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Another stupid rear defrost question

CJ-ING-RJ

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Alright guys I know this has been EXTENSIVELY talked about, but here we go again. I have had my rear defrost break off now 3 times. The first time they replaced the glass, the second time they did the conductive solder thing. Now that it has broken for a third time what do you all see as the best solution. I want to ask for glass again hoping that they finally figured it out from the factory.
JLUR 2018 22K miles.
Thanks RJ
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viper88

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Alright guys I know this has been EXTENSIVELY talked about, but here we go again. I have had my rear defrost break off now 3 times. The first time they replaced the glass, the second time they did the conductive solder thing. Now that it has broken for a third time what do you all see as the best solution. I want to ask for glass again hoping that they finally figured it out from the factory.
JLUR 2018 22K miles.
Thanks RJ
Ask for the new glass.
 
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CJ-ING-RJ

CJ-ING-RJ

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I never have used mine. Can't see anything out the rear glass anyway. Use the side mirrors.;):angel:
I very rarely use mine also, but I might as well fix it while it's still under warranty.
 

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00Sebby

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Ask for new glass and then make sure the cord is not pulling against the plug when the glass is opened. The cord on mine was pulled taut when the window was opened and I believe that tension caused it to pop off. I made sure the cord doesn't pull against the connection any more. Of course, I soldered mine back to the window with real solder so it's probably gonna stay anyway.

IMG_1069.jpeg
 

WagzDad

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Permatex defrost epoxy repair kit. It is best done on a low humidity day

Use a new grid attachment point and scuff in several directions with 2k sandpaper
Clean with lint free wipe and isopropyl alcohol
Let dry Then let dry some more. Gotta be totally totally dry
Trim the wire boot just a smidge (1mm) so the contact extends beyond the boot and can set flat on the new prepared contact point.
Sand and clean the wire contact like you did the glass point. Let it dry. Let it dry some more.

Are you getting the message that moisture is bad?..

while waiting for the contacts to dry, knead the epoxy packet very well. Knead it some more. The contents want to separate quickly. They must be well mixed when used, this is just a preparation step.
When you are very confident that the contact points are totally dry, open the activator packet and swab both contact points well in several directions. It will look like it dries instantly, but it takes at least 5 minutes. Knead the epoxy packet while you wait.

When you have allowed the activator to thoroughly dry and have re- mixed the epoxy packet again, snip the packet spout and squeeze out a bit to clean the spout. Then apply a small dot on the wire contact. More is not better! A 1mm dot is about right. You may want to try a couple practice dots on paper just to be sure. once you apply the epoxy, press it onto the prepared point on the glass grid and hold it in place for 5-10 minutes. Then tape it in place for 24 hours with blue tape. Do not try the defrost for at least 48 hours to allow time to cure. If itā€™s cool out, it will take more time to cure...best done in temps 60 to 80.

Or, if your warranty is still active, get them to do it.
 

00Sebby

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Trim the wire boot just a smidge (1mm) so the contact extends beyond the boot and can set flat on the new prepared contact point.
Why do you trim the boot? The piece that breaks off is inside the wire boot. It's a small hat-shaped terminal. You can remove it, glue/solder it back in place, then snap the wire boot back on.
 

TimmH

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Agree with @00Sebby, mine was taught as well, so I made sure it was clipped to allow some slack, I didn't zip-tie mine though
 

WagzDad

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Why do you trim the boot? The piece that breaks off is inside the wire boot. It's a small hat-shaped terminal. You can remove it, glue/solder it back in place, then snap the wire boot back on.
the boot is deeper than the contact on mine so it was applying constant ā€œpull offā€ pressure.
 

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Had mine fail last year but never really needed the defrost until this last month. It never worked when I pushed the button. Lit up, but never worked. So now I have to make another appointment for them to try to fix again. The first "fix" was to reset the connection on the window.
 
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CJ-ING-RJ

CJ-ING-RJ

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Update...
I talked to the dealer and was told that FCA requires they "try" and fix the connection, and if that fails they can take pictures and request a new window. By they way I forgot to mention, the first two times it was passenger side. This time it's driver's side.
 

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Part of the repair process is having constant heat on the new tab for at least 30 minutes. Yes. You actually need to hold a heat gun to it for at least 30 min. Which most techs donā€™t do Iā€™m assuming which is why many are still having issues. But that is actually stated in the repair procedure. My techs are able to rig a little stand so they donā€™t have to hold it for 30 min. The first time my tab was repaired using this process we didnā€™t do the heat for as long and it popped off the very next time I used it. Next time we did the heat gun for about 45 min and itā€™s been solid for the last few months and Iā€™ve used it many many times.
 

viper88

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Part of the repair process is having constant heat on the new tab for at least 30 minutes. Yes. You actually need to hold a heat gun to it for at least 30 min. Which most techs donā€™t do Iā€™m assuming which is why many are still having issues. But that is actually stated in the repair procedure. My techs are able to rig a little stand so they donā€™t have to hold it for 30 min. The first time my tab was repaired using this process we didnā€™t do the heat for as long and it popped off the very next time I used it. Next time we did the heat gun for about 45 min and itā€™s been solid for the last few months and Iā€™ve used it many many times.
Funny you mentioned the heat. I was at a dealer and wondered into the shop area. There was a rear defroster repair being done. I watched the Tech heat the glass a little and glue the tab and tape it in place. I don't believe he applied continuous heat afterwards? It would have been simple enough to place a heat gun on a tripod or stand and heat the glass for 30 minutes from the outside.
 

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Update...
I talked to the dealer and was told that FCA requires they "try" and fix the connection, and if that fails they can take pictures and request a new window. By they way I forgot to mention, the first two times it was passenger side. This time it's driver's side.
Hi CJ-ING-RJ,
Thanks for sharing you concerns here, I'm sorry to hear the trouble you have been having with this feature. If you would like our additional assistance while your vehicle is being serviced, feel free to loop us into a PM. We're happy to help!

Kathryn
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