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Audio Build - My neighbors are gonna hate me

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DavidRam

DavidRam

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David, were you not satisfied with your Hutchinson sub, or are you just restless and want a project?
Wanting a project, mostly! ;)

But I really want to be able to compare the differences back to back, and "know" what my favorite box/sub type is.
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Ok, so I fired it up, and here are my initial impressions BEFORE touching anything in the tune:
The two 12s easily have the same or more output than the Hutchinson. Also, without even measuring I can tell they have a much flatter frequency response, they neither peak nor fall off much anywhere to my ears...

I think I have come to the conclusion that I like the sound of sealed better than ported. To me it seems tighter, cleaner, more precise, etc..

I'll start building the box for the 15" next week.

Here it is:

IMG-20210113-160043439.jpg
 

AusJeepNoob

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Ok, so I fired it up, and here are my initial impressions BEFORE touching anything in the tune:
The two 12s easily have the same or more output than the Hutchinson. Also, without even measuring I can tell they have a much flatter frequency response, they neither peak nor fall off much anywhere to my ears...

I think I have come to the conclusion that I like the sound of sealed better than ported. To me it seems tighter, cleaner, more precise, etc..

I'll start building the box for the 15" next week.

Here it is:

Jeep Wrangler JL Audio Build - My neighbors are gonna hate me IMG-20210113-160043439
I had the reverse happen with my first system 20+ years ago. 3 x JL Audio 10W6s in a 3cuft sealed box had a fairly flat response but wasn't loud enough for me (128.4db) so we added ports to the same box. Flattened the response, extended how low it went and picked up 5.2db. Surrounds on the subs have long since perished but the PPI A600.2 that was driving them is still around and kicking in my current car.

I won't be going as far as you with my JL. Wife has said I'm not allowed a separate box so for stage 1 I bought a Digital Designs SL710 to go in the factory enclosure (0.55cuft). I need to build a baffle for it and it will protude a bit but should be a bit louder and hopefully go lower than the factory Alpine sub. Need to find a small chassis amp to fit under the seat as the PPI is too big and I use the rear cargo tub a lot. Sub is rated to 800WRMS so somewhere around that if you have any suggestions. I don't think the 50W per channel of the factory amp is going to cut it :). Going to use the Pac Audio interface so I can retain the UConnect 8.4.

Stage 2 I'll replace the front speakers but don't know what I'm going to go with yet. To me the factory setup is too bright so I want something more natural sounding. I listened to some really nice AVIs the other week but $$$$$.
 

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I had the reverse happen with my first system 20+ years ago. 3 x JL Audio 10W6s in a 3cuft sealed box had a fairly flat response but wasn't loud enough for me (128.4db) so we added ports to the same box. Flattened the response, extended how low it went and picked up 5.2db. Surrounds on the subs have long since perished but the PPI A600.2 that was driving them is still around and kicking in my current car.

I won't be going as far as you with my JL. Wife has said I'm not allowed a separate box so for stage 1 I bought a Digital Designs SL710 to go in the factory enclosure (0.55cuft). I need to build a baffle for it and it will protude a bit but should be a bit louder and hopefully go lower than the factory Alpine sub. Need to find a small chassis amp to fit under the seat as the PPI is too big and I use the rear cargo tub a lot. Sub is rated to 800WRMS so somewhere around that if you have any suggestions. I don't think the 50W per channel of the factory amp is going to cut it :). Going to use the Pac Audio interface so I can retain the UConnect 8.4.

Stage 2 I'll replace the front speakers but don't know what I'm going to go with yet. To me the factory setup is too bright so I want something more natural sounding. I listened to some really nice AVIs the other week but $$$$$.
The Kicker CX800 is a solid choice at $250. It's probably what I'm going to pick up to drive the subs in my build. If you wire that sub to 1 ohm it'll push 800 watts, and I've only had and heard good experience with kicker amps. For more natural sound, check out Morel. You don't have to get the ones David here used, they sell some nice affordable comps for under 500 a set. Check out the Maximus 602, maximo ultra 602 and 603, and the tempo ultra 602 for some more affordable options. In my personally opinion, the DSR1 brings much better value than the PAC. Especially if you are keeping the 8.4, a DSP is basically required since there's so little tuning abilities on these Uconnect units. DSR1 is a DSP with a maestro module built in, allowing factory amp and speaker replacement while keeping the factory head unit. Make sure to stop by my build thread for a more budget minded sound quality build.

David, amazing work here. I'd build it out basically the same if I had the cash laying around lmao. Semi jealous.
 
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DavidRam

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The Kicker CX800 is a solid choice at $250. It's probably what I'm going to pick up to drive the subs in my build. If you wire that sub to 1 ohm it'll push 800 watts, and I've only had and heard good experience with kicker amps. For more natural sound, check out Morel. You don't have to get the ones David here used, they sell some nice affordable comps for under 500 a set. Check out the Maximus 602, maximo ultra 602 and 603, and the tempo ultra 602 for some more affordable options. In my personally opinion, the DSR1 brings much better value than the PAC. Especially if you are keeping the 8.4, a DSP is basically required since there's so little tuning abilities on these Uconnect units. DSR1 is a DSP with a maestro module built in, allowing factory amp and speaker replacement while keeping the factory head unit. Make sure to stop by my build thread for a more budget minded sound quality build.

David, amazing work here. I'd build it out basically the same if I had the cash laying around lmao. Semi jealous.

Thanks! Once I've decided on the final, "best" set up I'll carpet the winning box and add the usual lighting, etc..
 
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Got started on the box for the 15". You can see how tight the depth is and how hard it is to get 3.4 cuft in a 2 door Wrangler trunk... That board is the back panel to the box.

IMG-20210119-124210781.jpg


IMG-20210119-145326900.jpg


IMG-20210119-145408035.jpg


IMG-20210119-145507344.jpg
 

LSguy

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Hey which ever you decide to keep, I'll take the others off your hands no problem lmao.
 

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Got started on the box for the 15". You can see how tight the depth is and how hard it is to get 3.4 cuft in a 2 door Wrangler trunk... That board is the back panel to the box.

Jeep Wrangler JL Audio Build - My neighbors are gonna hate me IMG-20210119-145507344


Jeep Wrangler JL Audio Build - My neighbors are gonna hate me IMG-20210119-145507344


Jeep Wrangler JL Audio Build - My neighbors are gonna hate me IMG-20210119-145507344


Jeep Wrangler JL Audio Build - My neighbors are gonna hate me IMG-20210119-145507344
Do you really need a back seat more than you need bass :)
 

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True. For some reason I'm a huge 2 door fan, though.
Curious your thoughts on Morel vs Focal? Looking at a 2door again and was wanting to do a somewhat custom sound system. Utilizing stock locations if possible. And just one amp. Small but powerful.
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