Left Field
Well-Known Member
- First Name
- Tim
- Joined
- Aug 5, 2020
- Threads
- 16
- Messages
- 377
- Reaction score
- 837
- Location
- Western WA
- Vehicle(s)
- '67 RS-SS Camaro, 2021 JLUR392
- Thread starter
- #1
After looking at the options available for mounting an ARB twin compressor, I found that either they wouldn't work (JLUR392 - under the hood, or in the rear cargo tub), or that I didn't really like them (under the passenger seat - kicked by rear passenger / blocks heat duct / not any great power lead installation options).
What worked for me was just behind the rear seat, above the rear fender:
To do this, I cut the ARB power harness with about 18" at the fuse end and the remainder for the rear connections. The two high power leads were extended with 10' of #8 wire. I also extended the small red control wire with #16 wire and added a 3A fuse to be connected at the PDC near the battery. The black wire did not need to be extended as it is grounded to the chassis near the compressor.
The connections were soldered and covered with shrink tubing for moisture resistance, with nylon over-braid for abrasion protection; the front portion:
Connecting the rear portion, after feeding it through the factory wire grommet on the front of the rear fender:
The over-braid was then pulled over the splice, and then the slack pulled up through the factory fender grommet to reach the compressor.
In the front, the harness was run down along the firewall, behind the fender, then zip tied to the factory harness that runs along the top of the frame rail:
A metal bracket was fab'd to mount the two 40 amp fuse holders near the PDC:
The eyelets for the two 40A power leads were connected to the N2 terminal of the PDC (which is connected directly to the positive terminal of the battery). The red control lead was also terminated there, but as an alternate could be connected to the nearby Aux switch harness if available, either to the switched power lead or one of the switches.
In the back, the harness was grounded on an unused lug (after removing the paint from the lug) and routed up through the carpet gap above the wheel well:
The wires for the control switch were brought out behind the wheel well using a small notch filed in the trim panel:
A mounting bracket for the compressor was welded up - two bolts attach using the hardtop mounting bolts, one from the roll bar using a factory tapped hole; a small notch cut from the roll bar trim cover:
An air manifold and the control switch were mounted off the rear hard top bolt:
Solid 3/8" soft copper line was used for the connection to the compressor to avoid heat issues. I couldn't find any flexible lines rated for compressor outlet temperatures.
The manifold is set up to connect L and R side air hoses for both inflation and deflation.
Done!
What worked for me was just behind the rear seat, above the rear fender:
To do this, I cut the ARB power harness with about 18" at the fuse end and the remainder for the rear connections. The two high power leads were extended with 10' of #8 wire. I also extended the small red control wire with #16 wire and added a 3A fuse to be connected at the PDC near the battery. The black wire did not need to be extended as it is grounded to the chassis near the compressor.
The connections were soldered and covered with shrink tubing for moisture resistance, with nylon over-braid for abrasion protection; the front portion:
Connecting the rear portion, after feeding it through the factory wire grommet on the front of the rear fender:
The over-braid was then pulled over the splice, and then the slack pulled up through the factory fender grommet to reach the compressor.
In the front, the harness was run down along the firewall, behind the fender, then zip tied to the factory harness that runs along the top of the frame rail:
A metal bracket was fab'd to mount the two 40 amp fuse holders near the PDC:
The eyelets for the two 40A power leads were connected to the N2 terminal of the PDC (which is connected directly to the positive terminal of the battery). The red control lead was also terminated there, but as an alternate could be connected to the nearby Aux switch harness if available, either to the switched power lead or one of the switches.
In the back, the harness was grounded on an unused lug (after removing the paint from the lug) and routed up through the carpet gap above the wheel well:
The wires for the control switch were brought out behind the wheel well using a small notch filed in the trim panel:
A mounting bracket for the compressor was welded up - two bolts attach using the hardtop mounting bolts, one from the roll bar using a factory tapped hole; a small notch cut from the roll bar trim cover:
An air manifold and the control switch were mounted off the rear hard top bolt:
Solid 3/8" soft copper line was used for the connection to the compressor to avoid heat issues. I couldn't find any flexible lines rated for compressor outlet temperatures.
The manifold is set up to connect L and R side air hoses for both inflation and deflation.
Done!
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