Assistance Needed With Wiring Solar Panel

[InTents.Adventures]

Hello everyone! I am looking for a little help from someone who is hopefully more knowledgable than I am on electronics and wiring.

I have a 2019 Jeep JL Rubicon with a hardshell rooftop tent. On top of the tent is a Merlin Solar panel that has wiring running down into the back of the Jeep. Inside I have a Dometic PLB-40 battery that plugs into the panel and then runs my Dometic CFX-35 fridge.

Issue: The PLB-40 is somewhat finicky, and if the solar panel isn't in direct bright sunlight, it complains with a continuous audible beeping and error to indicate it cannot charge. IE: the input power isn't sufficient to charge. This means anytime I'm in shade, even if it's for a few moments driving down the road, the battery starts to error and beep. Driving back into sunlight does not reset the battery -- I have to unplug the solar input and plug it back in to reset the error.

Obviously this isn't very convenient as it means I can only charge the battery in direct high sunlight, and if a cloud or rainstorm comes up while I'm driving, I have to pull over and unplug the solar panel or be annoyed with constant beeping.

I'd like to install one of two solutions:
- #1) A device that only sends power to the battery when the watts / amps >= a set value. IE: it cuts off charge to the battery when the panel output drops, thereby preventing the error. OR:
- #2) Using one of the Aux switches in the Jeep, wire up some sort of switch that "turns the solar panel on /off". Effectively a switch that I can press when I'm in sunlight to charge, but I can press to quickly disable charging if the input power drops.

Option #2 would be my preference, especially if I can wire it to the factory Aux switches in the Jeep. Anyone know if something like this is possible? What sort of part am I looking for do this? When I google for cutoff switches I tend to get results designed for more residential applications that are too large. I'm guessing there's a name for the type of device I need, but I don't know what it is. Any help is much appreciated!

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[Ct_Formula]

WOW impressive set up!

 

[LittleDog]

Hello everyone! I am looking for a little help from someone who is hopefully more knowledgable than I am on electronics and wiring.

I have a 2019 Jeep JL Rubicon with a hardshell rooftop tent. On top of the tent is a Merlin Solar panel that has wiring running down into the back of the Jeep. Inside I have a Dometic PLB-40 battery that plugs into the panel and then runs my Dometic CFX-35 fridge.

Issue: The PLB-40 is somewhat finicky, and if the solar panel isn't in direct bright sunlight, it complains with a continuous audible beeping and error to indicate it cannot charge. IE: the input power isn't sufficient to charge. This means anytime I'm in shade, even if it's for a few moments driving down the road, the battery starts to error and beep. Driving back into sunlight does not reset the battery -- I have to unplug the solar input and plug it back in to reset the error.

Obviously this isn't very convenient as it means I can only charge the battery in direct high sunlight, and if a cloud or rainstorm comes up while I'm driving, I have to pull over and unplug the solar panel or be annoyed with constant beeping.

I'd like to install one of two solutions:
- #1) A device that only sends power to the battery when the watts / amps >= a set value. IE: it cuts off charge to the battery when the panel output drops, thereby preventing the error. OR:
- #2) Using one of the Aux switches in the Jeep, wire up some sort of switch that "turns the solar panel on /off". Effectively a switch that I can press when I'm in sunlight to charge, but I can press to quickly disable charging if the input power drops.

Option #2 would be my preference, especially if I can wire it to the factory Aux switches in the Jeep. Anyone know if something like this is possible? What sort of part am I looking for do this? When I google for cutoff switches I tend to get results designed for more residential applications that are too large. I'm guessing there's a name for the type of device I need, but I don't know what it is. Any help is much appreciated!

I've been futzing with my solar panel the last couple of weeks, and was getting ready to go your #2 route.

Residential switches might be overkill, but unless they are way more expensive, I don't see a problem with using them. Heck, a regular light switch would probably work. Dimmer, maybe not so much.

What type of controller do you have? Maybe it is too dumb. I know that some are smarter than others and can "reset" charging after a low-voltage event, i.e. clouds, tree cover.

For my problem, I was going to run a wire on the negative/ground side with a disconnect in the middle within hands-reach. Just look for medium amperage switches or disconnects at an autoparts or home store.

Or maybe you can run the solar into the jeep battery, and then the external battery off of that? I don't know how pass-through charging works in that case. Maybe you'd need a diode somewhere? I'm sure someone here has enough electrical brains to help you out.

A line into Aux 3 or 4 would be an easy and quick fix though. Put the solar straight into the jeep battery, and the external battery into the Auxiliary. Hit the switch to reset whenever the external starts beeping.

 

[Gee-pah]

Hello everyone! I am looking for a little help from someone who is hopefully more knowledgable than I am on electronics and wiring.

I have a 2019 Jeep JL Rubicon with a hardshell rooftop tent. On top of the tent is a Merlin Solar panel that has wiring running down into the back of the Jeep. Inside I have a Dometic PLB-40 battery that plugs into the panel and then runs my Dometic CFX-35 fridge.

Issue: The PLB-40 is somewhat finicky, and if the solar panel isn't in direct bright sunlight, it complains with a continuous audible beeping and error to indicate it cannot charge. IE: the input power isn't sufficient to charge. This means anytime I'm in shade, even if it's for a few moments driving down the road, the battery starts to error and beep. Driving back into sunlight does not reset the battery -- I have to unplug the solar input and plug it back in to reset the error.

Obviously this isn't very convenient as it means I can only charge the battery in direct high sunlight, and if a cloud or rainstorm comes up while I'm driving, I have to pull over and unplug the solar panel or be annoyed with constant beeping.

I'd like to install one of two solutions:
- #1) A device that only sends power to the battery when the watts / amps >= a set value. IE: it cuts off charge to the battery when the panel output drops, thereby preventing the error. OR:
- #2) Using one of the Aux switches in the Jeep, wire up some sort of switch that "turns the solar panel on /off". Effectively a switch that I can press when I'm in sunlight to charge, but I can press to quickly disable charging if the input power drops.

Option #2 would be my preference, especially if I can wire it to the factory Aux switches in the Jeep. Anyone know if something like this is possible? What sort of part am I looking for do this? When I google for cutoff switches I tend to get results designed for more residential applications that are too large. I'm guessing there's a name for the type of device I need, but I don't know what it is. Any help is much appreciated!

Hi Kristen:

Correct me if I am wrong but the solar panel and your Dometic PLB-40 battery (which is also a solar controller that regulates the solar panel's output---you need that) are connected with an Anderson SB50 plug, correct?

What if you were to snip the positive side wire, and attach a cable of no less thickness to one spliced end where you cut, whose other end goes to a cutoff switch, and then have a cable return from the cutoff switch back to the other end of the cable that you swtiched.


I read it was 40amps. Here is a 40amp circuit breaker.

https://www.amazon.com/Surface-Moun...it+breaker&qid=1622857695&s=automotive&sr=1-3

I would shy away from use of the Aux switches. Generally, they are for situations where you not only want to switch something, but provide it power as well.

Here, power is supplied by your solar panel, at least when it has sun. You just want/need a switch.

I mean it could be done with the Aux switches but then your pulling current from the starter battery/ies to energize a relay, to turn on or off the circuit to a solar panel.

It's overkill.

 

[LittleDog]

Hi Kristen:

Correct me if I am wrong but the solar panel and your Dometic PLB-40 battery (which is also a solar controller that regulates the solar panel's output---you need that) are connected with an Anderson SB50 plug, correct?

What if you were to snip the positive side wire, and attach a cable of no less thickness to one spliced end where you cut, whose other end goes to a cutoff switch, and then have a cable return from the cutoff switch back to the other end of the cable that you swtiched.


I read it was 40amps. Here is a 40amp circuit breaker.

https://www.amazon.com/Surface-Moun...it+breaker&qid=1622857695&s=automotive&sr=1-3

I would shy away from use of the Aux switches. Generally, they are for situations where you not only want to switch something, but provide it power as well.

Here, power is supplied by your solar panel, at least when it has sun. You just want/need a switch.

I mean it could be done with the Aux switches but then your pulling current from the starter battery/ies to energize a relay, to turn on or off the circuit to a solar panel.

It's overkill.

I'm an electrical dilettante, but concur with the cut-off switch. Disconnecting positive does make more sense.

But as per my above post, running the solar directly into the jeep, and then the external battery off the Aux should work well, right? I was planning on doing this in the future.

Seems like that way, it would keep your jeep battery(ies) topped off, and extra current would go to the external battery/fridge as needed.

The auxiliary switch in the middle would allow for easy resetting of OP's external battery, without any additional wiring.

 

[InTents.Adventures]

Correct me if I am wrong but the solar panel and your Dometic PLB-40 battery (which is also a solar controller that regulates the solar panel's output---you need that) are connected with an Anderson SB50 plug, correct?

Hi! Thank you for the reply - yes, the solar connects to the battery with an Anderson plug.

What you are saying about the Aux switch makes sense. I have 10 gauge wire bringing the panel input in, so if I wanted a switch in the Jeep, what you’re saying is that I should cut the positive, run a stretch of 10 gauge wire that is spliced into the connector to wherever I’d like my switch (up at the front dash) and then splice it back in?

Any particular recommendations for a switch?

 

[InTents.Adventures]

I read it was 40amps. Here is a 40amp circuit breaker.

https://www.amazon.com/Surface-Moun...it+breaker&qid=1622857695&s=automotive&sr=1-3

Which part is 40 amp? The panel output is less than 10 amps. Where would I want the circuit breaker? Before or after the switch?

 

[Gee-pah]

Which part is 40 amp? The panel output is less than 10 amps. Where would I want the circuit breaker? Before or after the switch?

Hi Kristen:

My 40 amp quote came from my first quickly getting up to speed with the tech you were using by referring to this article.

https://tctmagazine.net/spring-2020/dometic-plb40-battery-system-long-term-review

The PB40 product being 40 amps.

But that's, as you've referred to, what the battery can provide, not what charges it.


"Where would I want the circuit breaker, before or after the switch."

In this case Kristen the circuit breaker is not merely your protection for the wires, but the switch itself. If you push the yellow button on the right, a yellow tab will emerge from the left and the circuit will be open (not carry current.) Push that tab back up, and wires connected to the switch will be able to carry current.

So again, snip the positive wire leading to the end of the positive side o the Anderson SB50 connector. Attach wire that is no less thick to one striped side of the cable you snipped. Cover with electrical tape. Run that wire to wherever you want to place the circuit breaker--say the front of the rig. Then connect that wire to one of the two places on the circuit breaker.

Run another wire of similar gauge from the other place on the circuit breaker and splice that second wire's distal end on to the other place where you cut the Anderson SB50 connector.

Of course that tab will emerge automatically if 40 amps is exceeded in the wires...not that you will. Once the reason why more than 40 amps was seen in the wires, you can then push that yellow tab back up to close (restore) the circuit.

If my description for how the circuit breaker closes and opens a circuit wasn't clear maybe this video will be clearer. It's a 30 amp breaker, but it's designed identically in terms of how it energizes and deenergizes a circuit.




As a general rule of thumb we want the circuit breaker to be no higher in amperage (before it trips) than that which can be handled by the wire.

My quick check of Anderson SB50 connectors, I believed used here, like the battery, derives its product name from the amps it can carry at maximum: in this case 50.

It may never going to have more than 10 amps running through it given the limits of solar panel, but as a rule of thumb, the purpose of the circuit breaker, in addition to being able to energize/deenergize a circuit is to protect the wires from overheating.

Accordingly, a 40 or 50 amp circuit breaker, always less okay, but never more than 50 here should be fine given the 50 amps maximum of the Anderson connectors setup.

Wait--let me answer your question precisely....."what part is the 40 amps you ask." The answer is the maximum amperage the battery can provide an appliance.

 

[Gee-pah]

I'm an electrical dilettante, but concur with the cut-off switch. Disconnecting positive does make more sense.

But as per my above post, running the solar directly into the jeep, and then the external battery off the Aux should work well, right? I was planning on doing this in the future.

Seems like that way, it would keep your jeep battery(ies) topped off, and extra current would go to the external battery/fridge as needed.

The auxiliary switch in the middle would allow for easy resetting of OP's external battery, without any additional wiring.

Hey @LittleDog:

I'm not following your wiring design or intentions. I'd like to to make sure you're operating safely. It's generally important (unless the solar panel is very small) for there to be a solar charge controller between the panel and battery....and any situation where you might want one or more of the batteries under the hood (your starter batteries) charging an external battery (also known in vehicle solar parlance as your "house" battery) it's best have a device known as a DC to DC charger between the two.

If you tell me what you want I can make you safe. I have nothing to sell you.

: - )

 

[LittleDog]

Hey @LittleDog:

I'm not following your wiring design or intentions. I'd like to to make sure you're operating safely. It's generally important (unless the solar panel is very small) for there to be a solar charge controller between the panel and battery....and any situation where you might want one or more of the batteries under the hood (your starter batteries) charging an external battery (also known in vehicle solar parlance as your "house" battery) it's best have a device known as a DC to DC charger between the two.

If you tell me what you want I can make you safe. I have nothing to sell you.

: - )

Hi @Gee-pah,

Thanks for all the help you've provided here. I try to out help when I can, but you guys with the (certified) smarts blow me out of the water.

I've a Cascadia solar panel that came with an MPPT controller, 80 Watts. I almost installed a cut-off for my troubleshooting,
but Instead I've been throwing ferrites at it for the past two weeks because of CB/GMRS/AM radio interference and whine from the controller. Pretty close to solving the RF interference and noise, thanks to @JimLee.

I was planning on what I outlined for my personal Engel fridge/freezer setup: solar to MPPT controller, to jeep battery for float/charge, then MPPT directly to fridge. The controller has built-in leads with low-voltage cut-off to not kill the battery, and would power the fridge at night via jeep battery. I have a 2000 2.0T E-torque, so no tiny battery to deal with, though I should change my factory battery soon.

I thought that OP could just connect solar directly to the jeep battery, via controller, then charge the external battery from an auxiliary switch when jeep was running. Aux 1-2 should be good for 40 amps, so if you ran power through one of those, you could hit the button twice to clear any low-voltage event that the external angrily beeps about. It wouldn't work when the jeep was off. But it saves rigging a separate switch.

Wouldn't the jeep battery act as a regulator for the external battery's voltage, or at least provide a minimum voltage?

This would effect the jeep battery a bit, but I don't know about pass-through charging for lead acid batteries. Aren't they pretty opportunistic, taking higher voltages when available, and discharging otherwise, but not caring about steady voltage? Though nibbling on lead plates all the while.

 

[InTents.Adventures]

Hi Kristen:

My 40 amp quote came from my first quickly getting up to speed with the tech you were using by referring to this article.

https://tctmagazine.net/spring-2020/dometic-plb40-battery-system-long-term-review

The PB40 product being 40 amps.

But that's, as you've referred to, what the battery can provide, not what charges it.


"Where would I want the circuit breaker, before or after the switch."

In this case Kristen the circuit breaker is not merely your protection for the wires, but the switch itself. If you push the yellow button on the right, a yellow tab will emerge from the left and the circuit will be open (not carry current.) Push that tab back up, and wires connected to the switch will be able to carry current.

So again, snip the positive wire leading to the end of the positive side o the Anderson SB50 connector. Attach wire that is no less thick to one striped side of the cable you snipped. Cover with electrical tape. Run that wire to wherever you want to place the circuit breaker--say the front of the rig. Then connect that wire to one of the two places on the circuit breaker.

Run another wire of similar gauge from the other place on the circuit breaker and splice that second wire's distal end on to the other place where you cut the Anderson SB50 connector.

Of course that tab will emerge automatically if 40 amps is exceeded in the wires...not that you will. Once the reason why more than 40 amps was seen in the wires, you can then push that yellow tab back up to close (restore) the circuit.

If my description for how the circuit breaker closes and opens a circuit wasn't clear maybe this video will be clearer. It's a 30 amp breaker, but it's designed identically in terms of how it energizes and deenergizes a circuit.




As a general rule of thumb we want the circuit breaker to be no higher in amperage (before it trips) than that which can be handled by the wire.

My quick check of Anderson SB50 connectors, I believed used here, like the battery, derives its product name from the amps it can carry at maximum: in this case 50.

It may never going to have more than 10 amps running through it given the limits of solar panel, but as a rule of thumb, the purpose of the circuit breaker, in addition to being able to energize/deenergize a circuit is to protect the wires from overheating.

Accordingly, a 40 or 50 amp circuit breaker, always less okay, but never more than 50 here should be fine given the 50 amps maximum of the Anderson connectors setup.

Wait--let me answer your question precisely....."what part is the 40 amps you ask." The answer is the maximum amperage the battery can provide an appliance.

Incredibly helpful. Exactly the advice I was hoping to get here. Thank you!!!

 

[Gee-pah]

Hi @Gee-pah,

Thanks for all the help you've provided here. I try to out help when I can, but you guys with the (certified) smarts blow me out of the water.

I've a Cascadia solar panel that came with an MPPT controller, 80 Watts. I almost installed a cut-off for my troubleshooting,
but Instead I've been throwing ferrites at it for the past two weeks because of CB/GMRS/AM radio interference and whine from the controller. Pretty close to solving the RF interference and noise, thanks to @JimLee.

I was planning on what I outlined for my personal Engel fridge/freezer setup: solar to MPPT controller, to jeep battery for float/charge, then MPPT directly to fridge.

@LittleDog: I may be acting like an "anal being" right now, but analyzing your words precisely it would seem that coming off of your MPPT controller, that you wish to have wires leading to both your "starter battery" and your refrigerator. The former, in theory is fine; the latter, not so much. I very well may misunderstand.

First: let's tackle the parlance "starter battery." What batteries we find under the hood of your JL will be dictated by the variation of JL you have (3.6L, 2.0, 4xe, etc.). Most owners have a 3.6L, which, at least from the factory has two batteries that are most of the time (including when the vehicle is at rest) connected in parallel. Oh, I see you have a 2.0L.

I point this out to say that if you hook your MPPT charge controller up to one in a 3.6L, unless modifications are made to factory wiring, for better or worse you will charge both batteries

And I trust that your MPPT controller has a setting for lead acid type batteries as found under the hood.

Now lets talk about the refrigerator. I don't think you mean this literally @LittleDog but my read is that you would like to energize your refrigerator directly from the MPPT charge controller. If so, this is a no no. Again, I'll bet I'm not reading you correctly.

At the risk of pointing out the obvious, the charge controller regulates what the solar panel produces with what the battery needs. And that battery's needs can depend upon what type it is (lead-acid, Lithium Iron Phosphate LIFePO4, etc.) and its state of charge, among other factors.

Charge controllers come in generally two types: the cheaper Pulse Width Modulating (PMW) and the better multi power point tracker (MPPT) type. The later can change the volts and amps (sacrificing one for other--V x A = Watts) keeping watts constant, while the PMW wastes/gives off excess current as heat.

The controller has built-in leads with low-voltage cut-off to not kill the battery, and would power the fridge at night via jeep battery.

@LittleDog...is your MPPT controller and "house" battery one unit like the case with Kristen's @InTents.Adventures PB40 unit?

I' may be getting bogged down on working somewhat blind here. You seem a controller itself never powers an appliance at night because not only is there no light for the solar panel to energize an appliance with, but controllers charge batteries which in turn, night or day, power appliances.

I thought that OP could just connect solar directly to the jeep battery, via controller,

she could : - )

then charge the external battery from an auxiliary switch when jeep was running.

she could....but there would need to be a DC to DC controller between the leads from the auxiliary switch (whose source is the starter battery/batteries) and the external (i.e. "house") battery.

In the same way that a PWM or MPPT controller regulate the current, if available, that is provided to a battery connected to the controller, a DC/DC controller regulates the power provided by one battery, whose purpose is to charge another arguably dissimilar one.

@LittleDog, I have zero product affiliation, but this is an example of solar tech that addresses that you describe:

https://www.renogy.com/dcc30s-12v-30a-dual-input-dc-dc-on-board-battery-charger-with-mppt/

It is a built in MPPT charge controller and DC/DC battery charger from another battery in one.

It will take solar power and first use it to charge the house battery (what you describe as your external battery) with the MPPT controller, only diverting excess solar charge to trickle charge the starter battery/ies if the house battery is fully charged.

This may happen when the engine is on, (or not, say if driving at night) in which case, the alternator first charges the starter battery/ies, diverting excess power to the house battery if available.

I have my issue with Renogy products (IMHO, similar gear from Australia, where overlanding living is more popular, has better products) but my point is to demonstrate the kind of things that need to be between a solar panel and a battery, or a battery and another battery charging it.

Finally, those who raise point about such things not being between the two dissimilar batteries of the 3.6L JL are--whether they realize it or not--are raising some of the very concern of battery purists who've discussed such things on the forum, and prefer dual identical battery systems like that by Genesis.

I hope this helps. Please hit me up with questions. Electricity is a place best not geared towards major experimentation.

 

[InTents.Adventures]

Hi @Gee-pah — Apologies if this is a dumb question, but is there anything special I should look at when selecting a switch? I have 10 gauge wire running to the positive terminal, and if we have a 40amp breaker, does that mean I need a switch that accepts 10 gauge wire that handles 40 amps of power?

 

[Gee-pah]

Hi @Gee-pah — Apologies if this is a dumb question, but is there anything special I should look at when selecting a switch?

Yes: the amperage rating of the switch should never exceed the amperage rating of the wire that attaches to it. It's always okay for the amperage rating of the switch to be less than that of the wire. For example, hooking up a 30 amp switch to wire capable of handing 50 amps is perfectly fine, as is hooking up a 50 amp switch here as well---but not a 51 amp or greater switch.

I have 10 gauge wire running to the positive terminal, and if we have a 40amp breaker, does that mean I need a switch that accepts 10 gauge wire that handles 40 amps of power?

I hear you Kristen but when it comes to acquiring a safe switch for your installation we need to focus our attention on the wires that lead from the solar panel to the PF40 only, as it is between these two that we intend on placing your switch, so as to interrupt the solar panel trying to charge the PB40 in inadequate light conditions and causing that annoying beep that is inspiring this change on your part.

(right?, right!)

We are not concerned here with the wires that lead from the PB40 to appliances like your refrigerator. We can assume that the good people at Dometic have added electrical protections at both the output of the PB40 and the input of the refrigerator, anymore than it is electrically relevant here.

Now, those wires, you report are 10 gauge, and as an industry standard they are generally not designed to handle more than 30 amps.

So by getting a switch rated at 30 amps or less you will be safe.

"We'll that's great, but how low in amps could I go in my switch"

8 amps. Why.....you should not be hooking up your PB40 to a panel designed to generate more than 8 amps...

https://store-au.dometic.com/blog/dometic-plb40-faqs

"But I don't know what to do!!!"

Kristen: pick a circuit breaker from this list...I make no money here. This is what I would do. They are all 30 amp ones. You will be fine .

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=30+amp+c...refix=30+amps+ci,aps,153&ref=nb_sb_ss_sc_2_10


Now...the boring explanation you can ignore....




Gauge of wire (a.k.a. its thickness) is the most determinate factor of the amps it can allow to flow without becoming hot--also known as the wire's ampacity. There are other factors that affect a cable's ampacity like the quality of the metals used in the wires, but all other things equal, thicker cable can conduct more amps with less increases in wire temperature.

The thicker the wire (a.k.a. the lower the gauge---gauge is an inverse metric, the lower the number the thicker the cable) the more amps it can safely accommodate at any point in time.

A limited analogy: think of amps as the metaphorical width of marchers in a parade. Think of volts as the speed of the marchers.

Think of each marcher as a unit of energy.

When selecting a switch its amperage rating should never exceed the amperage rating of the wire. So if I were to run 20 amp wire (in my house or anywhere) and connect it to a 15 amp or 20 amp (or lower fuse/circuit breaker) that would be perfectly okay.

Some would say that to connect merely a 15 amp fuse/circuit breaker to such wire was over engineering, and that I spent too much money on more expensive 20 amp cable when 15 amp would do...

...but it is completely safe.

Hooking such cable up though to, say, a fuse/circuit breaker rated at say 50 amps or higher (or for argument sake higher than 20 amps) runs the risk of my causing a fire as the cable heats up from the large number of amps allowed to run through it by the fuse/circuit breaker.

But....while the fuse/circuit breaker determines this upper limit...it's not as if the installation of, say, a 50 amp fuse/circuit breaker will guarantee that 50 amps will flow through the wire (even if the wire was rated for 50 amps or greater). In fact the least number of amps will flow through that wire as is necessary, as demanded by an appliance connected to the circuit.

In actuality the number of amps that will flow is based upon what the appliance demands, and then by the limits of the supply mechanism of that energy (i.e. the cable, fuse/circuit breaker and power source.)

Academics aside, and not that I recommend this...hooking up an appliance guaranteed to never demand more then 10 amps, or a solar panel never capable of providing more, to a 50 amp fuse and 15 amp wire isn't dangerous, as never more than 10 amps will flow through the wire.

 

[InTents.Adventures]

All about safety and sorry if my question implied anything to the contrary! Your help is much appreciated. I asked because I have not found a smaller switch for an automotive application that has that sort of rating. The switches I’ve seen appear to be much larger, so I wasn’t sure if I was mis understanding what I need, or if i was overlooking an easy solution.

Thanks again!

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