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Aluminum soft shackle recovery rings?

DadJokes

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I can’t recall where I read this now (here or Overland Bound) but they claimed with a temp probe measured a 7 degree Celsius temp increase over the course of 20-30 ft. I’m sure searching will turn up what you’re looking for. Worst case, I figure just keep a spare soft shackle as that seems to be the one taking the wear and tear.
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Hayseed_JLUR

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I can’t recall where I read this now (here or Overland Bound) but they claimed with a temp probe measured a 7 degree Celsius temp increase over the course of 20-30 ft. I’m sure searching will turn up what you’re looking for. Worst case, I figure just keep a spare soft shackle as that seems to be the one taking the wear and tear.
I saw that one too. Is a 7C rise detrimental to the soft shackle or not - that seems to be the question.
 

Chocolate Thunder

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That amount of heat doesn’t seem like a lot to me. However is the amount of surface abrasion being measured? The more I think about it, the more it seems insignificant from a practical standpoint.

I don’t wheel every weekend or even every month. For people who use this equipment routinely it might matter. I have it “just in case” and I haven’t been able to get my Jeep stuck yet or run across someone in need of help who didn’t have recovery gear, so maybe I’ll never need it.
 

American Adventurist

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It seems like this method works fine, but causes a lot more friction and thereby wear on your straps compared to using a snatch block. No?
It does. And friction is the enemy of your expensive synthetic lines.

There's a lot of misinformation about them. Anyone who says friction is minimal with these rings is either A. giving you a BS answer to sell you one or B, has never pulled 50 feet of line through one hard. You don't need speed to cause friction if you have enough load.

That said, they're not "new" and have been used in sailing forever.

https://www.velasailingsupply.com/tylaska-ring-ferrule-fr26-for-1-in-line-38mm-id-x-96mm-od/

Applications

Ferrules are ideal for applications such as barber haulers, spinnaker twings or other uses that have small turning angles and little line movement. They also work great for backstay adjusters when used in a high purchase cascade configuration. Ferrules start having frictional heating and wear problems when there is significant line movement so conventional pulleys are still better for applications such as mainsheet and halyard blocks.
I can see using one to redirect a winch line that's being used to steady a vehicle and as an anchor.

Just as the friction increased the load on the winch it can be used to increase the holding strength of a winch line being used to steady a vehicle. Instead of a pulley it's being used as a capstan.

But that's about it for me. Not something I'll buy or carry around, and I certainly don't advocate their use in place of a properly tested and rated, quality pulley block.

Want the best recovery gear money can buy? Check out Safe-Xtract. This is what SOCOM is using in Afghanistan and Africa right now.

gear-collage.png
 
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RockyMtnHigh

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I beg to differ. As long as the ring that the winch line is feeding through is moving (at the same rate as the rope, no slippage) then the winch line see's no additional friction. Your soft shackle however, see's a lot of friction. I've drawn up a diagram illustrating this point. The snatch ring setup on the left, and the traditional snatch block on the right. Again, this assumes there is no slippage in the winch line on the snatch ring. That seems to be the case, but there is no way to know for sure. Also, the traditional snatch block could also have slippage if your bearing is bound up.
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RockyMtnHigh

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Color me clueless but what exactly is so broken with the traditional snatch block design that this is fixing?
Nothing's broken. Arguably however, a one piece design has a lot going for it. Nothing TO break, no moving parts, lighter, and cheaper.
 
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cosmokenney

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Color me clueless but what exactly is so broken with the traditional snatch block design that this is fixing?
The big deal about these is if the attachment point breaks, would you rather have a 5 or 6 pound steel snatch block flying towards your head at a million miles an hour -- or a less than 2 pound aluminum ring? Yes, snatch blocks are the best when it comes to functionality. And there is less friction in a bearing based snatch block, but the winch line moves the pulley so slowly I really don't think it matters.
 
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American Adventurist

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Color me clueless but what exactly is so broken with the traditional snatch block design that this is fixing?
Nothing. But now there’s new overland bling that you NEED...

;)
 

1996cc

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Color me clueless but what exactly is so broken with the traditional snatch block design that this is fixing?
with this logic, you wouldn't have lights in your house and would still be using oil lamps. ‍♂♂
 
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cosmokenney

cosmokenney

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Used the ring to winch out a full sized Silverado on Thursday. He was buried in snow up to his axels. Poor young dude in a t-shirt and no gloves was digging out with his hands.

I used the ring to increase my winch pulling power. Two bumps of the winch and he was out.
 

Hayseed_JLUR

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Used the ring to winch out a full sized Silverado on Thursday. He was buried in snow up to his axels. Poor young dude in a t-shirt and no gloves was digging out with his hands.

I used the ring to increase my winch pulling power. Two bumps of the winch and he was out.
Did you notice any marring or melting of the the rope or shackle? It doesn't sound like you used it too much or enough to really notice anything.
 
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cosmokenney

cosmokenney

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Did you notice any marring or melting of the the rope or shackle? It doesn't sound like you used it too much or enough to really notice anything.
Here's a picture after use. No sign of wear at all. The coating on the rings is slick like Teflon or something. And to be fair there is no way the rings would have gotten hot since we were in the snow. It was about 31 degrees. Just an FYI, I did add the shrink tube near the knots to keep the string wraps (like the red ones you see near the loops on the opposite end) in place. When I received them from the factory, the wraps were loose and I had trouble tightening them.
SoftShackels.jpg
 

roaniecowpony

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Color me clueless but what exactly is so broken with the traditional snatch block design that this is fixing?
I know this is an old thread but people search and this thread automatically associates in a list below for similar subjects. So I think this question is worth responding to.

A traditional steel "snatch block " weighs from a few times more than a soft shackle and aluminum ring, to many times more.

With one pulley, whether a steel snatch block or aluminum ring, I can double the pulling force, while keeping the loads on the winch and rope the same. More pulleys, more force. With 2 pulleys, I can also winch a vehicle sideways (which I have had to do). With 3 pulleys I can have 4 times the pull or i can rig to winch backwards. More pulleys, whether steel snatch block or aluminum ring, give you more capabilities. Now who wants to haul 3 steel snatch blocks around?
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