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AMSOIL are you folks believers?

Petey

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Pete, great post and I have to agree with you. I baby this Jeep, I don’t put a load on the engine until the idle kicks down. So I basically let it warm up even in the summer. Use quality oil, never lug the engine (stick shift), very few cold starts, (garage kept), always disable that stupid ESS. I don’t know what I could’ve done different.
Here’s a pic of my cam. There are 6 yellow reflections. Check the 3rd yellow you can actually see the wear.

IMG_5737.jpeg
the question is now how many more of us should have to deal with this.. chrysler should get sued . they are selling faulty engines and ...i forgot to ask did you have valve train noises and how early on they started
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pablo_max3045

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As long as you change your oil regularly and the oil meets the specs called out for in the manual, it makes no difference to the life of your engine, despite protestations to the contrary.
 
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the question is now how many more of us should have to deal with this.. chrysler should get sued . they are selling faulty engines and ...i forgot to ask did you have valve train noises and how early on they started
About 4-5 months ago Pete.
 
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sf5211

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Amsoil is “100% synthetic”—Big difference from “full synthetic”
I’ve used Amsoil exclusively on my Jeeps; highly recommend spending a little more, knowing you’re putting premium fluids in your wrangler.
I did not know that. Thank you JD
 

CarbonSteel

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I did not know that. Thank you JD
The definition (at least in the US as opposed to places like Germany) of what constitutes "synthetic" is ambiguous at best so full vs. 100% differentiates nothing.
 

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roaniecowpony

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I was on the Amsoil site yesterday and saw the term "full synthetic" used by them as well.
 

Tncdrew

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Are all the other multitudes of Stellantis products that use this engine variant experiencing this rate of failure?
Seriously asking here...

I too use a high quality synthetic (brand IMO makes no difference) oil, and change at 5K intervals. I have to admit, reading these posts, and seeing these pics of cam failures, has me really questioning this 3.6....

I guess only time will tell.
 

Barney392

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Multiple AMSOIL products are API certified for those who need the little donut. Bowing out at this point as this is how all these oil debates go. Everyone is going to stick with what they’ve been doing.

OP, good luck with your oil decision.

IMG_5537.jpeg
Just so you know that is not the API Doughnut.
Here is example of the real thing;

Jeep Wrangler JL AMSOIL are you folks believers? API-Dognut
 

Old Jeeper

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Also there is no need to change oil before the recommended intervals under normal driving conditions. Waste of money. People are weird about oil.
LOL, YOU NAILED IT.

The "3000" mi oil change interval was based upon how much oil the average engine may burn before it got to low, so you needed to check every 3000 mi and lo and behold you are a quart low and time to change oil.

Back then a typical car engine would burn off a quart of oil every 2000 mi, leaving you a quart low at the 3k mark so you changed oil...this thinking was passed down from Granddad, to son, to his son and sill being done today.

Change oil WHEN the dashboard says it time or the book says every 10k miles or whatever
 
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NWJeepr

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Most oil being used in cars back in the days of the "3,000 mile" oil change wasn't synthetic, either. In addition to increased consumption mentioned above, combustion wasn't as complete or as precise as it is in modern engines, which would dirty the oil a lot quicker and use up the additives. Fuel dilution was also a bigger issue with carburetors.

I admit, I change early at 5k and for superstitious reasons. For certain engines there is good data supporting the idea that the prescribed oil change interval wasn't enough to prevent serious issues. Examples of that are early GM 3.6 engines. The vehicles were later recalled and the oil life monitor reprogrammed to require more frequent oil change intervals. Early AFM small-blocks have also shown benefit from more frequent oil changes to prevent lifter failure. Audi's early 1.8T and 2.0T's, earlier to prevent sludging.

One more thing I don't like about Amsoil is the idea that buying their "superior" oil is license to extend oil change intervals to as high as 25,000 miles. I tend to listen to the vehicle manufacturers who say the use of synthetics is NOT license to extend beyond their prescribed change intervals.
 

Petey

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I did not know that. Thank you JD
Are all the other multitudes of Stellantis products that use this engine variant experiencing this rate of failure?
Seriously asking here...

I too use a high quality synthetic (brand IMO makes no difference) oil, and change at 5K intervals. I have to admit, reading these posts, and seeing these pics of cam failures, has me really questioning this 3.6....

I guess only time will tell.
worried too.. that cam looks like it should be a weird table leg .. not a part in an engine
 

Petey

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Most oil being used in cars back in the days of the "3,000 mile" oil change wasn't synthetic, either. In addition to increased consumption mentioned above, combustion wasn't as complete or as precise as it is in modern engines, which would dirty the oil a lot quicker and use up the additives. Fuel dilution was also a bigger issue with carburetors.

I admit, I change early at 5k and for superstitious reasons. For certain engines there is good data supporting the idea that the prescribed oil change interval wasn't enough to prevent serious issues. Examples of that are early GM 3.6 engines. The vehicles were later recalled and the oil life monitor reprogrammed to require more frequent oil change intervals. Early AFM small-blocks have also shown benefit from more frequent oil changes to prevent lifter failure. Audi's early 1.8T and 2.0T's, earlier to prevent sludging.

One more thing I don't like about Amsoil is the idea that buying their "superior" oil is license to extend oil change intervals to as high as 25,000 miles. I tend to listen to the vehicle manufacturers who say the use of synthetics is NOT license to extend beyond their prescribed change intervals.
I did not know that. Thank you JD
@ this point viscosity might make a better difference then the brand ..
 

Thunderjet

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LOL, YOU NAILED IT.

Back then a typical car engine would burn off a quart of oil every 200 mi, leaving you a quart low at the 3k mark so you changed oil...this thinking was passed down from Granddad, to son, to his son and sill being done today.
If you burnt off a quart every 200 miles that equals 15 quarts in 3,000 miles.
 

HungryHound

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Premature wear on cams/lifters is a known issue with some Pentastar 3.6's regardless of what kind of oil you put into it which meets manufacturer spec and maintenance requirements..

Amsoil is good oil, but my personal take is it's not worth the extra cost when other brands like a high quality Pennzoil or Mobil product will also make an engine last longer than the rest of the vehicle chassis.

My two issues with Amsoil: Even though they claim and have good data that the quality of their oil exceeds specifications defined by industry certifications, i.e. API, ILSAC, etc, they seem to refuse to participate in those certification programs citing additional cost passed on to the consumer. That would make sense if their oil was actually cheaper than their certified competitors, but it's typically more expensive. This can also theoretically create issues under warranty and provide grounds to deny warranty claims on an engine when a vehicle's warranty explicitly specifies a particular grade and certification of engine oil. Now, Amsoil says they will provide their own warranty, and I don't distrust that, but, IMO, this is all adding too many layers of complication should something go wrong.

The second issue is the stuff is sold like Mary Kay products, i.e. MLM, multilevel marketing. Blah blah, let's just say I prefer to be able to walk into almost anywhere and pick up another name-brand oil off the shelf without having to buy through a guy, although you can sometimes buy Amsoil off the shelf too. The marketing network for Amsoil has a lot of forum shills who perpetually push their product and engage in debate in oil threads to defend their products (right or wrong) and act like your friend so you'll buy stuff. No thank you.

Until my warranty is up, and after that, I will continue to use API SP, ILSAC GF-6A 5w30 -spec oils in my Jeep's engine (oil spec for the 2.0). If some guy says his boutique oil meets that spec too, then I say, great, list it on your bottle because it does, in fact, mean something.
Amen!
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