At the end of my rope of steering issues.***FIXED!****

[Moto_21]

Now some deflection is in the sidewall of the tires too, specially on a 37 with lighter rating.

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[Jeep&dogs]

Shit mines maxxed out haha

I started at 15, then went to 17, I am now maxed out! Lol.

 

[Jeep&dogs]

I started at 15, then went to 17, I am now maxed out! Lol.

If I can get rid of the shimmy this damn things drives better than a Jeep probably should! With the Fox 2.5’s on it the thing drives better than my wife’s damn 20 Grand Cherokee.

 

[Moto_21]

If I can get rid of the shimmy this damn things drives better than a Jeep probably should! With the Fox 2.5’s on it the thing drives better than my wife’s damn 20 Grand Cherokee.

I cant wait to see if these reid knuckles help it at all. I have new unit bearings already on and they didnt help either. I do get minor movement out of the aluminum knuckles when i turn the wheel so im hoping that tiny bit i get is what might be a contributing factor

 

[hoag4147]

It was in the invoice that they did and that was also done about 2500 Miles before the issue started. I don’t think it was a huge change in comparison to what I had before but it really didn’t drive terrible with the aluminum box.

I know you said torqued everything but have you checked torque on new bolts after the TSB? check IShaft bolt as well. Many folks (including myself) reported torque values no where near specs.

 

[Jeep&dogs]

I know you said torqued everything but have you checked torque on new bolts after the TSB? check IShaft bolt as well. Many folks (including myself) reported torque values no where near specs.

Yes, I have checked all the bolts on the box and also the bolt going through the shaft.

 

[Jeep&dogs]

I cant wait to see if these reid knuckles help it at all. I have new unit bearings already on and they didnt help either. I do get minor movement out of the aluminum knuckles when i turn the wheel so im hoping that tiny bit i get is what might be a contributing factor

Where are you seeing movement on the knuckles? Are they Flexing?

 

[Moto_21]

Where are you seeing movement on the knuckles? Are they Flexing?

The relationship between the tie rod and drag link i can make the draglink end of the knuckle pull a little before the tierod end moves, if i hold my hand on the two parts i can feel a slight variation in the end of the knuckle. So as the draglink pulls, it pulls the aluminum a little bit before the whole knuckle starts turning.

 

[Wolfslash16]

The shimmy honestly feels more pronounced when you first start driving the Jeep, as things heat up or settle in from driving it seems to calm down a bit.

Check the tire balance. Some tires can be out of round and it's more noticeable when they're cold. See if another Jeeper will let you swap over 4 different tires and see if it drives different.

 

[word302]

Check the tire balance. Some tires can be out of round and it's more noticeable when they're cold. See if another Jeeper will let you swap over 4 different tires and see if it drives different.

This. I really think you have a tire issue. Do you have any others or a buddy that will let you throw his on for a test drive?

 

[Kurt0]

OP- sorry youre dealing with this. These things are frustrating as f.

can you take a video of this event happening please? Do one with narration on what youre doing and what youre feeling and one after without.

does this occur while accelerating? Decelerating? Constant speed? All?

getting ahead of myself, but this kind of shimmy has steering damper written all over it in my mind....

-get it up on a lift and start trying to move shit that shouldnt move all over the front end. A shimmy through the wheel should be able to be manipulated by hand.

-pull the steering damper, inspect mounts, run shaft through housing and ensure damping is consistent through entire range of motion

-wheels have been balanced; did you check for roundness?

-check bushing/arm tension&integrity of everything steering related: drag link, tie rod, wheel bearings, axle half shafts, etc etc etc. start at the wheel and move in

-check steering shaft integrity/tension

-double check ball joint install

-consider a different steering pump


you should be able to find this kind of movement by manipulating the other end. If you dont have access to a lift, get under it and have someone run the wheel lock to lock in stages. You might be able to see where the disconnect of steering force transfer is

 

[Jeep&dogs]

So does anyone know how exactly the electric steering pump works? Is it constant? Does it change with RPM? Load? The reason I am asking is I found my stock stabilizer and pulled the Fox ATS off and the thing drives pretty damn good. To the point I am going to leave the stock on on for a week or so and put some miles on it and see how things go.

One of the things I have been fighting has been on a dip or slight bump when the front suspension would unload it felt like the tires were fighting to “pick a direction” so to speak, like they wanted to turn right, but then would go left, and then back slightly right until they found “center” again. With the stock stabilizer I would say that feeling is 99% gone.

That’s also the feeling that kept bringing me back to tires and them being out or round.

I have to admit after everything I replaced and upgraded over the last month I’m going to be pretty pissed off if pulling the $400 stabilizer off and putting the $50 stock one back on corrects this thing.

 

[Kurt0]

So does anyone know how exactly the electric steering pump works? Is it constant? Does it change with RPM? Load? The reason I am asking is I found my stock stabilizer and pulled the Fox ATS off and the thing drives pretty damn good. To the point I am going to leave the stock on on for a week or so and put some miles on it and see how things go.

One of the things I have been fighting has been on a dip or slight bump when the front suspension would unload it felt like the tires were fighting to “pick a direction” so to speak, like they wanted to turn right, but then would go left, and then back slightly right until they found “center” again. With the stock stabilizer I would say that feeling is 99% gone.

That’s also the feeling that kept bringing me back to tires and them being out or round.

I have to admit after everything I replaced and upgraded over the last month I’m going to be pretty pissed off if pulling the $400 stabilizer off and putting the $50 stock one back on corrects this thing.

my guess is you have a bad damper or a bad mount. Call fox, and request a tech inspection of your damper. My *guess* is something inside the valving is jacked or the mount is jacked. Possibly the valving surface isnt mated securely to the shaft.

just dont ask me how i knew to send you to the damper. Im still scarred And touching dolls in therapist’s office about where it hurt me.

edit- to answer your question, i dont believe this is a variable rate steering box but i could be wrong. In any event, the shimmy you experience isnt about programing or assist rate. Its something that isnt controlling the transferred lateral forces; in this case something within the damper.

 

[Jeep&dogs]

I have 1 month left on the 1 year warranty with the Fox stabilizer. I am most likely going to ship it back to them and have them go through it.

 

[Roky]

So does anyone know how exactly the electric steering pump works? Is it constant? Does it change with RPM? Load? The reason I am asking is I found my stock stabilizer and pulled the Fox ATS off and the thing drives pretty damn good. To the point I am going to leave the stock on on for a week or so and put some miles on it and see how things go.

One of the things I have been fighting has been on a dip or slight bump when the front suspension would unload it felt like the tires were fighting to “pick a direction” so to speak, like they wanted to turn right, but then would go left, and then back slightly right until they found “center” again. With the stock stabilizer I would say that feeling is 99% gone.

That’s also the feeling that kept bringing me back to tires and them being out or round.

I have to admit after everything I replaced and upgraded over the last month I’m going to be pretty pissed off if pulling the $400 stabilizer off and putting the $50 stock one back on corrects this thing.

If you are running 6 degrees or more caster and were running your stabilizer all the way firm, then that would cause a slight bump steer situation. What your experiencing with the oem ss is your not fighting your caster anymore. This may not be the case with your specific situation, but I experienced this trying to run my stabilizer to stiff, my caster is 6.3 degrees so I’m at 17 clicks , because that’s as stiff as I can run it and not have any vibrations in the steering wheel.

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