At the end of my rope of steering issues.***FIXED!****

Bombout800

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On top of the steering box there’s a lock nut with a Allen screw in the middle. It has Loctite on it from the factory. You have to put some heat to it break the lock nut loose and then screw in the Alan 1/8 turn at a time till you get to where you need. If you screw in the Allen screw too far it will mess up the steering centering feel. And it could cause your steering to lock up. Disclaimer, I am just a random guy on the Internet, This is not legal advice. Do at your own risk. You could screw things up if you don’t know what you’re doing, Heck you could even screw things up if you do know what you were doing.
I did this the other day. Easy to do. Went with very small turns. Checked the steering wheel, and when it felt tighter. Still some slack, i buttoned it up and went for a drive. It's slightly noticeable but definitely better. I may do more in the future but i don't think going from 12 o'clock to 3 o'clock is a good idea. I'd go maybe from 12 to 1 and check it. Then to 1.5. Until it firms up. My only worry is getting it tight, even before any issues with centering, and the box will fail prematurely. I guess the only fix is PSC. Unless someone comes out with a new box to fix it.





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Jeep&dogs

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A few great videos on Death Wobble

https://emfballjoints.com/pages/helphq#/collection/743/article/12399

So two INCREDIBLY interesting things about their videos,

1.The brand new KO2’s he says are junk because of the shimmy you see on the balancer.......if he thinks THAT is bad he should see how bad the ones on my Jeep shimmy! His are nothing compared to what mine do on the balancer.

2. I think he is absolutely on to something with the spool valve in the box contributing to it and also the tolerance in the box. That could very well explain why one Jeep is perfect and the next one is terrible. It also makes sense why when I was playing with different toe settings and I didn’t take the time to center the wheel it was worse.
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MntsRcalln

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#1 Doesn't surprise me.

#2 Was interesting as hell.

It's like a traffic jam at 60mph. The first guy taps his break and sends a chain reaction 15 cars back that only gets worse until it slows down and fizzles out.

The bad part is, it looks like that box has a week spot anyway. Which gets only worse depending on that particular build and/or builds, which could be set off by almost anything.

Someone will probably come up with a better box and make a buck or two. Time will tell.
 
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#1 Doesn't surprise me.

#2 Was interesting as hell.

It's like a traffic jam at 60mph. The first guy taps his break and sends a chain reaction 15 cars back that only gets worse until it slows down and fizzles out.

The bad part is, it looks like that box has a week spot anyway. Which gets only worse depending on that particular build and/or builds, which could be set off by almost anything.

Someone will probably come up with a better box and make a buck or two. Time will tell.
Yes, honestly I have had the boxes apart before and have played around in them. But I never once screwed around with that torsion rod, I could see how that could come into play. I could also see how temperature could effect that.
 

MntsRcalln

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Was seeing correct? Is that thing the size of a pencil?
 
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Well, I have made it out to the shop last night and will spend some time out there today also. A few observations to start.

1. The track bar bolts are smaller than the bushings in the track bar. Both the factory and the synergy bolt. The 9/16 hardware fits right in the sleeve.

2.There is some signs in both brackets that the bolt holes are opened up like it has moved.

3. The lug nut engagement on the taper of the wheels is minimal and I’m wondering if they are not seating 100%

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MntsRcalln

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Mine has been pretty good since the last mods. I dropped 2 lbs of tire pressure and I was like wtf man. It was worse. Went back up 2 lbs, fine. I swear my x-wife designed the front end.
 

TxJeepers

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1. The track bar bolts are smaller than the bushings in the track bar. Both the factory and the synergy bolt. The 9/16 hardware fits right in the sleeve.
Time to replace track bar bolts with grade 8 M14-1.5 x 70mm bolt ?
You still planning to change the upper control arm axle side bushing? I'm intrigued to learn what if any difference that makes.
 
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Time to replace track bar bolts with grade 8 M14-1.5 x 70mm bolt ?
You still planning to change the upper control arm axle side bushing? I'm intrigued to learn what if any difference that makes.
I replaced both bolts today with 9/16 and torqued them both to 150. If you look at the picture above where the lug nuts were only riding on 1/16 of the taper, I also took .050 off the end of the lug nuts. They are getting full contact with the seat now.

I went against my new rule and did them both at the same time instead of driving it in between. I will say this at this point.....either the planets are aligned and the temperature is just perfect or one of those two things made a difference. I don’t know I even want to say it but the Jeep drove freaking nice, even over my old faithful bump.
 

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I replaced both bolts today with 9/16 and torqued them both to 150. If you look at the picture above where the lug nuts were only riding on 1/16 of the taper, I also took .050 off the end of the lug nuts. They are getting full contact with the seat now.

I went against my new rule and did them both at the same time instead of driving it in between. I will say this at this point.....either the planets are aligned and the temperature is just perfect or one of those two things made a difference. I don’t know I even want to say it but the Jeep drove freaking nice, even over my old faithful bump.
It fixed the slight steering twitch?
 

TxJeepers

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Awesome! I'm gonna say the track bar bolt. I just checked Home Depot and Lowes. Neither seem to have it. Where did you score the bolts/nuts?
 

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