Are Xtreme Recon crate axles w/ 4:56 gears available from the factory yet?

[oceanblue2019]

Yep you’ll be good with those on 37’s I’d imagine. People somehow are making these stay alive running 40’s— not sure how but nonetheless they are.

RCV's

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[guarnibl]

RCV's

No, stock. No RCVs but careful feathering I’m sure.

 

[oceanblue2019]

No, stock. No RCVs but careful feathering I’m sure.

I've broken two axles on 35's and doubt long term success with 40's and the factory axles.

 

[LooselyHeldPlans]

Long term I’d like to go the route of the Raptor 37s (~35.5”). The idea here is that I could basically upgrade my factory Rubicon axles to the newer ones with RCVs and 4.56/4.88 gears for probably $1k net of the used axles?

That seems like a really good option. Would there really be no other difference? Didn’t they get thicker tube walls at some point?

 

[guarnibl]

I've broken two axles on 35's and doubt long term success with 40's and the factory axles.

You can break anything with any size tire (I’ve broken 70’s before)— and yes I agree. I’m shocked when i see these people and nothing has broken. Must not be wheeling all that hard but then there they are.

 

[TX_Ovrlnd]

Oh yeah - also I questioned why the stainless brake lines as extra work to bleed the system and the factory ones work just fine at this lift height. But I was really wrong on this as I drove my Jeep right after his and could not believe how much difference these lines made. I ordered a set this morning.

So many doubt the stainless brake lines thinking they're just for show. If you're spending the money to increase clearance and tire size, why would you not upgrade the brake portion slowing that added mass down. Much less squishy feel in stopping, totally worth the extra work.

 

[blnewt]

Just for reference
Current Rubicon 4:10 crates, shipping is $190 each
Front
https://www.mymoparpart.com/p/Jeep_...2408/77072405.html?clickSource=relatedProduct
Rear
https://www.mymoparpart.com/p/Jeep__Wrangler/Axle-Assembly--Rear/75452409/77072406.html

 

[c20040215]

I have no idea how much these actually cost, so I’m sincerely asking. Aren’t there way better/stronger options out there for around the same price point?

If you don't know how much they cost, how would you know there are better options at the same price point? Your first sentence contradicts your second sentence.

W0rDthreezerothreE: " I don't backtrack anything."

 

[word302]

If you don't know how much they cost, how would you know there are better options at the same price point? Your first sentence contradicts your second sentence.

W0rDthreezerothreE: " I don't backtrack anything."

Uhh, I was seriously asking because I haven’t researched the subject at all. You really do have a crush on me don’t you?

Do you ever actually add anything substantive to a conversation?

 

[word302]

The regular Rubicon crate axles seem to be in the $1900 range for the rear and $2300 for the front. Not sure on the shipping cost specifics so that's another thing to factor in. Used Rubicon sets are in the $4k range plus shipping but these usually include brakes, but you have no idea on the condition of the parts other than faith

If these Recon axles can be had for a small premium w/ much better gear options (and like I mentioned, I've heard they're HD setups) it would be worth consideration.

What sets have you seen that are comparable or better for that price range??

If they truly are that cheap then no you can’t touch anything aftermarket in that range. If you’re not gonna do a re-gear yourself then you’re at least halfway to the cost of these axles. That’s assuming 4.56 is the sweet spot for you. I assumed these cost much more than that.

 

[word302]

Yep you’ll be good with those on 37’s I’d imagine. People somehow are making these stay alive running 40’s— not sure how but nonetheless they are.

That FAD area is a giant concern for me, even with 37s. I know you can add a truss but at that point a 60 just makes more sense for my personal use.

 

[word302]

You can break anything with any size tire (I’ve broken 70’s before)— and yes I agree. I’m shocked when i see these people and nothing has broken. Must not be wheeling all that hard but then there they are.

They haven’t broken anything yet. As confidence builds people will find the limit to their equipment. 40” tires without beefing up these axles just isn’t going to last long term.

 

[word302]

Just for reference
Current Rubicon 4:10 crates, shipping is $190 each
Front
https://www.mymoparpart.com/p/Jeep_...2408/77072405.html?clickSource=relatedProduct
Rear
https://www.mymoparpart.com/p/Jeep__Wrangler/Axle-Assembly--Rear/75452409/77072406.html

I’d check with Benny @AllMoparParts.com he might be able to get an even better deal for you.

 

[hoag4147]

There is nothing different with these axles, except the gear ratio, from ordinary Rubicon axles.

The JL Rubicon axle and brakes were referred to as "Heavy Duty" over the "standard duty" Dana 35 used in other models. These "HD" parts are also used in a couple other models offered after the original JL release.

How do I know this? I just helped swap:

• RCV 2 piece axles
• RCV axle seals
• Dyntrack balljoints
• Reid knuckles
• Metalcoak steering linkage (don't like this setup)
• Metalcloak diff covers/diff skids/FAD skid
• Metalcloak track bars
• Metalcloak lower offset front shock mounts
• Metalcloak adjustable control arms
• Synergy rear trackbar frame brace
• Rusty's front trackbar/steering brace
• Grimm front and rear stainless and longer brake lines
• Fox JK ATS steering stabilizer
• Tazer Mini (for the bigger tires coming)

This went onto a brand new JLUR XR yesterday as the owner is going to 37's this week (KO2 C rated from new Raptor - looking forward to seeing these tires as on my list for when my 35's wear out).

I did most of the front axle/suspension work and really poked around looking for differences and nothing found except no drain plug on the pumpkin.

Like the Mopar lift the XR seems to take some short cuts on suspension geometry that are an easy quick fix. What was surprising is it drove and looked a shit-ton better as put the wheels center of the wheel wells, caster at 6.0 (was around 3.5 factory), and the track bars sorted out 5/8" of axle offset.

Owner promised to post a build thread here so stay tuned....

Oh yeah - also I questioned why the stainless brake lines as extra work to bleed the system and the factory ones work just fine at this lift height. But I was really wrong on this as I drove my Jeep right after his and could not believe how much difference these lines made. I ordered a set this morning.

Hey John. I thought the new XR front came with thicker tube walls and cast iron knuckles? Surprised they switched to Reid’s If knuckles are cast already. Sounds like a nice/complete install

 

[oceanblue2019]

Hey John. I thought the new XR front came with thicker tube walls and cast iron knuckles? Surprised they switched to Reid’s If knuckles are cast already. Sounds like a nice/complete install

Definitely aluminum knuckles - I took em off myself and an easy one arm lift

As for the tube thickness I installed RCV axle tube seals so the ID is defiantly the same. I guess the OD could be marginally bigger but they certainly did not appear that way and the MC diff skids fit fine with the rear using U-bolts over the axle tubes so if OD was bigger those would not fit, and they slid right over like they always fit.

I will measure next time I see that Jeep - probably he will join us wheeling next weekend.

The only thing at all different was the oil drain missing and that appears they simply did not machine and tap it.

PS: This was a 3.6, perhaps the 392's get beefier axle tubes and the iron knuckles?

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