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DHW

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There's no ESS on the etorque.
Pretty sure mine has both. It definitely has ESS and this is the engine code on my sticker sheet: 2.0L I4 DOHC DI Turbo eTorque Engine
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Gregj

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It does have ESS just executed differently, it uses the BSG to restart at the end of the ESS event. It is much smoother than the more traditional system that uses the starter.

Gregj
 
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DHW

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It does have ESS just executed differently, it uses the BSG to restart at the end of the ESS event. It is much smoother than the more traditional system that uses the starter.

Gregj
Cool, thanks for the info. And you're correct, I was given another Jeep as a loaner one time and my 2.0 ESS was leaps and bounds smoother than it was.
 

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If anyone is looking for .... A 1/4-Inch Drive Star Socket, Female Torx to use in regard to you Aux battery change, here is the least expensive set that I have seen for a set of Star Sockets ....Only $5.99.

https://www.amazon.com/EOHM-5Pcs-Female-Socket-Drive/dp/B07251MMXF/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=1/4-Inch+Drive+Star+Socket+Female+Torx+Socket,+e6&qid=1638975340&sr=8-9

ttt.jpg
Since we only need E6 and I tend to lose s%#$, I ordered the 2 pack below for $5.89:

https://www.amazon.com/Utoolmart-Ch...=p_85:2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&sr=8-7
 

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gato

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DHW

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I went ahead and replaced my battery yesterday with the Ultra Premium whatever from O'Reilly's. No issues, but I've noticed that when the ESS/BSG activates and the Jeep turns off, the volts drop from 14.2ish to 13.7ish. Then goes back to normal when the Jeep starts back up. Can anyone confirm this is how it's supposed to operate? Pretty sure I just didn't pay attention before, but with the OEM battery I seem to remember the voltage staying the same on the readout whether it was running or off due to ESS/BSG.
 

Gregj

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I went ahead and replaced my battery yesterday with the Ultra Premium whatever from O'Reilly's. No issues, but I've noticed that when the ESS/BSG activates and the Jeep turns off, the volts drop from 14.2ish to 13.7ish. Then goes back to normal when the Jeep starts back up. Can anyone confirm this is how it's supposed to operate? Pretty sure I just didn't pay attention before, but with the OEM battery I seem to remember the voltage staying the same on the readout whether it was running or off due to ESS/BSG.
Completely normal. I replaced the battery in the Off Duty Supervisors Jeep yesterday too, same battery.
Gregj
 
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DHW

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Yep. I made an appointment 2 weeks out, battery died the day before appointment. It took a few hours, but without appointment, I would have been in trouble myself. Odds are, your dealer sucks and will not give you a rental/loaner. I didn't want to deal with the dealership just for batteries, but I also wanted the cost to come out of Jeep's pocket, not mine.
Just giving you and everyone else a heads up, I bought and changed out my own battery while it was still under the 3/36 warranty only because the service dept was going to have the Jeep for a week just to replace the battery. Sent my receipt to Jeep Customer Care and told them about the "battery needs to charge" messages I was getting. They are reimbursing me for the new battery since it was under warranty.

Worth looking into for those in the same predicament I was.
 
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BobW

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Just giving you and everyone else a heads up, I bought and changed out my own battery while it was still under the 3/36 warranty only because the service dept was going to have the Jeep for a week just to replace the battery. Sent my receipt to Jeep Customer Care and told them about the "battery needs to charge" messages I was getting. They are reimbursing me for the new battery since it was under warranty.

Worth looking into for those in the same predicament I was.
Interesting. To fix "stop/start not ready" problem, the local dealer ultimately replaced main battery, under warranty, ... after 2+ weeks of diagnosis and [???].
 

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DHW

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Just giving you and everyone else a heads up, I bought and changed out my own battery while it was still under the 3/36 warranty only because the service dept was going to have the Jeep for a week just to replace the battery. Sent my receipt to Jeep Customer Care and told them about the "battery needs to charge" messages I was getting. They are reimbursing me for the new battery since it was under warranty.

Worth looking into for those in the same predicament I was.
Well this saga has proceeded about as expected from the nincompoops at Jeep Customer Care. I got the check for my battery reimbursement and deposited it. All good. 5 days later Customer Care puts a stop payment on the check, which takes the money out of my bank account and charges me a $15 fee. I've called customer care 4 times, no one can tell me why the stop payment was done. They all say I need to talk to the case manager who handled it initially and she's been unavailable all goddam day.
 
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Has anyone actually removed just the liner to get to the aux battery. It may seem a little more tedious but plastic rivets are really easy to get on amazon
 

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Has anyone actually removed just the liner to get to the aux battery. It may seem a little more tedious but plastic rivets are really easy to get on amazon
I may tinker with this later this week. I had to order a replacement battery and it should be in on Friday. I plan to put the XR fender extensions on soon anyway so I may as well get used to what it looks like to mess with those rivets versus pulling the whole fender (though I have new fender clips in preparation for it anyway).

You need this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FW3TF9Q

and this - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007QV2E50
 
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Rhinebeck01

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Has anyone actually removed just the liner to get to the aux battery. It may seem a little more tedious but plastic rivets are really easy to get on amazon
@Wkaz

I have done the deed a few times.. I prefer to pull the flare but have done as the Dealer Tech's do and peel back the fender liner. I will not do the dismantle PDC way which is the foolish way.

You do not remove the fender liner. You remove a few plastic rivets and then you peel back the fender liner enough so you do not damage the liner but can get in / get to the Aux and do the swap. Peel it back and use a bungee cord to hold it back... out of your way. Out of your way so you can work..

You can get a cheapo rivet gun that comes with rivets at Harbor Freight... Not expensive at all.

I can tell someone has fooled with the stock plastic rivets .... You do the flare pull way and there are no telltale signs that the deed was done... Also, better visualization and access with flare pull in my opinion.
 

JJJEEEEEEPPP

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Thanks @Rhinebeck01 and everyone for these detailed instructions. You helped me learn and saved me from giving my money to the dealership. I was able to change the AUX battery in 1.5hrs, broke 3 clips along the way but thanks again to all comments in this thread, I had already purchased them from Quadratech. They are now $2 a piece.
It was super easy to remove the fenders.
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