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ARB Fridge question: 37 or 50?

brazos

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I have decided to buy one or the other.

The 37 quart will be adequate for my expected needs, but the 50 is only $10 more ($775/$785) on Amazon. So the price difference is meaningless.

They use the same compressor. Will the 37 use significantly less power due to 20% less volume to cool? Or once cool, will the difference be inconsequential?

I camp for days in one spot, so power draw matters a lot to me.

Also, I don’t intend to buy the slide, as I want flexibility in my interior layout. So I will be accessing contents within the Jeep.

Will the 3” taller 50 work ok with the interior height of the JLU, or be restrictive?

Finally, regarding power supply. I just tested my cigarette lighter port, and it’s only hot when ignition is on.

That’s not gonna work, I’m thinking. I have auxiliary switches. Are they hot when vehicle is off? Should I wire to them, directly to battery, or modify wiring to cigarette lighter to be always hot?

Any wiring will be done by a shop, as I am clueless about such things, but I’d like to know the best setup so I can tell the guy I’m paying what I want done.

Thanks for any help.
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LunchBoxFab

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Finally, regarding power supply. I just tested my cigarette lighter port, and it’s only hot when ignition is on.
i dont have much on the rest of it, but i have found recently that you can move the fuse (from F43 to f45 maybe) to change that operation on the rear power outlet. so it will stay on constantly.
 

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I had the same questions and I ultimately pulled the trigger on the 50. First, the port in the back should be hot but if not, there is a fuse that you have to move (there is a thread on it somewhere) and it will work. I didn't notice a problem with the fridge drawing power-I just took a seven day camping trip, and I was very, very happy to have the extra storage capacity (as was my wife). One consideration though, as you mentioned, is the height. If you buy the 50, you may have to have it sit on the passenger side. Because of the slant of the back seat, I couldn't run it on the driver side unless I folded the seat down; on the right side, the fridge fits no problem. You'll be happy with your purchase either way, but I am glad we went with the 50! If you are camping somewhere that is hot, you may want to consider the cover for the fridge as it insulates it and will draw less power.
 
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brazos

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Thanks. I see you both have Rubicons. I have a Sport—no rear 12v port.
Anyone know if there’s a fuse move that will make the front port always hot?
 

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I’d be remiss is I didn’t encourage you to check out the snomaster line of coolers.

Now, for power, you’ll want a dedicated 8ga wires running from the battery to the coolers. Arb makes a nice “kit” for installing power. Was maybe $40 or so. I installed ours in the compartment in the rear cargo area and drilled a hole to pass the plug thru on the lid. Works great and plenty of capacity

Brett
 

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brazos

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I’d be remiss is I didn’t encourage you to check out the snomaster line of coolers.

Now, for power, you’ll want a dedicated 8ga wires running from the battery to the coolers. Arb makes a nice “kit” for installing power. Was maybe $40 or so. I installed ours in the compartment in the rear cargo area and drilled a hole to pass the plug thru on the lid. Works great and plenty of capacity

Brett
Thanks Brett. I ordered the ARB wiring kit. Where did you run the wires through the firewall?

I’ve removed my rear seat and built the level floor out to back of front seats, and I plan to strap the fridge down behind the seat, and access it through rear passenger door.

So the plug location you used probably wouldn’t work for me. Would it be a bad idea to run the wire through one of the seatbolt holes in the floor and then forward under the tub, and up through engine compartment?

Seems like that would be easiest.

I did look into the Snomasters. It seemed that everyone who had either brand loved them, but the ARBs were a lot less money. Like $350-400 less.

I didn’t care about the included travel bag or remote control.
 
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Thanks Brett. I ordered the ARB wiring kit. Where did you run the wires through the firewall?

I’ve removed my rear seat and built the level floor out to back of front seats, and I plan to strap the fridge down behind the seat, and access it through rear passenger door.

So the plug location you used probably wouldn’t work for me. Would it be a bad idea to run the wire through one of the seatbolt holes in the floor and then forward under the tub, and up through engine compartment?

Seems like that would be easiest.

I did look into the Snomasters. It seemed that everyone who had either brand loved them, but the ARBs were a lot less money. Like $350-400 less.

I didn’t care about the included travel bag or remote control.
Just out of curiosity, did you go with the 50 or the 37?
 
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Just out of curiosity, did you go with the 50 or the 37?
37. Mainly for the height difference, so the lid will open either fully or nearly so in the Jeep.

It’s just me, so that’s plenty big for my needs.

I reckon it must use less power as well, with 25% less volume to cool.

Btw, I found the rear 12v port. That’s cool, because I want to experiment with location some before I wire it permanently.
 

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37. Mainly for the height difference, so the lid will open either fully or nearly so in the Jeep.

It’s just me, so that’s plenty big for my needs.

I reckon it must use less power as well, with 25% less volume to cool.

Btw, I found the rear 12v port. That’s cool, because I want to experiment with location some before I wire it permanently.
I don’t see an issue with running the wires thru the seatbelt hole just make sure it’s protected from chaffing. The rear plug will work temporarily but I believe it’s to small of wire and there is to much resistance in the wiring. I ran the wiring from the battery down along the frame all the way to the back.

Brett
 

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37. Mainly for the height difference, so the lid will open either fully or nearly so in the Jeep.

It’s just me, so that’s plenty big for my needs.

I reckon it must use less power as well, with 25% less volume to cool.

Btw, I found the rear 12v port. That’s cool, because I want to experiment with location some before I wire it permanently.
I'm glad you are able to use the rear 12v port! Honestly, it is nice to be able to plug it in and use it whenever without having to hardwire anything, but I hear that kit that ARB makes is nice. I struggled with the decision between the 37 and 50 myself because of the height difference but because there are four of us who go for extended periods of time, 50 was the call. It made packing more of challenge though because of the limited options of placement. I'm excited for you to get the fridge though. My wife said that regardless of the price, it was the best purchase we have made for the Jeep yet and has certainly made camping more convenient and enjoyable. You'll love it!
 

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I don’t see an issue with running the wires thru the seatbelt hole just make sure it’s protected from chaffing. The rear plug will work temporarily but I believe it’s to small of wire and there is to much resistance in the wiring. I ran the wiring from the battery down along the frame all the way to the back.

Brett

Thanks. Actually I’ll be running it through a seat BOLT hole, not seatbelt. I removed the rear seat, and put the bolts back in the floor to seal it, but I will just pull one bolt, run the wire through, and caulk around it.

I’m trying to make all of my mods easy to remove, as I plan to trade in at or around warranty’s end.
 
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I'm glad you are able to use the rear 12v port! Honestly, it is nice to be able to plug it in and use it whenever without having to hardwire anything, but I hear that kit that ARB makes is nice. I struggled with the decision between the 37 and 50 myself because of the height difference but because there are four of us who go for extended periods of time, 50 was the call. It made packing more of challenge though because of the limited options of placement. I'm excited for you to get the fridge though. My wife said that regardless of the price, it was the best purchase we have made for the Jeep yet and has certainly made camping more convenient and enjoyable. You'll love it!
That is very encouraging! It was hard for me to drop ~$1k on a fridge, but I’m coming from an RV, and the only 2 things I miss in Jeep camping are a fridge and A/C.

I like to stay in the backcountry for several days, and ice just doesn’t cut it.

Heading up to Colorado 8/8 for a few weeks of high-country wheeling/ camping.

Can’t wait!

(Btw, these technical forums are great! I posted a similar thread on the general forum and never got a single reply. Thanks to all who have replied here!)
 

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Thanks. Actually I’ll be running it through a seat BOLT hole, not seatbelt. I removed the rear seat, and put the bolts back in the floor to seal it, but I will just pull one bolt, run the wire through, and caulk around it.

I’m trying to make all of my mods easy to remove, as I plan to trade in at or around warranty’s end.
Hahaha, I was autocorrected, I knew exactly what you meant. I find surprises all the time when I reread what I typed vs what my ipad wanted me to type

brett
 

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This is how an ARB 50 fits in the back of my JLU rubicon. This is the wife’s fridge she keeps in her JKU. We move it between vehicles when we drive mine.

AF84FEE4-BE74-4E40-BFBC-990233169D17.jpeg


FED47691-A7EF-4D57-9D68-E0604398196D.jpeg
 

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I know its really not the same situation but I'll add my experience for comparison: I run a 75L dual zone dometic (set to 4c and -10c) in my JLUR and took it for a 2 week trip plugged into the back port. It worked fine and with the battery saver setting set to medium (11.8v shutoff) I could run it for 15 hrs. As far as I know, it draws on average 3 ah.

Since then, I added a house battery, charger and dc subpanel in the back. I ran 4 awg wiring from the starter battery, through the cowl (where the wiper motor resides), down to the frame, into the frame rail, to the tail light. Went through the body with firewall studs at that 45 degree bend which lets me put back the trim piece hiding everything. Fishing the wires was really easy.

I haven't been out since the changes so I can't comment on how long it'll stay on now but I'm expecting 30 hours on a 110ah house battery.
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