Artec DEF skid and belly pan install notes

[BDinTX]

Before paint

I washed the pieces with Dawn soap and water, scuffed with 150 grit, then wiped it down with alcohol. The paint I used was the Rustoleum high temp stuff. Nobody local had the high temp primer in stock. Finish was nice but I’m not terribly impressed with how well it’s holding. Could be because I didn’t use primer though.

The first pieces to go on are the ones in the lower left above. They attach to the frame using the two small nuts on either side of the body bolt

The order of operations is this:
1) back body bolt out ~1in to access nuts

2) remove nuts from studs
3) put bracket on and finger tighten nuts

4) tighten body bolt so you can…
5) insert supplied cross bolt with backer (you can’t get this in if the nuts are tight)

6) loosen body bolt ~1 in
7) tighten nuts
8) tighten body bolt
9) tighten cross bolt

Once the these brackets are on the rest is pretty self explanatory. We used a pipe in the exhaust to move the muffler to access the one bolt hidden behind it.

The last thing we tightened up was the three countersunk bolts that are on the leading edge (visible in first two pics). Make sure you insert the threaded backers before you block access.
Not too shabby looking…

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[Jeep4Win]

Nice write up! Glad to see a fellow North Texan with trail damage.

 

[BDinTX]

Got up early (and started work a little late) to prime and paint the belly pan. It’s supposed to be above 70° so seemed like a good idea. Check out all this extra HP that just bolts right on! Between the red and the manufacturer stickers I’ll stick on later I might be poppin’ wheelies.

I used different rustoleum paint here than on the DEF skid:

 

[BDinTX]

Got the belly pan installed

I rewatched their JT install video several times and made these notes:

1. Remove factory transfer and other skids.
2. Remove fuel filter, skid set aside big bolts on rail and inside to frame to reuse.
3. Use 10mm inside for bracket trim piece.
4. Use 13mm for fuel filter to bracket, save, will reuse.
5. Loosen fuel tank skid, use ratchet strap to hold up tank. (Had to nearly remove all bolts before metal fish tape would go through).
6. Install metal tank strap with factory bolts. Then remove ratchet strap.

Loosely install:

1. Engine brackets
   -4 on passenger side
   -5 on drivers side
2. Insert threaded plates in factory crossmember.
   -8 on passenger side
   -9 on drivers side
   Note: These both needed to be cut down to fit through crossmember holes.
3. Install oil pan skid to crossmember and engine brackets. Add small support bracket on passenger side of skid.
4. Add new crossmember with one countersunk on driver side only. Wings on either end point to the rear.
5. Install T-case skid using flag nut -3 on passenger side
6. Install exhaust skid and bracket -23
7. Install fuel filter into bracket, slightly thread on factory nuts. Install bracket with 9/16 bolt into new crossmember and re-use factory 13mm bolt. Tighten nuts holding fuel filter.
8. Hang fuel tank skid brackets -21 and ? With factory bolts. Insert carriage bolts into rear of fuel tank skid from inside, use tape to hold in place. Hang skid from rear brackets, work forwards using countersunk bolts.
9. Install fuel filter door with bracket -17. Will reuse two factory bolts that held on original filter bracket.
10. Tighten everything back to front
11. Drill 3/8 hole in frame for forward most driver side hole. Start with center punch. Use flag nut and recessed bolt.
12. Apply stickers.

Other notes:
I found it helpful to jack up the front end and put a couple of 2x4s under each of the front tires. The added clearance allowed me to lay each skid on my stomach as I rolled around on the creeper

Unfortunately I didn’t take pictures of the brackets after the cut. I’ll try to draw something up later and insert here.

Some other folks mentioned receiving flange nuts in the parts kit that are the wrong thread pitch. I did as well.

The video doesn’t go over how to hang the engine brackets. On the passenger side, you need to use the forward most bolt:

Turns out that ”nut” is spot welded in. Hopefully it isn’t too important… =/

I think their intent is that you back out the bolt, install the new 10.9 longer one, then sandwich the bracket between that nut and another one.

 

[Rangemaster]

Got the belly pan installed

I rewatched their JT install video several times and made these notes:

1. Remove factory transfer and other skids.
2. Remove fuel filter, skid set aside big bolts on rail and inside to frame to reuse.
3. Use 10mm inside for bracket trim piece.
4. Use 13mm for fuel filter to bracket, save, will reuse.
5. Loosen fuel tank skid, use ratchet strap to hold up tank. (Had to nearly remove all bolts before metal fish tape would go through).
6. Install metal tank strap with factory bolts. Then remove ratchet strap.

Loosely install:

1. Engine brackets
   -4 on passenger side
   -5 on drivers side
2. Insert threaded plates in factory crossmember.
   -8 on passenger side
   -9 on drivers side
   Note: These both needed to be cut down to fit through crossmember holes.
3. Install oil pan skid to crossmember and engine brackets. Add small support bracket on passenger side of skid.
4. Add new crossmember with one countersunk on driver side only. Wings on either end point to the rear.
5. Install T-case skid using flag nut -3 on passenger side
6. Install exhaust skid and bracket -23
7. Install fuel filter into bracket, slightly thread on factory nuts. Install bracket with 9/16 bolt into new crossmember and re-use factory 13mm bolt. Tighten nuts holding fuel filter.
8. Hang fuel tank skid brackets -21 and ? With factory bolts. Insert carriage bolts into rear of fuel tank skid from inside, use tape to hold in place. Hang skid from rear brackets, work forwards using countersunk bolts.
9. Install fuel filter door with bracket -17. Will reuse two factory bolts that held on original filter bracket.
10. Tighten everything back to front
11. Drill 3/8 hole in frame for forward most driver side hole. Start with center punch. Use flag nut and recessed bolt.
12. Apply stickers.

Other notes:
I found it helpful to jack up the front end and put a couple of 2x4s under each of the front tires. The added clearance allowed me to lay each skid on my stomach as I rolled around on the creeper

Unfortunately I didn’t take pictures of the brackets after the cut. I’ll try to draw something up later and insert here.

Some other folks mentioned receiving flange nuts in the parts kit that are the wrong thread pitch. I did as well.

The video doesn’t go over how to hang the engine brackets. On the passenger side, you need to use the forward most bolt:

Turns out that ”nut” is spot welded in. Hopefully it isn’t too important… =/

I think their intent is that you back out the bolt, install the new 10.9 longer one, then sandwich the bracket between that nut and another one.

Nice write-up and red really looks great.

 

[Jeep4Win]

I was looking at the belly pan in the future. Look forward to hearing how it holds up.

 

[Terpsmandan]

Thanks. Probably going to do that next spring. Do you go with a Fumoto valve on the oil pan?

 

[BDinTX]

Thanks. Probably going to do that next spring. Do you go with a Fumoto valve on the oil pan?

I do have one but I don't have it installed yet. I'm one of those bad people that uses the free oil changes...

 

[zouch]

didn't realize you were doing a write-up of the install when you reached out about getting that bracket to fit!

i would have never considered putting paint on something that isn't going to rust and is inteded to be a contact point,... but i have to admit it looks fun!

 

[Terpsmandan]

I do have one but I don't have it installed yet. I'm one of those bad people that uses the free oil changes...

We wouldn’t you when it needs 8 quarts of oil that for the most part, can’t be found for a reasonable price and an absurdly priced oil filter. I enjoy working on it Also I work at the dealership and any reported incidents must be outliers. Changing the oil is not rocket science.

 

[BDinTX]

didn't realize you were doing a write-up of the install when you reached out about getting that bracket to fit!

i would have never considered putting paint on something that isn't going to rust and is inteded to be a contact point,... but i have to admit it looks fun!

lol I didn't realize I was either! I pinged a few people that mentioned installing these on a diesel. Thank you all for the responses btw. If you can dig up those engineering diagrams, particularly if it shows those to brackets, I can draw lines on them to indicate where I cut them to fit.

As for the Red... I saw a video a while back talking about how bright colors makes it easier for a spotter to see if you're about to hit. On the other jeep, and the previous Asfir skid, I liked that I could more easily see where I hit something when rolling around underneath. Those seem like better justification than "I think it looks cool" ; )

 

[BDinTX]

We wouldn’t you when it needs 8 quarts of oil that for the most part, can’t be found for a reasonable price and an absurdly priced oil filter. I enjoy working on it Also I work at the dealership and any reported incidents must be outliers. Changing the oil is not rocket science.

Not to mention, when I was looking for my own supplies in case of a zombie apocalypse it was really hard to find oil that met the correct spec or oil filters in stock.

 

[Terpsmandan]

Not to mention, when I was looking for my own supplies in case of a zombie apocalypse it was really hard to find oil that met the correct spec or oil filters in stock.

After the last oil change on hers, I make sure to ask if they have an oil and fuel filter in stock. Had to bring it back the next day and she was a bit miffed....

 

[zouch]

We wouldn’t you when it needs 8 quarts of oil that for the most part, can’t be found for a reasonable price and an absurdly priced oil filter. I enjoy working on it Also I work at the dealership and any reported incidents must be outliers. Changing the oil is not rocket science.

9.

 

[Terpsmandan]

8, 9, it’s a lot…. 220, 221 whatever it takes…..

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