At the end of my rope of steering issues.***Updated***

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Jeep&Dogs, so your adjustable S.S. was adj. too firm and causing your slight wobble ?
That would appear to be the main cause of the issue, I get a
very very minor feedback in the wheel now going over a decent sized bump. Nothing in comparison to what I was getting before, and with a solid axel I don’t know you could ever completely eliminate bump steer 100%. I haven’t done anything to it other than changing the settings on the stabilizer,

It was set at its firmest setting, 22 clicks, I set it to roughly match the firmness of the factory stabilizer which was around 5/6 clicks in. I drove it over the bumps that typically caused it and it still had a shimmy at that setting, I added two clicks in and ran the same roads again and it was 99.9% gone. I might be able to eliminate the very slight amount that is left with another click in but I really was just liking the fact I could drive the Jeep again without wanting to burn it to the ground.





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I have a Fox 2.0 S.S. which I suspect is slightly firmer than stock. It has approx 30,000 miles. I am now wondering if it is showing signs of age. I just started getting a slight wobble and If it proves not to be from tires. Your experience might turn out helpful. thanks for taking the time to post a thread. Cheers
 
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I have a Fox 2.0 S.S. which I suspect is slightly firmer than stock. It has approx 30,000 miles. I am now wondering if it is showing signs of age. I just started getting a slight wobble and If it proves not to be from tires. Your experience might turn out helpful. thanks for taking the time to post a thread. Cheers
I have pretty much always been a firm believer that you don’t even need one if it’s set up right and on any of my old Jeeps I would throw what ever was the least expensive one I could find on there. This is the first time I have ever gone with anything other than stock or some cheap off the wall brand. I pulled the Fox off and drove it with nothing just to see how bad it really was, thinking the stabilizer was masking some of it. Surprisingly it drove much better without one, and then I threw the stock one on and it drove pretty damn good.

I do think the jl may actually NEED some type of stabilizer to control some of the feedback to the wheel, I think the aluminum knuckles contribute to that.
 

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The stiff steering stabilizers are there to mask or shroud something that’s already not working properly.

You might ask what one of your aftermarket suppliers has to say. The top shelf mfrs will have degreed engineers who calculate the loads generated by their systems.

Good luck! You’ll figure it out.
 

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That’s on my list of things to try next. One other thing that comes across as something odd is stabilizer related. I’m trying to find a stock stabilizer to swap out the ats. I have always been a firm believer of if it’s set up right you don’t need one but the Jl seems like it really does.

When the front end is off the ground and you quickly turn the wheel to the left it’s a steady consistent resistance. When you quickly turn it to the right you get about 1” of travel with a low resistance and then it suddenly gets more resistance. It’s almost like the stabilizer has a dead spot to the right.
It doesn’t make a difference on where it is on the shaft but it’s 100% steady resistance to the left and 1” of slack when you turn to the right.
i changed out the steering stabilizer from the OEM, just to see if it would change much, but i've yet to do anything besides put 35" tires and beadlocks on the jeep, suspension wise. i put a king stabilizer on, and it has the same resistance both directions...

i don't know if the fox unit is an emulsion damper, but i strongly suspect it isn't. entrained air in the shock tube might be causing this, but it's more likely you have some play somewhere that is giving you a flutter. i'd be looking at everything i put on, but i'm sure you've been there already.

what would happen if you just took off the damper, and drove it a bit to see what changes?

duh. just read to the end, where you've done that already.
 

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All - looking for guidance.. I have a stock JLU Sahara with 33” Rubicon tires and wheels. I am on my 3rd steering gear (stock, new aluminum and steel) and still don’t feel my steering is where I want it to be. Tracks decent but still some pull to right and has a dead spot more than I like. I feel the steering is a bit light for my taste. My caster is 5.3 and tire pressure 34-36 psi. I did notice my new steel box has two of the old bolts on it versus all four black ones.

I am thinking about a modification that can help with steering concerns but don’t want to go hydraulic or replace everything. What would you consider the top priority to replace from my list below:

1) steering stabilizer - fox or falcon through shaft - I know a SS doesn’t necessarily change steering significantly but I am wondering if it could reduce the right hand pull and add a bit more resistance to the steering

2) new trackbar - yeti or teraflex

3) Mopar LCAs - guessing this would out my caster at 6.8 which I wonder is too high without a lift

I anticipate a 1.5-2.5 lift in the future but probably 6 months out
 

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I know there are a few posts about this and I have read through every one at least a dozen times. I’m also not new to Jeeps, I have had a few Tj’s and built a few Lj’s before going to the JL platform. I have dealt with steering and suspension issues plenty of times but for some reason I can’t get the shimmy/wobble issues fixed on this damn thing.

2020 JLUR with 12k on it and no issues until a few months ago, had the tires rebalanced and installed the Dynatrac lift right about the same time. That’s when I started getting a wobble going over bumps or washboard sections of road. Not full on death wobble but a shimmy that lasts past the initial bump in the road.

The Jeep has the following:

Dynatrac lift
Clayton control arms (8)
Clayton front track bar (also had a Synergy on it)
Rock Crawler rear track bar
Rusty’s steel steering system
Dana HD ball joints
Synergy Track bar brace
New cast iron box
BFG KO2’s 35’s
Fox Race stabilizer


Caster is at 7 right now, I have tried 6,6.2,6.5,6.8,7.2
Toe is right around 1/16-0
Tire pressure cold is 28
Both axels are centered within 1/8
I have torqued and re torqued everything at least 10 times
If I do another dry steer test I am likely to set it on fire.
road force balanced the tires 5 times (They re

Other than the shimmy/wobble the thing drives absolutely fantastic. The shimmy honestly feels more pronounced when you first start driving the Jeep, as things heat up or settle in from driving it seems to calm down a bit. Big bumps don’t really seem to effect it much, smaller dips and bumps in a row are what seem to trigger it. Also grooved concrete seems to make it more pronounced.

What the hell am I missing???? I’m about at the point I am going to try replacing the tires but I’m not sure that is going to do it. I have thrown way too much time and money in this thing over the last two months. I sold a mint well built Lj to get this thing because I was tired of projects, I worked less on that than I do this thing and I literally rebuilt that thing from the ground up.
Try reducing the caster to 4 - 5 degrees. At 7 degree you’re really putting strain on the system and the slightest tolerance will set up a harmonic. Currie used to have a tech paper on caster for oversized tires that covered this in detail.
 

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I know there are a few posts about this and I have read through every one at least a dozen times. I’m also not new to Jeeps, I have had a few Tj’s and built a few Lj’s before going to the JL platform. I have dealt with steering and suspension issues plenty of times but for some reason I can’t get the shimmy/wobble issues fixed on this damn thing.

2020 JLUR with 12k on it and no issues until a few months ago, had the tires rebalanced and installed the Dynatrac lift right about the same time. That’s when I started getting a wobble going over bumps or washboard sections of road. Not full on death wobble but a shimmy that lasts past the initial bump in the road.

The Jeep has the following:

Dynatrac lift
Clayton control arms (8)
Clayton front track bar (also had a Synergy on it)
Rock Crawler rear track bar
Rusty’s steel steering system
Dana HD ball joints
Synergy Track bar brace
New cast iron box
BFG KO2’s 35’s
Fox Race stabilizer


Caster is at 7 right now, I have tried 6,6.2,6.5,6.8,7.2
Toe is right around 1/16-0
Tire pressure cold is 28
Both axels are centered within 1/8
I have torqued and re torqued everything at least 10 times
If I do another dry steer test I am likely to set it on fire.
road force balanced the tires 5 times (They re

Other than the shimmy/wobble the thing drives absolutely fantastic. The shimmy honestly feels more pronounced when you first start driving the Jeep, as things heat up or settle in from driving it seems to calm down a bit. Big bumps don’t really seem to effect it much, smaller dips and bumps in a row are what seem to trigger it. Also grooved concrete seems to make it more pronounced.

What the hell am I missing???? I’m about at the point I am going to try replacing the tires but I’m not sure that is going to do it. I have thrown way too much time and money in this thing over the last two months. I sold a mint well built Lj to get this thing because I was tired of projects, I worked less on that than I do this thing and I literally rebuilt that thing from the ground up.
So, you made a lot of changes to front suspension including stabilizer.I did not discover the wobble on my 2020 wrangler until 10,000 miles. Are sure that the acknowledged death wobble on these units is just now surfacing after bumps? The class action suits resulted in a service bulletin indicating that a different stabilizer bar is to be installed at no charge. My jeep was inspected and we are waiting for the part which is backlogged of course.
 
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So, you made a lot of changes to front suspension including stabilizer.I did not discover the wobble on my 2020 wrangler until 10,000 miles. Are sure that the acknowledged death wobble on these units is just now surfacing after bumps? The class action suits resulted in a service bulletin indicating that a different stabilizer bar is to be installed at no charge. My jeep was inspected and we are waiting for the part which is backlogged of course.
There have been several TSB’s from stabilizer upgrades, to track bar replacement, to the latest steering box replacement. Everything that has been replaced is a much higher quality than anything that Jeep has used. At this point I do believe my particular issue is more or less resolved. I am hesitant to say it is 100% fixed until I can get some more miles on it. But I can safely say since the adjustments I have made to the Jeep I have not experienced the issue I was having.
 

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All - looking for guidance.. I have a stock JLU Sahara with 33” Rubicon tires and wheels. I am on my 3rd steering gear (stock, new aluminum and steel) and still don’t feel my steering is where I want it to be. Tracks decent but still some pull to right and has a dead spot more than I like. I feel the steering is a bit light for my taste. My caster is 5.3 and tire pressure 34-36 psi. I did notice my new steel box has two of the old bolts on it versus all four black ones.

I am thinking about a modification that can help with steering concerns but don’t want to go hydraulic or replace everything. What would you consider the top priority to replace from my list below:

1) steering stabilizer - fox or falcon through shaft - I know a SS doesn’t necessarily change steering significantly but I am wondering if it could reduce the right hand pull and add a bit more resistance to the steering

2) new trackbar - yeti or teraflex

3) Mopar LCAs - guessing this would out my caster at 6.8 which I wonder is too high without a lift

I anticipate a 1.5-2.5 lift in the future but probably 6 months out
You can go through all of the different caster settings to see what works best for you or you can completely eliminate the problem by switching over to one of these setups
Call PSC and talk to them about your JL`s Electric assist Hydraulic steering
pscmotorsports.com
I went through the mill with mine and it ended up going back to Jeep.

I had driven a JLUR with the same issues and helped him install the kit with the steering box and it drove like my old JK did, perfect from stock to lifted with 37`s on it and no issues at all, and no constant steering correction required or shimmy or Death Wobble, which if you truly had death wobble on a vehicle with 35`s or 37`s you would know it is a white knuckle ride

https://www.pscmotorsports.com/vehi...-jeep-jl-big-bore-xd-steering-gear-21963.html

https://www.pscmotorsports.com/vehicle-specific-products/jeep-temp/18-19-jeep-jl/psc-sk500.html
 
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All - looking for guidance.. I have a stock JLU Sahara with 33” Rubicon tires and wheels. I am on my 3rd steering gear (stock, new aluminum and steel) and still don’t feel my steering is where I want it to be. Tracks decent but still some pull to right and has a dead spot more than I like. I feel the steering is a bit light for my taste. My caster is 5.3 and tire pressure 34-36 psi. I did notice my new steel box has two of the old bolts on it versus all four black ones.

I am thinking about a modification that can help with steering concerns but don’t want to go hydraulic or replace everything. What would you consider the top priority to replace from my list below:

1) steering stabilizer - fox or falcon through shaft - I know a SS doesn’t necessarily change steering significantly but I am wondering if it could reduce the right hand pull and add a bit more resistance to the steering

2) new trackbar - yeti or teraflex

3) Mopar LCAs - guessing this would out my caster at 6.8 which I wonder is too high without a lift

I anticipate a 1.5-2.5 lift in the future but probably 6 months out
I would throw a set of adjustable upper arms on it. I think you would be happy with the improvement from the additional caster. And also add a track bar, either that you listed would be an improvement over the stock bar. The adjustable upper arms will let you add caster without pushing the front axel as far forward as using lower arms does. you just need to make sure they can be adjusted shorter than stock. Metal Cloak and Clayton both fall into this category. If you do a lift you will eventually need the arms and the track bar.

The last thing I would do is the stabilizer.
 

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I would throw a set of adjustable upper arms on it. I think you would be happy with the improvement from the additional caster. And also add a track bar, either that you listed would be an improvement over the stock bar. The adjustable upper arms will let you add caster without pushing the front axel as far forward as using lower arms does. you just need to make sure they can be adjusted shorter than stock. Metal Cloak and Clayton both fall into this category. If you do a lift you will eventually need the arms and the track bar.

The last thing I would do is the stabilizer.
I had gone down this route with my Rubicon, Steer Smarts, Yeti, EVO control mount relocation brackets, adjustable control arms, and on and on
Jeep replaced the steering stabilizer 4 times along with the trac bar and finally 2 complete steering box`s and it still wandered and had a dead spot
 
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I had gone down this route with my Rubicon, Steer Smarts, Yeti, EVO control mount relocation brackets, adjustable control arms, and on and on
Jeep replaced the steering stabilizer 4 times along with the trac bar and finally 2 complete steering box`s and it still wandered and had a dead spot
The latest steel gear box seems to have corrected the wandering and dead spot for most.( Once you get the proper amount of caster)I had a slight wander after the new box, getting my caster up at even 6* eliminated that along with having toe around 1/16-0.
 

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The latest steel gear box seems to have corrected the wandering and dead spot for most.( Once you get the proper amount of caster)I had a slight wander after the new box, getting my caster up at even 6* eliminated that along with having toe around 1/16-0.
That is great news to hear, I am looking at getting a 21 392 Rubicon and that is the last problem I want to have.
 
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That is great news to hear, I am looking at getting a 21 392 Rubicon and that is the last problem I want to have.
The 21’s all are coming with the cast iron box. I have heard the 392 is going to also have the last iron knuckles the Mojave and Diesel and Jt’s have.
 

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