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anyone makes a lower temp thermostat ?

mwilk012

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I am not an engineer either, but has anyone considered the oil? 0w-whatever is very thin. Most vehicles in hot climates recommend 10w-30 or better. My turbo cars do much better with it than 5w or 0w options.
5W and 0W are the cold weights.
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zrickety

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multicam

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The OP did say he has the 3.6L, as the 2.0L was unavailable in his region.

I think it’s worth bringing up a philosophical question here which I seem to remember creeping into discussions of the factory recommended oil weights.

Do we take for granted that the FCA engineers necessarily had solely the long-term health of the engine in mind when they designed it? Is it conceivable that they made compromises to the long-term health of the engine in the name of some other end- say, fuel economy or production cost?

In my opinion, of course that’s conceivable. So then the only two relevant questions for a JL owner to ask are:

1. Can making this change (whatever it is- lower thermostat, different oil viscosity, etc) hurt my Jeep, help it, or have no effect?
2. Can I afford the potential consequences (i.e. should I wait till my warranty runs out? Is my jeep a DD or a weekend toy? Etc.)?

For me, temps aren’t an issue and I’m still under warranty so I have no reason to change anything but by the sound of it, the OP can afford to make some changes and experiment with his Jeep so I say best of luck and let us know what happens.
 
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garkoi

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The gladiator with tow package has its own fan, the JL was not built for towing and does not have additional cooling options.
so the tow package never came with the 850w fans interesting, i dont tow but many people here do tow with the JL and some people paid for the tow package on the JL, i dont know why you would say that it was not built for towing but anyways, they both use the same radiator the only difference is the fan, so a 850w fan swap should be able to give you as much cooling capacity as the gladiator.

Op never said what engine he’s running .
i said 3.6, we only get 3.6 auto for the entire gulf region nothing else

I am not an engineer either, but has anyone considered the oil? 0w-whatever is very thin. Most vehicles in hot climates recommend 10w-30 or better. My turbo cars do much better with it than 5w or 0w options.
most cars here (where i live) run 10w-30 some 10w-40 and that was true a few years ago where you picked the viscosity depending on the climate, today they build engines with a tight bearing clearance so anything thicker than 0w-20 is too thick. will it harm your engine to run 0w-30 ? i cant say for sure, it probably would be ok.

1. Can making this change (whatever it is- lower thermostat, different oil viscosity, etc) hurt my Jeep, help it, or have no effect?
2. Can I afford the potential consequences (i.e. should I wait till my warranty runs out? Is my jeep a DD or a weekend toy? Etc.)?

For me, temps aren’t an issue and I’m still under warranty so I have no reason to change anything but by the sound of it, the OP can afford to make some changes and experiment with his Jeep so I say best of luck and let us know what happens.
Thank you, i dont have a dash light problem with the temps, They just seem to go to a range that people are not used to, 210-240 seems too high, people here are missing the key word "SEEMS" if i see 230-240 im going to ease off and stop pushing the jeep till it cools down a bit, we are used 160-180 temps.
 

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How hard are you pushing your jeep to see those temps ? I see your from Australia so are you at max payload, roof rack, towing ? But a lower thermostat won't help you here since ur waaay past its open set point and your temps are going up cause your thermal load is more than your cooling capacity in whatever situation you saw those temps, i recommend
1. JT 850w fan.
2. a bypass switch, flip it on and it goes into high speed bypassing factory fan mapping.
3. JT grill inserts, i dont know how much it will effect cooling but every bit helps.
4. Removing the heat shield under the hood.
5. Converting the fake hood vents into real vents.

As to a lower thermostat i still didnt find any, i dont think i will find any since i looked into all the cars that share the same part number and none have a lower thermostat available, so option 2 which will most likely fix the issue with heat under load, is to keep the temp at oem minimum running temp by upgrading the cooling system.


The same upgrades above should apply to any jl, do you have the tow package ? I know the tow package comes with a 240amp alternator and 850w fan on the gladiator, i assume its the same on the jl not sure about the fans. So if you bought the tow package i would check the fan if it says 600w or 850w. Its a white sticker.

44715EC6-7D26-4015-88F8-B8CF1088A317.jpeg
Mine came with just 2 major options: auto trans and hardtop, plus one low cost interior option I can't remember at the moment. I installed a Class III hitch myself and wired it myself. I do not have tinted windows - I specifically did not want them. 6 months a year I use the factory all-season tires that came with it and 6 months a year during hunting season I replace them with Cooper Discovery STT 265/75/17. My temps remain the same = summer or winter, either tires.
 

Jelllo

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My idle temps on a 3.6 MT get over 215 on a hot day when sitting for a while. Do I have a 220 degree thermostat?
I think we have a ~195 thermostat. Keep in mind that means it just starts to open at 195.
 
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garkoi

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Did your 180Âş experiences come from Toyotas by chance?

210-240ÂşF is actually pretty common in LSX engines. Chevy/GM in general run hot....mostly for emissions is my understanding.
I owned and drove many cars, chevy mostly, most were pre 2000, If its mostly for emissions and fuel economy, how much are we reducing engine life to gain whatever it is we gain in exchange ?
 

zakaron

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The only lower temp thermostat I've seen is for a JK 3.6 made by RIPP. Pretty sure they are not interchangable with the JL though. But even if you did find a colder t-stat, you would want to have your PCM reprogrammed to lower the fan engagement temps as well. Having a colder t-stat at idle with no airflow across the radiator will have little benefit. As you mentioned, a possible bypass switch to turn the fans on manually can help if getting a PCM reflash is not an option.

One thing that I don't think was mentioned is to check the concentration of your coolant. Since you live in a hot climate and would not see the freezing temps that northern climates would, you can bias your water to antifreeze more toward the water side. Maybe like 70% water 30% antifreeze. Water does a better job at capturing heat than antifreeze, but you do not want to run straight water either. You still need lubricant for the water pump and anticorrosive additives to prevent rust and other buildup. Another product to look into is Water Wetter. I have never used it personally, but it is designed to further enhance the coolant properties to capture heat. Some reviews that I've read before say it does help keep temps several degrees cooler than without it. Again, I have no personal experience with it, but it sounds like you may benefit from any additional cooling help.
 

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2019 jeep wrangler jl sport 3.6 does not have radiator or drain plug, so for this how do you flush and refill coolant on this jeep?
 

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This thread has been a great read, I'm going to install a 169F thermostat in my Jeep and mount 3 radiators on the roof with mirrors pointing at them, thanks everyone!
 

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A diaphragm-type thermostat controls the operating temperature of the engine by controlling the amount of coolant flow to the radiator. The thermostat is located inside of the thermostat housing and is serviced with the housing as one unit. On all engines the thermostat begins to open at 88°C (190°F) to allow flow to the radiator. The thermostat is fully open by 100°C (212°F). This provides quick engine warm up and overall temperature control. The same thermostat is used for winter and summer seasons. An engine should not be operated without a thermostat, except for servicing or testing. Operating without a thermostat causes other problems such as longer engine warm-up time, unreliable warm-up performance, increased exhaust emissions and crankcase condensation. This condensation can result in sludge formation. The wax motor is located in a sealed container at the spring end of the thermostat. When heated, the internal wax expands, overcoming closing spring tension and water pump pressure to force the valve to open.
 

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You coooould, but why would you want to? That 3.6 Pentastar is pretty well proven and efficient. Lowering the operating temperature is more likely to decrease reliability and economy rather than improve either.


the jeep runs a bit too hot for my taste, so im looking for a lower thermostat, something in the 160-180 range.
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