Moto_21
Well-Known Member
Now some deflection is in the sidewall of the tires too, specially on a 37 with lighter rating.
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I started at 15, then went to 17, I am now maxed out! Lol.Shit mines maxxed out haha
If I can get rid of the shimmy this damn things drives better than a Jeep probably should! With the Fox 2.5’s on it the thing drives better than my wife’s damn 20 Grand Cherokee.I started at 15, then went to 17, I am now maxed out! Lol.
I cant wait to see if these reid knuckles help it at all. I have new unit bearings already on and they didnt help either. I do get minor movement out of the aluminum knuckles when i turn the wheel so im hoping that tiny bit i get is what might be a contributing factorIf I can get rid of the shimmy this damn things drives better than a Jeep probably should! With the Fox 2.5’s on it the thing drives better than my wife’s damn 20 Grand Cherokee.
I know you said torqued everything but have you checked torque on new bolts after the TSB? check IShaft bolt as well. Many folks (including myself) reported torque values no where near specs.It was in the invoice that they did and that was also done about 2500 Miles before the issue started. I don’t think it was a huge change in comparison to what I had before but it really didn’t drive terrible with the aluminum box.
Yes, I have checked all the bolts on the box and also the bolt going through the shaft.I know you said torqued everything but have you checked torque on new bolts after the TSB? check IShaft bolt as well. Many folks (including myself) reported torque values no where near specs.
Where are you seeing movement on the knuckles? Are they Flexing?I cant wait to see if these reid knuckles help it at all. I have new unit bearings already on and they didnt help either. I do get minor movement out of the aluminum knuckles when i turn the wheel so im hoping that tiny bit i get is what might be a contributing factor
The relationship between the tie rod and drag link i can make the draglink end of the knuckle pull a little before the tierod end moves, if i hold my hand on the two parts i can feel a slight variation in the end of the knuckle. So as the draglink pulls, it pulls the aluminum a little bit before the whole knuckle starts turning.Where are you seeing movement on the knuckles? Are they Flexing?
Check the tire balance. Some tires can be out of round and it's more noticeable when they're cold. See if another Jeeper will let you swap over 4 different tires and see if it drives different.The shimmy honestly feels more pronounced when you first start driving the Jeep, as things heat up or settle in from driving it seems to calm down a bit.
This. I really think you have a tire issue. Do you have any others or a buddy that will let you throw his on for a test drive?Check the tire balance. Some tires can be out of round and it's more noticeable when they're cold. See if another Jeeper will let you swap over 4 different tires and see if it drives different.
my guess is you have a bad damper or a bad mount. Call fox, and request a tech inspection of your damper. My *guess* is something inside the valving is jacked or the mount is jacked. Possibly the valving surface isnt mated securely to the shaft.So does anyone know how exactly the electric steering pump works? Is it constant? Does it change with RPM? Load? The reason I am asking is I found my stock stabilizer and pulled the Fox ATS off and the thing drives pretty damn good. To the point I am going to leave the stock on on for a week or so and put some miles on it and see how things go.
One of the things I have been fighting has been on a dip or slight bump when the front suspension would unload it felt like the tires were fighting to “pick a direction” so to speak, like they wanted to turn right, but then would go left, and then back slightly right until they found “center” again. With the stock stabilizer I would say that feeling is 99% gone.
That’s also the feeling that kept bringing me back to tires and them being out or round.
I have to admit after everything I replaced and upgraded over the last month I’m going to be pretty pissed off if pulling the $400 stabilizer off and putting the $50 stock one back on corrects this thing.
If you are running 6 degrees or more caster and were running your stabilizer all the way firm, then that would cause a slight bump steer situation. What your experiencing with the oem ss is your not fighting your caster anymore. This may not be the case with your specific situation, but I experienced this trying to run my stabilizer to stiff, my caster is 6.3 degrees so I’m at 17 clicks , because that’s as stiff as I can run it and not have any vibrations in the steering wheel.So does anyone know how exactly the electric steering pump works? Is it constant? Does it change with RPM? Load? The reason I am asking is I found my stock stabilizer and pulled the Fox ATS off and the thing drives pretty damn good. To the point I am going to leave the stock on on for a week or so and put some miles on it and see how things go.
One of the things I have been fighting has been on a dip or slight bump when the front suspension would unload it felt like the tires were fighting to “pick a direction” so to speak, like they wanted to turn right, but then would go left, and then back slightly right until they found “center” again. With the stock stabilizer I would say that feeling is 99% gone.
That’s also the feeling that kept bringing me back to tires and them being out or round.
I have to admit after everything I replaced and upgraded over the last month I’m going to be pretty pissed off if pulling the $400 stabilizer off and putting the $50 stock one back on corrects this thing.