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AMSOIL are you folks believers?

Old Jeeper

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If you burnt off a quart every 200 miles that equals 15 quarts in 3,000 miles.
Correct you are my friend,. Back then the std oil pan was 5 quarts, so every 1000 mi and you are 1/2 quart down then at 2000 you are 1 qt down and time to change oil..

Thank you for catching my error!
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HungryHound

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This is one of those nonsense comments. Certification is a paid advertisement. When Amsoil and others are producing its own test results significantly higher then said "certification" results. That and were talking cents on the dollar. Don't make it seem you can perform an oil change for 10 bucks while Amsoil is 100$. You also didn't factor life expectancy of others vs Amsoil. Why would I run a cheap oil and filter change it every 6k when I can buy far superior in every aspect and double+ my interval. Heck the filter like WIX can run 3x the life.


Guys should post real life experience instead of BS! Let's see some test results.
The biggest opposition to extended oil changes addresses the acids, soot and other byproducts from the internal combustion engine that contaminate the oil at a level that the filter cannot affect. Sure, the oil doesn't break down as promised, but it can become contaminated and go unnoticed until it is changed again.

Changing it at 3,000 mile's is too soon with normal driving, but 10,000 miles would greatly increase chances of contamination from the engine or from around ir through the air intake. I change mine just before the engine monitoring algorithm says to do so.

A bigger factor is the oil filter. I made the mistake of buying a case of filters years ago to get a quantity discount. That was before I learned that the filter media breaks down over time. Of course, you never know how long a filter has been on the shelf, so it's safer to stay away from paper-based filters and go with a cotton style media.
 

XX4XEXX

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I've sent my oils out 6x already in different autos all over 12k miles and not once did we get uncertified results of passing. I use to cleanable filters with 50 micron mesh on our HDs but I run both Amsoil and WIX in the autos and trucks. One of my buddies is a master mechanic for a heavy equipment excavation corporation and he too runs all Amsoil but as mentioned my Uncle raced HD Top fuel and still holds records today for 1/4 mile all on Amsoil.

I'm very happy with the oils performance. I also run it in both diffs at 110 and the gears love it, they also come in bags!


Just for the post the 2 most highly certified oils were Panzo P and Walmart shelf brand. If your looking for the paid advertisement cert thing.

However Amsoil blew these results out of the water and will email the files. Every and all certs here in the US Amsoil surpassed in Europe decades ago they just didn't feed into the

Regardless, if your ok with dollar oil or higher end oil do your shade tree testing. After we hit AZ in the summer in stop and go traffic at 120°F I'll never use another oil again.
The biggest opposition to extended oil changes addresses the acids, soot and other byproducts from the internal combustion engine that contaminate the oil at a level that the filter cannot affect. Sure, the oil doesn't break down as promised, but it can become contaminated and go unnoticed until it is changed again.

Changing it at 3,000 mile's is too soon with normal driving, but 10,000 miles would greatly increase chances of contamination from the engine or from around ir through the air intake. I change mine just before the engine monitoring algorithm says to do so.

A bigger factor is the oil filter. I made the mistake of buying a case of filters years ago to get a quantity discount. That was before I learned that the filter media breaks down over time. Of course, you never know how long a filter has been on the shelf, so it's safer to stay away from paper-based filters and go with a cotton style media.
 

Mtrctylarry

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Increase the viscosity to xW-30 or xW-40. I use Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30 in mine and have a friend who has ran 0W-40 in his from the first oil change. He has nearly 115K on it now with zero issues.

Upping the viscosity will provide more protection than Amsoil ever will. They make great gear oil, their motor oils are overpriced and overrated.
Totally agree with upping the viscosity to 0wX30 or 40...20 weight is BS, just so manufactures can achieve the best 'So Called' EPA MPG rating. Cannot possibly protect an engine at max temps and load.
 

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Totally agree with upping the viscosity to 0wX30 or 40...20 weight is BS, just so manufactures can achieve the best 'So Called' EPA MPG rating. Cannot possibly protect an engine at max temps and load.
Jeep Wrangler JL AMSOIL are you folks believers? large_Clark-County-Today-Opinion-Value-nothing-more-than-the-truth


With VERY few exceptions, most of the design of the JL was for CAFE credits. Here from a post I have made many times:

There are many things in an OEMs decision tree that are 1000% geared towards cost savings and with most, it not all, anchored in CAFE. The vast majority of the decisions made around maintenance in the JL series are tied to CAFE which is not conducive to long life. I have posted this before...

The fact they are not concerned with longevity and are chasing CAFE is evident from the following design changes (I am certain there are more):

1. Reduction of axle fluid viscosity from Dana's recommendation - from 75W-140 to 75W-90
2. Reduction of axle fluid capacity in the rear axle from the JK series - from 2.375QTs to about 1.6QTs
3. Introduction of a FAD on the front axle
4. Reduction of engine oil capacity from 6QTs to 5QTs
5. Reduction of engine oil viscosity from 5W-30 to xW-20
6. Weight reductions across the board by lightening everything from the engine to the body to the suspension by introducing the maximum amount of plastics and aluminum
 

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GM and Toyota have required 0w20 for years.

Is the 3.6 still using 5w20? That spec has been since 2013.

It seems to protect for the use cases in which the vehicles are designed for. With Jeep that would definitely include high load and high temperatures.
 

CarbonSteel

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GM and Toyota have required 0w20 for years.

Is the 3.6 still using 5w20? That spec has been since 2013.

It seems to protect for the use cases in which the vehicles are designed for. With Jeep that would definitely include high load and high temperatures.
Except oils with higher HTHS numbers will provide more protection. Does the 3.6L require more than a xW-20 can provide? Possibly given the high oil temperatures that I have seen as the norm (>230F) in mine. The cost of the oil is the same no matter what viscosity you choose--I will err on the side of more protection versus less.

The 3.6L is also not as viscosity dependent as one would be led to believe either--there are plenty of variations in viscosity in xW-20 oils alone for that to be true. You can have a thick xW-20 and a thin xW-30 that are very close in viscosity.
 

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IMO..It is great oil, but way over priced!!!!! I really don't think that there are any bad engine oils out there today. They all have to meet mil-specs. The problem is the long oil change interval that some follow on their EVIC. One would be much better off to go back to the thinking, of choosing a change interval that you are comfortable with. But do not exceed 5000 miles. All that these EVIC oil change notifications do, are removing longevity from ones engine. The factory know this and loves it, because after warranty, they can sell more parts. Sure the oils of today will maintain the TBN longer, but what about silicon (dirt), carbon, condensation and fuel dilution, just think about it..........
 

jack bauer

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Totally agree with upping the viscosity to 0wX30 or 40...20 weight is BS, just so manufactures can achieve the best 'So Called' EPA MPG rating. Cannot possibly protect an engine at max temps and load.
What 0W 30 or 40 are you running?
 

dragoneggs

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I think 'Project Farms' oil tests are interesting and do prove the top shelf Amsoil and Pennzoil Platinum are great oils and appear to show that under extreme or extended use, will perform better than other cheaper oils... I still contend a regular more frequent change of oil and filter is far more effective way to manage the life of your engine than buying the most expensive brands.

Now if for some reason you are neglecting your engine, maybe the 'better' oil will earn you back a little life, but then again, I doubt those that are paying top dollar for oil are trying to extend the life of the oil and filter.
 
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John VonJeep

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Jeep Wrangler JL AMSOIL are you folks believers? large_Clark-County-Today-Opinion-Value-nothing-more-than-the-truth


With VERY few exceptions, most of the design of the JL was for CAFE credits. Here from a post I have made many times:

There are many things in an OEMs decision tree that are 1000% geared towards cost savings and with most, it not all, anchored in CAFE. The vast majority of the decisions made around maintenance in the JL series are tied to CAFE which is not conducive to long life. I have posted this before...

The fact they are not concerned with longevity and are chasing CAFE is evident from the following design changes (I am certain there are more):

1. Reduction of axle fluid viscosity from Dana's recommendation - from 75W-140 to 75W-90
2. Reduction of axle fluid capacity in the rear axle from the JK series - from 2.375QTs to about 1.6QTs
3. Introduction of a FAD on the front axle
4. Reduction of engine oil capacity from 6QTs to 5QTs
5. Reduction of engine oil viscosity from 5W-30 to xW-20
6. Weight reductions across the board by lightening everything from the engine to the body to the suspension by introducing the maximum amount of plastics and aluminum
So you're putting 6 quarts in?
 

CarbonSteel

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So you're putting 6 quarts in?
No; FCA reduced the capacity from 6 to 5 when the 2017+ engine redesign happened. Weight reduction for MPG...

PPE does make a 6qt pan for the JL.
 

TheRaven

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GM and Toyota have required 0w20 for years.
I just wanted to add to this question about the 0W-20 oil...if you have a GM AFM/DFM (their name for DoD) motor and they find out you are running a viscosity higher than 20, they will void your engine warranty. A TSB came out during the whole "bad batch of rockers" fiasco that warned dealers that 0W-20 is a requirement in AFM/DFM motors due to the VLOM design. I ain't messin with that.

Due to the above, i'd be inclined to just follow FCA's recommendation too, but the more time I own this FCA product, the more I realize that FCA definitely ain't like GM so I dunno. Plus these engines don't have DoD.
 

Kracka

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I'm not an Amsoil guy in the least for multiple reasons, but even they don't suggest running a thicker oil than specified. 0W & 5W-20 oils have served me just fine even in the extreme Texas summer heat. I've also stuck with the OEM-specified weights in the differentials (but switched to Redline vs. Mopar). People are free to make their own choices and decisions. YMMV.

https://blog.amsoil.com/5w-20-vs-5w-30-vs-10w-30-whats-the-difference/
 
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sf5211

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Did they give u any compensation? or is it all out your pocket? I can only imagine the excuses they gave for not being responsible..
Yes buddy, under warranty
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