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Another issue. 4 hi

MrMischief

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And no I do not sit down every time I buy something and read the manual cover to cover who the hell does that.
heh... I do. Not that I think doing so is "right" or "necessary" but it's a new toy and I want to play with it. So yeah I sat in my Jeep, in my garage, and read the manual cover to cover as I played with everything. I probably retained almost none of it though.
I have been offroading for almost 50 years here in Az
And never once felt drivetrain binding before? Either you weren't in a traditional 4x4 or you had tires with such limited traction they weren't able to cause binding (or you're forgetting, don't be ashamed old age is getting me too). Drivetrain binding is not a new thing. It's to be expected. In my opinion it is often overstated about how "bad" it is. It's not good for things, but it happens even when using the systems in an entirely reasonable manner and the drivetrain has been engineered for it. Your tires should slide/hop before anything breaks if you're being reasonable about it. That said, when I'm on high traction surfaces doing a tight turn, if I don't feel I need 4x4 or low range I will go back to 2wd to avoid the binding (and tighten up my turning radius). More road focused Jeeps (like the cherokee) seem to do this automagically at tight steering angles to prevent the binding.
 

SirMagnus89

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While trying to figure out my error codes something else happened that none of my previous 4x4’s have done.
I put it in 4 hi. Made a u turn on my home street. As I was turning, the front jumped and acted like I was trying to turn a locked front axle. But I dont have lockers. If I put in 4 hi I should be able to drive it on asphalt or hard pac without it freaking out. Once home I hooked up my flashcal to see errors. It showed the u0432, and the U0010. These are what I was trying to diagnose.
anyone experience this?
You must be trolling everyone right?...... there is no way in hell you are being serious.
 

Zandcwhite

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One last thought,

The reason I came here for to ask questions, were there’s thousands of people on this forum that of experienced all kinds of issues.
I’ve never read 1 page of the manual, but the reason the JL bucked so much as compared to your other vehicles is the short Wheelbase. The JL has a 6’ tighter turning radius than the JLU, and likely 10’ or more better than some of your examples. The tighter the turn radius, the more bind caused by a u-turn. The bucking was that bind unloading itself. Nothing is broken. No you didn’t cause your drag link to skip teeth, there’s far more force on it when hitting a pothole at speed or cornering quickly than making a u-turn wether in 4wd or not. If it moved that easy, we’d all be dead from it separating on the freeway(or at the least we’d need daily alignments) Theoretically the bind could be bad enough to break an axle shaft, u-joint, rezpa joint in the driveshaft, or even the chain in the transfer case, but it would be 100% obvious if that happened immediately. You didn’t cause some miracle wear or hairline crack that will somehow fail in the coming weeks. Driving in a straight line on the pavement won’t cause binding, thus in sporadic snow you can leave it in 4wd on the road.
 

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AlgUSF

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I’ve never read 1 page of the manual, but the reason the JL bucked so much as compared to your other vehicles is the short Wheelbase. The JL has a 6’ tighter turning radius than the JLU, and likely 10’ or more better than some of your examples. The tighter the turn radius, the more bind caused by a u-turn. The bucking was that bind unloading itself. Nothing is broken. No you didn’t cause your drag link to skip teeth, there’s far more force on it when hitting a pothole at speed or cornering quickly than making a u-turn wether in 4wd or not. If it moved that easy, we’d all be dead from it separating on the freeway(or at the least we’d need daily alignments) Theoretically the bind could be bad enough to break an axle shaft, u-joint, rezpa joint in the driveshaft, or even the chain in the transfer case, but it would be 100% obvious if that happened immediately. You didn’t cause some miracle wear or hairline crack that will somehow fail in the coming weeks. Driving in a straight line on the pavement won’t cause binding, thus in sporadic snow you can leave it in 4wd on the road.
Great answer to the OP's original question, very informative and I've learned a bit. The galloping sound is a warning, "Don't do this again". I agree, if the OP broke something it would be quite apparent right away.

Find a gravel road, drop it into 4H, and see what happens. Then drop it into 4L carefully and see what happens. Before I went wheeling the first time, I ran through the different transfer case modes in my neighborhood slowly and in a completely straight line.
 
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Longhair1957

Longhair1957

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You must be trolling everyone right?...... there is no way in hell you are being serious.
I guess I should have said that I hadn’t NOTICED the binding. It’s possible I never turned tight WHILE IN 4 hi on pavement. Probably only in dirt before. I am getting older and forgetful, mid 60’s, shit starts to go from memory!
 

DavidArmen

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While trying to figure out my error codes something else happened that none of my previous 4x4’s have done.
I put it in 4 hi. Made a u turn on my home street. As I was turning, the front jumped and acted like I was trying to turn a locked front axle. But I dont have lockers. If I put in 4 hi I should be able to drive it on asphalt or hard pac without it freaking out. Once home I hooked up my flashcal to see errors. It showed the u0432, and the U0010. These are what I was trying to diagnose.
anyone experience this?
Yes the axles have open differentials but the transfer case is locked in 4H/4L. The front axle spins faster than the rear axle when making a tight turn. Causing binding between the front and rear driveshafts. So one of the front wheels has to slip to reduce the binding and equalize axle rotation speeds.
In other words only use 4H/4L, when you know the wheels can easily slip on the surface (such as loose dirt) so no binding will occur.
 

Arterius2

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No you didn’t cause your drag link to skip teeth, there’s far more force on it when hitting a pothole at speed or cornering quickly than making a u-turn wether in 4wd or not. If it moved that easy, we’d all be dead from it separating on the freeway(or at the least we’d need daily alignments)
You didn't read what I wrote.
I said the drag-link could have skipped a teeth if the sleeve collar was not tight. There are several reports of Jeeps having lose nuts and bolts from factory. It doesn't hurt to check that its properly tightened.

Obviously this doesn't happen often, but it does happen.

It's pointless to compare this to a problem-free Jeep, just as pointless as if someone reporting that they lost their lug-nuts because the tire place forgot to torque them properly, and the me coming in being a smart-ass telling them that no, the ones on my Jeep is torqued properly, or we'd all be dead by now.
 

Zandcwhite

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I guess I should have said that I hadn’t NOTICED the binding. It’s possible I never turned tight WHILE IN 4 hi on pavement. Probably only in dirt before. I am getting older and forgetful, mid 60’s, shit starts to go from memory!
We hope to all be there some day. Shit happens. I’ve pulled off a trail on to the highway a few times forgetting that I was in 4wd (do a lot of off road driving in 2wd so I don’t equate going from dirt to pavement with shifting the tcase automatically). My old beater Cherokee with welded diffs was driven on highways and freeways too, so the “danger” of binding is over stated in my opinion. Yes it will increase tire wear, cause some unloading, and could cause a breakage with enough traction, but at street pressure it does not need much load to chirp a tire and unload the bind anyway. Obviously not the best practice, but definitely not doomsday level horror that some have made it out to be.
 

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DavidArmen

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I’ve never read 1 page of the manual, but the reason the JL bucked so much as compared to your other vehicles is the short Wheelbase. The JL has a 6’ tighter turning radius than the JLU, and likely 10’ or more better than some of your examples. The tighter the turn radius, the more bind caused by a u-turn. The bucking was that bind unloading itself. Nothing is broken. No you didn’t cause your drag link to skip teeth, there’s far more force on it when hitting a pothole at speed or cornering quickly than making a u-turn wether in 4wd or not. If it moved that easy, we’d all be dead from it separating on the freeway(or at the least we’d need daily alignments) Theoretically the bind could be bad enough to break an axle shaft, u-joint, rezpa joint in the driveshaft, or even the chain in the transfer case, but it would be 100% obvious if that happened immediately. You didn’t cause some miracle wear or hairline crack that will somehow fail in the coming weeks. Driving in a straight line on the pavement won’t cause binding, thus in sporadic snow you can leave it in 4wd on the road.
This is a very refreshing attitude towards wearing out these Dana axles over things like tire hopping during a u-turn compared to how most others here will tell you to replace your axle if you EVER put it in 4H on the pavement. I feel like most people don’t realize the forces involved when a 5,000 pound vehicle is operating at speed.
 

Zandcwhite

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You didn't read what I wrote.
I said the drag-link could have skipped a teeth if the sleeve collar was not tight. There are several reports of Jeeps having lose nuts and bolts from factory. It doesn't hurt to check that its properly tightened.

Obviously this doesn't happen often, but it does happen.

It's pointless to compare this to a problem-free Jeep, just as pointless as if someone reporting that they lost their lug-nuts because the tire place forgot to torque them properly, and the me coming in being a smart-ass telling them that no, the ones on my Jeep is torqued properly, or we'd all be dead by now.
If his driveshaft bolts were loose, he could have lost the driveshaft too, but I’m not going to suggest he torque every fastener on his Jeep because he made a u turn in 4 wheel drive. To each his own, but I’m guessing he’d know if his steering wheel were crooked and would have mentioned that in his post? My point was there’s more load on the drag link in daily driving than he caused making a slow speed u turn. If it were loose it would have presented itself under heavy load in my opinion?
 

Arterius2

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If his driveshaft bolts were loose, he could have lost the driveshaft too, but I’m not going to suggest he torque every fastener on his Jeep because he made a u turn in 4 wheel drive. To each his own, but I’m guessing he’d know if his steering wheel were crooked and would have mentioned that in his post? My point was there’s more load on the drag link in daily driving than he caused making a slow speed u turn. If it were loose it would have presented itself under heavy load in my opinion?
Since the trouble codes are related to ABS and traction control. It doesn't hurt to start looking where the problem would be most likely.

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/issue-after-installing-sector-shaft-brace.50542/

Someone here had the same codes and steering wheel off-center was one of the cause.
 

Arterius2

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This is a very refreshing attitude towards wearing out these Dana axles over things like tire hopping during a u-turn compared to how most others here will tell you to replace your axle if you EVER put it in 4H on the pavement. I feel like most people don’t realize the forces involved when a 5,000 pound vehicle is operating at speed.
Before you say that this sort of damage could never happen. This is from someone I know that unknowingly drove their Jeep in 4wd and/or lockers engaged on dry pavement for quite sometime.

Jeep Wrangler JL Another issue. 4 hi 73B56B73-8A02-439C-A3FB-84AFFDB8CD52


Jeep Wrangler JL Another issue. 4 hi A719E0E4-CDA6-4085-9EC4-F953514F3DAE


Jeep Wrangler JL Another issue. 4 hi 9DF4A002-3FE0-4D16-ABFB-06D9DC918840


Jeep Wrangler JL Another issue. 4 hi 192926B6-5171-4147-89D2-67F53438FBDE


Jeep Wrangler JL Another issue. 4 hi 381EE114-3234-4BCB-8CAE-0A1B7FD51BDB


Jeep Wrangler JL Another issue. 4 hi 8CD5FE1B-010B-472B-A7F1-2C95D0C0AAA3


Jeep Wrangler JL Another issue. 4 hi 65419216-8C14-4EE4-8B23-5771DD1FD112
 

Zandcwhite

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Before you say that this sort of damage could never happen. This is from someone I know that unknowingly drove their Jeep in 4wd and/or lockers engaged on dry pavement for quite sometime.

Jeep Wrangler JL Another issue. 4 hi 65419216-8C14-4EE4-8B23-5771DD1FD112


Jeep Wrangler JL Another issue. 4 hi 65419216-8C14-4EE4-8B23-5771DD1FD112


Jeep Wrangler JL Another issue. 4 hi 65419216-8C14-4EE4-8B23-5771DD1FD112


Jeep Wrangler JL Another issue. 4 hi 65419216-8C14-4EE4-8B23-5771DD1FD112


Jeep Wrangler JL Another issue. 4 hi 65419216-8C14-4EE4-8B23-5771DD1FD112


Jeep Wrangler JL Another issue. 4 hi 65419216-8C14-4EE4-8B23-5771DD1FD112


Jeep Wrangler JL Another issue. 4 hi 65419216-8C14-4EE4-8B23-5771DD1FD112
The pinion rubbing on the carrier caused by the pinion nut being loose, not caused by 4wd or lockers. The pinion won't move in the carrier because of any kind of binding if the pinion nut is tight. The only way for the pinion to move is loose fastners, the same as the drag link adjuster.
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