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At the end of my rope of steering issues.***FIXED!****

GregorioJL

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The stiff steering stabilizers are there to mask or shroud something that’s already not working properly.

You might ask what one of your aftermarket suppliers has to say. The top shelf mfrs will have degreed engineers who calculate the loads generated by their systems.

Good luck! You’ll figure it out.
100% this. When the symptom occurs, stabilizer(s) may diminish the wobble, but the real problem is the steering box design is not very robust. Also the forces on the location where it is bolted in, the sway bar is also bolted in there so there is a significant amount of stress on that area. The procedure to tighten the bolts are also a bit fudgy, which may explain why some people have a better ride when they are tightened up.
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Well........unfortunately I was driving the Jeep today and had the wobble after hitting a decent bump at about 45. Haven’t touched it since the last time I drove it. The only change since then is outside temperature, it was in the teens today.
 

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Well........unfortunately I was driving the Jeep today and had the wobble after hitting a decent bump at about 45. Haven’t touched it since the last time I drove it. The only change since then is outside temperature, it was in the teens today.
I had death wobble that would only present itself below freezing, full on death wobble. It turned out to be a fairly new new track bar I had installed (about 1000 miles on it), the kind with a heim joint at the axle side. Cleared up as soon as I put on a new track bar with traditional style rubber bushings (synergy) at each end. I believe there was just enough play in the heim joint at low temps to let the wobble start. I replaced damn near the whole Jeep before I got back to the track bar, because "I just f'king installed that one!". 15,000 miles later it still hasn't come back. I've also had tires that would cause some wobble over bumps at low temps (different vehicle), the sidewalls were just too stiff to flex when it was that cold out, that one I just lived with and used a different tire when it was time to change them. Sorry man, I know how you feel, it really sucks to chase these kinds of problems in circles.
 
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I had death wobble that would only present itself below freezing, full on death wobble. It turned out to be a fairly new new track bar I had installed (about 1000 miles on it), the kind with a heim joint at the axle side. Cleared up as soon as I put on a new track bar with traditional style rubber bushings (synergy) at each end. I believe there was just enough play in the heim joint at low temps to let the wobble start. I replaced damn near the whole Jeep before I got back to the track bar, because "I just f'king installed that one!". 15,000 miles later it still hasn't come back. I've also had tires that would cause some wobble over bumps at low temps (different vehicle), the sidewalls were just too stiff to flex when it was that cold out, that one I just lived with and used a different tire when it was time to change them. Sorry man, I know how you feel, it really sucks to chase these kinds of problems in circles.
I just took off a Synergy bar a few weeks ago that only had a few 1000 miles and swapped out to a Clayton to match the rest of the suspension. I honestly think it may be the tires.
 

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I just took off a Synergy bar a few weeks ago that only had a few 1000 miles and swapped out to a Clayton to match the rest of the suspension. I honestly think it may be the tires.
The tires I had were BFG's also, I know alot of people love them but I never had anything but problems with them over several sets on my old truck and poorunner. Wouldn't balance, sidewalls too stiff, sidewall punctures, wear issues. I swore them off about 15 years ago, maybe the newer ones are better, i'll never know because i'm not rolling the dice on them again. If you lived closer I'd let you try out my wheels and tires to help narrow down the problem.
 

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The tires I had were BFG's also, I know alot of people love them but I never had anything but problems with them over several sets on my old truck and poorunner. Wouldn't balance, sidewalls too stiff, sidewall punctures, wear issues. I swore them off about 15 years ago, maybe the newer ones are better, i'll never know because i'm not rolling the dice on them again. If you lived closer I'd let you try out my wheels and tires to help narrow down the problem.
Thats part of my issue right now, I don’t think the Rusty’s steering will clear a stock backspacing and that’s the only other set of wheels and tires I might be able to get access to. The only other guy I know has a set of 37’s Coopers and they are torn to crap from wheeling. I don’t think they would do me any good to throw them on. Most of the guys in the area are running Tj’s.

I had issues with BFG’s in the past but went back to them because I was looking for something somewhat quiet on the highway. And they are also the lightest 35 in a C load.
 
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I must admit 5 gallons of gas and a highway flare is sounding more and more appealing with this thing on a daily basis. I have screwed around with wobble like this dozens of times and was ALWAYS able to figure out what the deal was. Everything on this thing is tight, no movement anywhere, and literally have replaced everything that normally causes it. About the only thing left in the crappy factory steering is the aluminum knuckles. I am waiting for the Reid racing ones to ship and they will be gone here soon. I am really regretting selling my Lj to get this thing.
 
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So thinking about this some more it seems as if the wobble/shimmy is only happening when you hit a bump that involves both tires at pretty much the same time like a pavement buckle. It doesn’t seem like a bump involving one tire had set it off since backing off on the SS. I’m running all of the Clayton arms in the Jeep, anyone think it might have something to do with the difference in hardness of the control arm bushing vs the two remaining factory bushings in the housing? Jeep has 12k and has been wheeled but nothing crazy so I would be hard pressed to believe I tore them up. So they are probably solid just possibly softer?
 

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I must admit 5 gallons of gas and a highway flare is sounding more and more appealing with this thing on a daily basis. I have screwed around with wobble like this dozens of times and was ALWAYS able to figure out what the deal was. Everything on this thing is tight, no movement anywhere, and literally have replaced everything that normally causes it. About the only thing left in the crappy factory steering is the aluminum knuckles. I am waiting for the Reid racing ones to ship and they will be gone here soon. I am really regretting selling my Lj to get this thing.
I feel your pain. I have talked to others who were able to tighten up the pitman arm nut 1-2 turns, just make seated its seated all the way on.
The other thing to try is breaking the nut loose on the steering box preload adjuster. Have to use heat on it because t has the green wicking Loctite, I used a very small hand held torch that you can get at Homedepot or Amazon, I believe the nut was 15mm or 18mm and the socket set screw was 7mm. I had put reference marks in the steering box, and on the nut and on the screw so I could always go back to where it was set from the factory. I went about a quarter turn in on the screw and locked it down with the nut and took it for a test drive and the steering was so much better.
I returned it back to where it was from the factory and the steering went right back to having issues.
I changed it back to where I set it at a quarter turn and used red Loctite on the nut

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-6-in-Automatic-Center-Punch-70079H/302880581
 
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I feel your pain. I have talked to others who were able to tighten up the pitman arm nut 1-2 turns, just make seated its seated all the way on.
The other thing to try is breaking the nut loose on the steering box preload adjuster. Have to use heat on it because t has the green wicking Loctite, I used a very small hand held torch that you can get at Homedepot or Amazon, I believe the nut was 15mm or 18mm and the socket set screw was 7mm. I had put reference marks in the steering box, and on the nut and on the screw so I could always go back to where it was set from the factory. I went about a quarter turn in on the screw and locked it down with the nut and took it for a test drive and the steering was so much better.
I returned it back to where it was from the factory and the steering went right back to having issues.
I changed it back to where I set it at a quarter turn and used red Loctite on the nut

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-6-in-Automatic-Center-Punch-70079H/302880581
I believe you still had the aluminum box when you did that. I have the new steel box and there has been no known issues with that box. I have little to no slop in this box, when I turn the wheel the sector shaft moves instantly.
 

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i changed out the steering stabilizer from the OEM, just to see if it would change much, but i've yet to do anything besides put 35" tires and beadlocks on the jeep, suspension wise. i put a king stabilizer on, and it has the same resistance both directions...
  1. A steering stabilizer has equal resistance in both directions
  2. A properly valved off road shock will have more compression resistance than a typical road shock
  3. A properly valved high performance road shock will have more rebound resistance than a typical road shock
The steering stabilizer is there to control high speed movement of the tie rod. It serves no other purpose. High speed movement would be tire shimmy, death wobble, loose or worn joints, or steering box wear.
 

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I believe you still had the aluminum box when you did that. I have the new steel box and there has been no known issues with that box. I have little to no slop in this box, when I turn the wheel the sector shaft moves instantly.
I beg to differ. I am scheduled to have a second TSB iron steering box fitted next week. This was coordinated by Jeep Cares with a FCA case number assigned.

The TSB iron box (first install) had 2" of center slop from Day 1. The dealership has adjusted, tightened, realigned and was able to eliminate 1" of play. They tried their best over 6 repair sessions. FCA is now going to replace the TSB box with either a new one or a special one - don't know - but I'm not the only one who has seen little to no improvement over the OE aluminum box with the TSB iron box.
 
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I beg to differ. I am scheduled to have a second TSB iron steering box fitted next week. This was coordinated by Jeep Cares with a FCA case number assigned.

The TSB iron box (first install) had 2" of center slop from Day 1. The dealership has adjusted, tightened, realigned and was able to eliminate 1" of play. They tried their best over 6 repair sessions. FCA is now going to replace the TSB box with either a new one or a special one - don't know - but I'm not the only one who has seen little to no improvement over the OE aluminum box with the TSB iron box.
I beg to differ. I am scheduled to have a second TSB iron steering box fitted next week. This was coordinated by Jeep Cares with a FCA case number assigned.

The TSB iron box (first install) had 2" of center slop from Day 1. The dealership has adjusted, tightened, realigned and was able to eliminate 1" of play. They tried their best over 6 repair sessions. FCA is now going to replace the TSB box with either a new one or a special one - don't know - but I'm not the only one who has seen little to no improvement over the OE aluminum box with the TSB iron box.
I have no issues with a dead spot or any wandering.
 

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I had my dealership install the steersmart yeti frame side track bar reinforcement bracket when they replace my steering box. They did it for no charge. And it seems to stop my death wobble issue. Order it from Northridge 170$ it could help you
 
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I had my dealership install the steersmart yeti frame side track bar reinforcement bracket when they replace my steering box. They did it for no charge. And it seems to stop my death wobble issue. Order it from Northridge 170$ it could help you
Already done, listed in my first post.
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