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Aluminum soft shackle recovery rings?

roaniecowpony

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And with that sleeve on there they will have too much friction to work according it factor 55...
I haven't had a chance to use mine, but I'll keep that in mind. The sleeve installation is tighter than Roseanne's undies. There is no movement of the sleeve or wrinkles. It has a particularly slick feel against the ring.
 
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roaniecowpony

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...but certainly could be used either way.
16702866149236380511885276788390.jpg
 
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J0E

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The big deal about these is if the attachment point breaks, would you rather have a 5 or 6 pound steel snatch block flying towards your head at a million miles an hour -- or a less than 2 pound aluminum ring? Yes, snatch blocks are the best when it comes to functionality. And there is less friction in a bearing based snatch block, but the winch line moves the pulley so slowly I really don't think it matters.
My reply:

a 55 grain .223 bullet is 0.12571429 Ounces.

EDIT: but weight is a consideration for an in vehicle projectile. I keep my snatch block under the seat for that reason and it's a PITA to recover. I'm going to get a large diameter snatch ring as I can stow it in my tailgate bag.


Now I need to apologize after using a snatch ring. My opinion, it's far safer under tension. If for some reason you need to be in the cab, open your hood. The snatch ring won't go through your hood and kill you, not so sure about a snatch block.

After using a snatch ring multiple times Sunday, I'd say it has major advantages over a snatch block:

  1. Safer under tension.
  2. Safer in the rig. I need to story my heavy snatch block secured under the seat. It's a PITA to get it out. But snatch block missile will kill you.
  3. Easy to pull the SS and snatch ring off the back roll bar.
  4. Super fast and easy to hook up.
In one recovery where I was pulling, my JLR was dragged 5 feet and the recovered rig moved 7 inches to get free. The snatch ring was warm to touch, but not hot.

But why should I use a snatch ring?
  • You have only 60% rated power on the last wrap.
  • Smoked a 12K winch with a snatch block. Imagine if they didn't double the pulling power?
I did multiple recoveries with my 12 SuperWinch and snatch ring Sunday. The Tazer holding 2,000 RPM is really cool, now I just need to figure out how to go back to normal idle.
 

Zandcwhite

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https://yankum.com/products/offset-winch-ring

This ought to stir the pot even more, lol!
Seems counterintuitive to put an abrasion sleeve on the stationary non-moving anchor side to me. Even if friction is higher with the ring on the sleeve, I'll stick with running it that way until the friction gets so high that my 12k lb winch can't make the pull. The day that happens I'll flip it around and try it factor 55s way (I don't see that being a thing as 24k lb pulling capacity in a double line pull will likely snap the line or rip the bumper off first). Another thing to think about though is the fact these companies are in the business of selling soft shackles and recommend replacement when there's a fray. Most of us will never use our gear enough to wear through the abrasion sleeve, but you could easily abraid the soft shackle on one hard pull in a dirty environment.
 

roaniecowpony

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Seems counterintuitive to put an abrasion sleeve on the stationary non-moving anchor side to me. Even if friction is higher with the ring on the sleeve, I'll stick with running it that way until the friction gets so high that my 12k lb winch can't make the pull. The day that happens I'll flip it around and try it factor 55s way (I don't see that being a thing as 24k lb pulling capacity in a double line pull will likely snap the line or rip the bumper off first). Another thing to think about though is the fact these companies are in the business of selling soft shackles and recommend replacement when there's a fray. Most of us will never use our gear enough to wear through the abrasion sleeve, but you could easily abraid the soft shackle on one hard pull in a dirty environment.
You shouldn't snap the line just from applying the force of a pulley or two. It would equallly distribute the load on each leg of the pull]]
 
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J0E

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Seems counterintuitive to put an abrasion sleeve on the stationary non-moving anchor side to me. Even if friction is higher with the ring on the sleeve, I'll stick with running it that way until the friction gets so high that my 12k lb winch can't make the pull. The day that happens I'll flip it around and try it factor 55s way (I don't see that being a thing as 24k lb pulling capacity in a double line pull will likely snap the line or rip the bumper off first). Another thing to think about though is the fact these companies are in the business of selling soft shackles and recommend replacement when there's a fray. Most of us will never use our gear enough to wear through the abrasion sleeve, but you could easily abraid the soft shackle on one hard pull in a dirty environment.
as 24k lb pulling capacity in a double line pull will likely snap the line or rip the bumper off first

With 12K pull, the line has 12K tension on it, the two attachments combine to 24K. Pullies don't increase line tension. 12K center and 12K on one side of the bumper. That ends up being 18K on one side and 6K on the other. I would think a good bumper properly installed should handle that. Just don't go in mud.
 

roaniecowpony

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Zandcwhite

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as 24k lb pulling capacity in a double line pull will likely snap the line or rip the bumper off first

With 12K pull, the line has 12K tension on it, the two attachments combine to 24K. Pullies don't increase line tension. 12K center and 12K on one side of the bumper. That ends up being 18K on one side and 6K on the other. I would think a good bumper properly installed should handle that. Just don't go in mud.
Line wise you are correct, but the winch and line end are both attached to the same bumper if you're stuck bad enough for a double line pull. You are absolutely putting up to 24klbs of force on the front of the jeep as explained in the video.
 
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roaniecowpony

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If you are stuck it's probably better to run a single pulley (double line) and a bridle on two attach points of the front to split the load on both horns of the frame.

Sometimes we know we just need a little tug to get going, but if there's any likelyhood of a hard pull, having it setup for a double line w/bridle pull will reduce the possibility of a broken line by great deal, go easier on your winch and electrics, and provide the opportunity to spread the load out on multiple point on the vehicle, even if it's within the capacity of you winch without the use of a pulley.
 

Zandcwhite

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If you are stuck it's probably better to run a single pulley (double line) and a bridle on two attach points of the front to split the load on both horns of the frame.

Sometimes we know we just need a little tug to get going, but if there's any likelyhood of a hard pull, having it setup for a double line w/bridle pull will reduce the possibility of a broken line by great deal, go easier on your winch and electrics, and provide the opportunity to spread the load out on multiple point on the vehicle, even if it's within the capacity of you winch without the use of a pulley.
Yes and no, the winch is bolted to the same frame rails as those attachment points after all. I'll tend to at least try a simple single line pull for ease and speed 1st. If the winch is starting to really load up without any movement, then it's time to get more creative with the rigging, maybe do some jacking/rock stacking/or digging, etc to facilitate the recovery. With experience, you'll be able to tell how stuck you are and how much you are loading up your winch, no need to over think it and put in a punch of extra work as well as extra potential failure points unnecessarily. K.I.S.S. as they say.
 

Zandcwhite

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