TroyBoy
Well-Known Member
- First Name
- Troy
- Joined
- Jun 14, 2017
- Threads
- 94
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- 1,412
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- 1,539
- Location
- Vancouver Island, Canada
- Vehicle(s)
- 2018 JLUR
- Thread starter
- #1
I just installed my dual arb compressor using the Mountain Offroad bracket and thought I would share what I did.
Here is the end result:
I planned on using one of the four Aux switches so I cut off the switch mount from the MORE bracket along the red line:
The compressor has to plugs. One huge one that goes directly to the battery and a smaller one for the switches. Here is the smaller plug:
There are three wires going to this plug. Red, Black, and Purple. Red is capped off and I have no idea why it is there. As I found out later, black (the ground) isn't even needed. It's probably used for all the other switches you can have like front and back ARB lockers which I don't have.
I tossed that wiring harness, cut off the plug and wired the purple directly to my aux2 switch. Nice and simple. I routed the aux2 wire down the passenger side and then over to the drivers side underneath the back seat carpet. I also taped the wire down to the floor so it wouldn't move around. Sorry, no pictures of that.
The large wiring harness which goes directly to the battery is too short so I had to extend it by 10 feet. You will need 2 black 10awg wires, 2 red 10awg wires and 1 black 18awg wire. I recommend staggering the splices so you don't end up with one area of the wires that is really bulky.
Here are some tips on splicing 10awg wire:
Push the two wires together while wiggling them a bit. The small wires will intermingle. Then wrap a single strand around the two wires to hold it:
Solder the wires together. I used a Weller 200/260watt soldering iron. You need a lot of heat.
And then finally shrink wrap it:
The large wire harness is covered with a black plastic loom which I tossed the cover before exending the wires by 10 feet each.
Here I am laying down the two red wires to line up the fuses:
The next step is to lay down the two black wires:
I then taped the wires together every foot and then wrapped the wires with a wire loom for protection.
The best way to get through the firewall is through a plastic plug on the drivers side above/left of the pedals:
I drilled a hole through the plastic plug, pushed the wires through it and then siliconed the plug in place. I actually used Sekaflex 291 not silicone.
Here is a picture of the wires going to the firewall hole:
Follow the lower wire loom. The top one is for my winch relay.
It's important to route the wire carefully so as to not cover any of the black plastic side panel clips:
I decided to pull apart the large harness plug so that I wouldn't need to splice any more wires. In hind sight I wish I just cut the wires a foot away from the plug and spliced them.
Dang it! I the rubber melted away on one of the wires!
Here is the the plug on the new wires complete with shrink wrap covering my mistake
View attachment 42046
Here is the end result:
I planned on using one of the four Aux switches so I cut off the switch mount from the MORE bracket along the red line:
The compressor has to plugs. One huge one that goes directly to the battery and a smaller one for the switches. Here is the smaller plug:
There are three wires going to this plug. Red, Black, and Purple. Red is capped off and I have no idea why it is there. As I found out later, black (the ground) isn't even needed. It's probably used for all the other switches you can have like front and back ARB lockers which I don't have.
I tossed that wiring harness, cut off the plug and wired the purple directly to my aux2 switch. Nice and simple. I routed the aux2 wire down the passenger side and then over to the drivers side underneath the back seat carpet. I also taped the wire down to the floor so it wouldn't move around. Sorry, no pictures of that.
The large wiring harness which goes directly to the battery is too short so I had to extend it by 10 feet. You will need 2 black 10awg wires, 2 red 10awg wires and 1 black 18awg wire. I recommend staggering the splices so you don't end up with one area of the wires that is really bulky.
Here are some tips on splicing 10awg wire:
Push the two wires together while wiggling them a bit. The small wires will intermingle. Then wrap a single strand around the two wires to hold it:
Solder the wires together. I used a Weller 200/260watt soldering iron. You need a lot of heat.
And then finally shrink wrap it:
The large wire harness is covered with a black plastic loom which I tossed the cover before exending the wires by 10 feet each.
Here I am laying down the two red wires to line up the fuses:
The next step is to lay down the two black wires:
I then taped the wires together every foot and then wrapped the wires with a wire loom for protection.
The best way to get through the firewall is through a plastic plug on the drivers side above/left of the pedals:
I drilled a hole through the plastic plug, pushed the wires through it and then siliconed the plug in place. I actually used Sekaflex 291 not silicone.
Here is a picture of the wires going to the firewall hole:
Follow the lower wire loom. The top one is for my winch relay.
It's important to route the wire carefully so as to not cover any of the black plastic side panel clips:
I decided to pull apart the large harness plug so that I wouldn't need to splice any more wires. In hind sight I wish I just cut the wires a foot away from the plug and spliced them.
Dang it! I the rubber melted away on one of the wires!
Here is the the plug on the new wires complete with shrink wrap covering my mistake
View attachment 42046
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) I just ran two wires to the switch eliminating the whole harness minus the power/ground that go to the battery. I still need to find the time to run the power/ground wires, but a quick bench test with a 12v battery everything works great!
