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Apex AutoLYNX quick sway bar disconnect solution

Naylia

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With that ratio you should NOT being going off road. That's a street tire all day.
The stocks are Bridgestone Duellers. Definitely street tires. The Mickey Thompson Baja Boss ATs in my cart are probably going to have their feelings hurt though. E rated 10 ply sidewall construction.
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WAOLIFE

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The stocks are Bridgestone Duellers. Definitely street tires. The Mickey Thompson Baja Boss ATs in my cart are probably going to have their feelings hurt though. E rated 10 ply sidewall construction.
I'm talking about the 20" wheel size . . . and sidewalls don't exceed 3 ply, only the tread area is 10 ply
 

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I'm talking about the 20" wheel size . . .
If they get truly thrashed I'll replace them. If I get a flat, I'll change my tire. Until then they are what they are and I haven't had any issues. They prevent me from airing down as much as I might like, but i haven't gotten myself stuck anywhere yet due to that.
 

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With the narrow axles (JLU Sport), stock rims and 35x12.5 tires I got some rubbing on the AutoLynx body without spacers when at full lock with the steering wheel. Now have Method rims with 0 offset and no issues at all with rubbing.

There isn't any binding happening and they work amazing. Would buy them again in a heartbeat.
 
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SlickRickMotoADV

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Just to reiterate in case people don't want spacers; you can simply add 1-3 M10 washers on to your steering stop bolts, which is usually enough to make the links not rub on tires with narrow axles, as they only rub at absolute full steering lock. It took me 2 M10 washers to achieve this.

AutoLynx states you can stack up to .3" of washers safely IIRC.

If I get aftermarket wheels in the future, I will remove the washers. It's a 5 min job at most.
 

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dougywarren

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I had emailed Apex and they pointed me towards this documentation:

Probably not even worth returning even if I don’t need them, I like the wider look anyways. I forgot to mention that I swapped the stock 4XE rims for some rubicon takeoffs w/ KO2s. Here’s hoping my self install goes smoothly!
I did the same and they told me I’d probably need spacers with the 4Xe Sahara. Think I’ll order the Apex tomorrow. I’m running 275/60r20 Wildpeak AT3W on the stock 20s right now. I have some Spidertrax 1.75 spacers I haven’t installed yet, not sure if I should or not.
 

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I just finished my install, and it didn't go exactly how I imagined.

The first issue for me was the alignment of the autoLYNX.

As with the JKS that I just replaced, the gap between the sway bar and the mounting bracket is too far apart. JKS provides a hard composite bushing to fill in the "space gap".

Same issue with these autoLYNX. Maybe somebody has said something about this in the last 14 pages? I haven't taken the time to read the entire thread.

Luckily, I had some bushings that were close enough to what I needed to fill the gaps. They are a bit too pliable for long term use, however they will suffice until I source the proper part.

IMG_7702.jpg


IMG_7701.jpg


IMG_7700.jpg
 

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Maybe somebody has said something about this in the last 14 pages?
If you check out my posts in this thread you will see my journey from worrying about alignment to making special spacers to abandoning those spacers. And they work just fine now. Sure, the ideal alignment would be perfectly vertical from anti-sway bar to axle attachment, but I have not noticed any ill effects from having a small angle introduced.
 

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Jeep Wrangler JL Apex AutoLYNX quick sway bar disconnect solution PXL_20220522_142322276.MP



When adjusting for a 9.5" stroke, the place that you would seemingly put the top snap ring isn't accessible. Doi just place one on the bottom of the 9.5" range and leave the other one completely off, as shown in my pic?

I am having a really hard time understanding adjusting these for max travel. Do I need to remove both snap rings, move the slider all the way up, and then put only the lower snap ring for the 9.5" range on? Allowing the top body itself to be the "top ring"?

I can't see a way to get the bottom ring on, as the slider portion is longer than the lowest 9.5" snap ring location, assuming there isn't a top one.
 

SlickRickMotoADV

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Welp just damaged one of the lock rings trying to get it loosened. Even hit it with 4d40 and heat. Now it's so indented and deformed that it will no longer slide over a snap ring.
Jeep Wrangler JL Apex AutoLYNX quick sway bar disconnect solution PXL_20220522_145029005


I REALLY hate working with these things. Great when they are installed and operating, but the world's biggest bitch to adjust. Too many points to cause damage.

Looks like I'll be needing parts from apex. Fuck my life.

To make it worse, the reason for me attempting to loosen that was to set it for 9.5"

There's no location for a top snap ring on the 9.5" selection, and the bottom snap ring location for the 9.5" setting seems to make it impossible to get the slider high enough over the bottom snap ring location to slide it down on top of it. Am I misunderstanding something?

The distance between that thick silver part to the left of the blue, and the bottom snap ring location for the 9.5" setting is LESS than the length of the slider portion. How would it be possible to slide the slider up high enough with that silver metal hard part blocking what would seem to be the needed space about the 9.5" text etching?

Jeep Wrangler JL Apex AutoLYNX quick sway bar disconnect solution PXL_20220522_142322276.MP


Called and emailed Apex, so I'm hoping to get a reply soon.
 
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SlickRickMotoADV

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Dang, they already called back and are going to take them in for repair and adjustment. Apex service is on point today.

Also, I'm an idiot. These are 8.7" links, not 9.5. Lol. Can't believe it was that dumb. 8.7" is exactly what I need, and both rings are accessible, and properly spaced for sliding the slider over the bottom one.

Don't be dumb like me kids.
 
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blink9cd

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I just finished my install, and it didn't go exactly how I imagined.

The first issue for me was the alignment of the autoLYNX.

As with the JKS that I just replaced, the gap between the sway bar and the mounting bracket is too far apart. JKS provides a hard composite bushing to fill in the "space gap".

Same issue with these autoLYNX. Maybe somebody has said something about this in the last 14 pages? I haven't taken the time to read the entire thread.

Luckily, I had some bushings that were close enough to what I needed to fill the gaps. They are a bit too pliable for long term use, however they will suffice until I source the proper part.

Jeep Wrangler JL Apex AutoLYNX quick sway bar disconnect solution PXL_20220522_142322276.MP


Jeep Wrangler JL Apex AutoLYNX quick sway bar disconnect solution PXL_20220522_142322276.MP


Jeep Wrangler JL Apex AutoLYNX quick sway bar disconnect solution PXL_20220522_142322276.MP
You might be having the issue I had? For my installation the Apex's couldn't fill the gap from the sway bar to the mounting bracket without several spacers. My posts have a bunch of pictures and measurements of the differences between the stock sway bar end links and the Apex's. I was going to give up mid-install, but luckily found instructions on here that weren't in my packet and went to to Home Depot and found washers that seemed good enough. Later on Apex offered washers as an add-on at the time you buy.

Everything seems to work really well right now, other than it being very hard to lock them back on my own.
 

blink9cd

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That's a great idea. I'll drop the bar, grease and re-torque it. That said, during install, the bar itself moved freely within the bushing. I'll give that another shot though.
Envious of the stubby bumper for sure; that would likely give me some more room to push down.
Let me know if you try this and it works. When I installed a rubicon take-offs a couple weeks ago it seemed like the sway bar was able to move up and down once I disconnected the end links. But I don't know how easily it moved compared to how easily it could/should since I only have a date set of one.
 

SlickRickMotoADV

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Let me know if you try this and it works. When I installed a rubicon take-offs a couple weeks ago it seemed like the sway bar was able to move up and down once I disconnected the end links. But I don't know how easily it moved compared to how easily it could/should since I only have a date set of one.
Oh I verified this today. Definitely needed more lube in those bushings. They were nearly dry.
 
 



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