 10 min. to do.

I've glanced at the bypass posts but never really took the time to look into the details. After reading through a couple it does look really quick and easy. I think I'll do that today as you suggested.

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