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Are Sway Bar Disconnects a waste of time on a Stock Sport S suspension

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Timmyjoe

Timmyjoe

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Installed the Apex disconnects on our Sport S today. Install was pretty straightforward, even doing it on the driveway without jack stands or taking off the front wheels. Connecting and Disconnecting is a breeze as the blue knobs are completely exposed above the tires.

Just drove it up a bit of a rise at the house and flexed it about 3". A bunny flex.

Jeep Wrangler JL Are Sway Bar Disconnects a waste of time on a Stock Sport S suspension BunnyFlex


Thanks for everyone's help. Once I can get a set of the Fox 2.0 shocks I think it will flex more than I need.

Best,
-Tim
 

GrumpyBadger

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Glad you like those Apex. One of the vids indicated cutting inner fenders... but that did not look like a Jeep involved. Did you have to cut anything for the tops of the Apex disconnects, or do they travel unhindered? The description says, " No trimming required on factory wheel wells. " so I presume there is not, but I always seem to misinterpret things for MY vehicle, and then end up deeper than I want to be.

I like the idea of those - no disconnecting and reconnecting... seems too good to be true.

Thanks!
 
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We have a stock Sport S, so no lift. The APEX come in two lengths, the shorter one (which I bought for 0-2" lifts) and the longer one from Jeeps lifted quite a bit more than 2". With the shorter disconnects on a stock Wrangler, there is no need to cut any inner fender wells. I'm not sure on the longer ones, those might interfere with the plastic inner fender wells.

I like them a lot so far. They give you 8" more flex compared to having the sway bars attached. I think the longer ones give 10"-11" more flex.

I went with these for two reasons. First, as a mechanical engineer I find the design very good. And second, there was just something about getting under the Jeep, pulling pins, relocating links in an upper position, and then doing the reverse every time I wanted to go from onroad to offroad and back again. This couldn't be simpler. I can just reach in between the top of the front tire and the bottom of the fender, and twist the knob. That's it, disconnected. To reconnect, just twist the knobs back and press down on one link or the other until you hear it click. Then drive a short distance and the other side will click in. Pretty cool.

Best,
-Tim
 

GrumpyBadger

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Thanks... that is what I presumed, and what is certainly attractive about them. Still seems too good to be true, but then sometimes innovation is like that. 🍻

Still... there is something to be said for the simplicity of the tried and true manual links... I will have to ponder a bit... and see how badly Las Vegas trashes my checkbook next week... 🤔

Cheers!
 

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I just did the apex links this week too, with the Oem fenders you shouldn’t have to trim from what I understand. I also got to play with them a little today on A gravel road. They were nice and easy to use.
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GrumpyBadger

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Excellent... thanks!

I ordered yesterday. Had a couple questions - good chat with the folks. Hoping the experience works out OK for all of us!

Thanks OP for posting about this.

BTW... anyone on the fence... they said they have less than 2 dozen in stock as of my purchase. In these days of messed up supply chains I pulled the hasty trigger because I am tired of vacillating too long and then being disappointed by the words "OUT OF STOCK" when I decide to buy.

UPDATE: Shout out to Apex for great customer service - they helped / accommodated me with a weird shipping / timing issue on my part and it got here just fine when expected. 🍻 🍻 🍻

(Happy to be able to have something good to say about a vendor after seeing so many complaints on the forum all the time! They could have just told me to take my chances on stock available when my timing worked better, but they helped me make it work.)
 
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How hard or easy are they to disconnect and reconnect?
Not difficult at all. Just pull the pins, rotate upwards and replace the pins. To reconnect, you just do the opposite, but parking on an even surface is a must.
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