You're probably right, I don't have experience with which sliders work and which don't. I was making assumptions based on the criticism I received about my step sliders choice, in which people were repeatedly telling me a slider must attach to the frame to be able to support the full weight of the vehicle. Again, I don't know this to be true, people say all kinds of things.Hi JD - what do you mean by "don't see the point since they both bolt onto body"?
Don't many effective/hardcore sliders still just bolt on around the pinch seam?
Looking for the mix of true slider protection, and a bit of a step. (the premium mopar rail was actually enough, but based on those pics from Tal, looks like they fall way short of true slider protection)
Compared to a day in the desert with the stock Rubicon sliders, and a day with the D6, I have far less dirt, gravel, rocks, sticks, etc to clean out of the interior than before. So even with the taper, I think the overall width of the step is blocking more.How do you think the D6's will protect the sides from rocks on the sides? Because of the taper from the front wheels going back, it looks like it will still let a lot get by and possibly still hit the hinges/doors...
Yeah I have the same problem with the rear steel bumper as well. Both rear quarters are pretty mashed in already.Wow @tgoss that's terrible.
I took mine off road and they supported the weight of the vehicle without issue and didn't noticeably flex. I have similar (but smaller) cuts/gouges in the lining on bottom of the rail on mine as well. Not overly excited about that, but it's mostly cosmetic.
My only issue I've had so far with parts flexing into the body is the steel rear bumper. That thing moved so much it left marks in the paint and ended up breaking the wiring to the rear backup sensors.
Thanks for sharing and helping people make informed decisions.
What did you end up replacing them with?
These Genrights are awesome!Yeah I have the same problem with the rear steel bumper as well. Both rear quarters are pretty mashed in already.
I'll be putting on either Genright or Evo Mfg rock sliders on, just haven't decided which one looks cleaner. I know they will both be frame mounted and stout so that's a non issue I just have a hard time with how particular I want things to look. Unfortunately now as much as I wanted to keep a "stock-ish" appearing JL it seems it's going to have to sport some aftermarket parts just to save the body from getting demolished completely.
I highly agree. Would just do them in a fine textured black instead of that gloss but those look pretty solid.These Genrights are awesome!
I think they're superior to my GoRhino's in that they bolt or weld onto the frame. Mine bolt onto the same holes in the body that the stock Rubicon rails go. I also like that little metal flap that hides the pinch seam from the outside.I highly agree. Would just do them in a fine textured black instead of that gloss but those look pretty solid.
I don't think either of the factory rock rails attach at the body bolts that have been troublesome for some. They attach at the pinch weld.Reviving this thread with a question for those who installed these steps.
I have a JLUR with the stock Rock rails. I also ordered the Mopar Performance Rails since I like the width. Did anyone have problems switching these out on their own without risking breaking a body bolt? I read that many people done this switching out various steps.
Just trying to decide if I should do this on my own or take it to a Jeep dealership service dept. I’m awaiting a labor price quote.
When he says body bolts, I think he meant the pinch seam bolts. The other bolts are the frame bolts that can be used for mounting sliders/steps.I don't think either of the factory rock rails attach at the body bolts that have been troublesome for some. They attach at the pinch weld.