Aux Battery Cables

[mbrose1994]

The high current Z-Case fuse array connects N2 through N8. The fuse array is then connected to N1 via N3 (though the PCR can break this connection). Therefore, all the power sources are capable of powering the Jeep electronics at N1 via their connection to the fuse array and the fuse array's connection to N1. That's the way electricity works.

Yes, makes sense. Therefore:

• A single battery (CRANK) setup
• that eliminates the OEM AUX battery and cables
• COULD be achieved by
  • CRANK battery POS on N1 (power to some Jeep stuff)
  • Jump N1 to N2 (power to rest of Jeep stuff)
  • N2 powers Z-Case fuse array

Any issues with this setup?

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[THAW]

Yes, makes sense. Therefore:

• A single battery (CRANK) setup
• that eliminates the OEM AUX battery and cables
• COULD be achieved by
  • CRANK battery POS on N1 (power to some Jeep stuff)
  • Jump N1 to N2 (power to rest of Jeep stuff)
  • N2 powers Z-Case fuse array

Any issues with this setup?

I suppose it'll work, but it's a strange way to do it without advantage. Also, the N2 terminal connector on the CR[an]K battery positive cable isn't keyed for N1.

 

[Mguy]

Yes, makes sense. Therefore:

• A single battery (CRANK) setup
• that eliminates the OEM AUX battery and cables
• COULD be achieved by
  • CRANK battery POS on N1 (power to some Jeep stuff)
  • Jump N1 to N2 (power to rest of Jeep stuff)
  • N2 powers Z-Case fuse array

Any issues with this setup?

In addition to Thaw's post 77, I commented about your proposed "solution" in post 54 with the same caution about hardware. Others answered in posts 53 and 56. Whatever problems you have with known working mods that you are avoiding, those problems are not likely to be solved with mere persistence here.

Could be your Jeep has something more fundamentally wrong, or maybe just an ISB reset, or maybe even just a code that needs clearing. A lesson for those still using an aux battery. Best of luck.

 

[mbrose1994]

Could be your Jeep has something more fundamentally wrong, or maybe just an ISB reset, or maybe even just a code that needs clearing. A lesson for those still using an aux battery. Best of luck.

Thank you for your, and everyone else's expertise and advise, I appreciate it.
This weekend should be either a bust or roaring success.
Either way, I will report results.

 

[THAW]

Not so, bold clause above confuses. The aux battery is electrically isolated simply by disconnecting it's negative. F42 is on the positive side of the circuit. Removal of F42 assures that the aux battery positive stock wiring continues to power N1 (and keep nuisance imaging off the dash) by keeping the PCR always closed.

Not so, bold clause above confuses. Fuse F42 is on a separate circuit.

 

[azjl#3]

I'm new to the JL generation, so I didn't know much about the engines except that I didn't want diesel or the 2.0. So, I went with the 3.6 with e-Torque. BIG mistake. Had I known at purchase what I know now about not being able to bypass the aux because of the e-Torque, I would have NEVER bought the e-Torque engine. I'm now constantly worried about about that damn aux battery
From what I've read, there doesn't appear to be any way around bypassing the auxiliary battery because of the e-Torque.

uhhhh, etorqe has no aux battery, the 48v is the aux.

 

[SmokyMtnsJeepGirl]

uhhhh, etorqe has no aux battery, the 48v is the aux.

Yeah, a few of the members here were kind enough to educate me on this, but without the snark.
Just trying to learn.

 

[mbrose1994]

... I commented about your proposed "solution" in post 54 with the same caution about hardware.

Thank you for your comments in post 54, but my electrical troubles started after doing the "easy" Aux battery fix (NEG off, taped, pulled F42).

I my case, the ESS came back to life. And then the "electrical storms" began.
The Aux battery POS cables connected N1 and N3 behave as if current continues to push thru to the Crank battery NEG terminal.

 

[THAW]

Thank you for your comments in post 54, but my electrical troubles started after doing the "easy" Aux battery fix (NEG off, taped, pulled F42).

I my case, the ESS came back to life. And then the "electrical storms" began.
The Aux battery POS cables connected N1 and N3 behave as if current continues to push thru to the Crank battery NEG terminal.

Did you ever check resting voltage of the CR[an]K battery?

 

[mbrose1994]

Did you ever check resting voltage of the CR[an]K battery?

Yes, and found CRK battery was dying. I replaced it, and no change, 2 more electrical storms happened after new battery. Seems some thread in here spoke about the propensity of the Aux battery to pull down the CRK battery. I have the Jeep dead in garage with POS and NEG off the new CRK battery. Now is matter of doing something different/better and finding out results.

 

[THAW]

Yes, and found CRK battery was dying. I replaced it, and no change, 2 more electrical storms happened after new battery. Seems some thread in here spoke about the propensity of the Aux battery to pull down the CRK battery. I have the Jeep dead in garage with POS and NEG off the new CRK battery. Now is matter of doing something different/better and finding out results.

What are the "electrical storm" symptoms?

 

[mbrose1994]

What are the "electrical storm" symptoms?

Many: while driving normally, suddenly:

• wipers turn on
• dash flickers, speed indicator show 0, surges up and down
• power steering fades in and out
• fuel level indicator falls to 0, rises up and down
• fuel delivery seems to fade, vehicle speed reduced, reduced response to increased pedal pressure
• traction service light turns ON
• service engine light turns ON
• other dash warning lights turn ON

Or: parked, start engine

• same dash craziness, warning lights
• cannot shift out of Park

 

[THAW]

Many: while driving normally, suddenly:

• wipers turn on
• dash flickers, speed indicator show 0, surges up and down
• power steering fades in and out
• fuel level indicator falls to 0, rises up and down
• fuel delivery seems to fade, vehicle speed reduced, reduced response to increased pedal pressure
• traction service light turns ON
• service engine light turns ON
• other dash warning lights turn ON

Or: parked, start engine

• same dash craziness, warning lights
• cannot shift out of Park

Do you have a way to check codes? Are there any?

You need to check your grounds - there's info in other threads about where/how to check some that occasionally cause issues.

Otherwise, it may be an issue with the CAN bus.

 

[mbrose1994]

Do you have a way to check codes? Are there any?

You need to check your grounds - there's info in other threads about where/how to check some that occasionally cause issues.

Otherwise, it may be an issue with the CAN bus.

That is new, will check grounds out, good call.
Yes, in this thread have couple CAN bus tips to do too.
Looking like the Jeep stays in the garage all weekend.
But will be worth it to excise the crazy storm thing.

 

[ScotM]

Many: while driving normally, suddenly:

• wipers turn on
• dash flickers, speed indicator show 0, surges up and down
• power steering fades in and out
• fuel level indicator falls to 0, rises up and down
• fuel delivery seems to fade, vehicle speed reduced, reduced response to increased pedal pressure
• traction service light turns ON
• service engine light turns ON
• other dash warning lights turn ON

Or: parked, start engine

• same dash craziness, warning lights
• cannot shift out of Park

A lot of those symptoms are can bus issues behind glove box . Unfortunately, my opinion is not from personal experience, but from seeing those same symptoms posted and the eventual fix was the can bus. Especially if you haven’t monkeyed with anything electrical. Hope you can solve it.

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