Aluminum skid plate for diesel

Big Rob

Well-Known Member
First Name
Rob
Joined
Mar 30, 2017
Messages
69
Reaction score
61
Location
DFDub
Vehicle(s)
2008 JKU 2020 JLURD on order 2008 JKU 2015 GMC Denali Tow Pig
Like they’re not even there. No exaggeration. The 0-60 is still 7.5 seconds in 4-high. Obviously, 0-60 isn’t useful metric for off-road rigs. But it was the only objective measurement I could think of benchmarking the rig’s ability to rotate the additional mass.
In 2-high, the rear wheels spun and chirped. So there’s certainly no shortcomings in power.
From a body mod and suspension perspective; I saw plenty of videos about rubbing and such with 37s on stock, so before I even installed the beadlocks and 37s, I removed the front and rear inner fenders, installed the AAL DRL brackets in the front and rough country inner fenders in the front and rear. That made the rig easily road-worthy on 37s. Then I put on a 2.5” Rock Krawler Adventure Series 3 lift to ensure I had the up-travel needed for off-road.
Thanks for the feedback....I have a MC lift headed my way and 37's that have been sitting for a while...looking forward to getting it all going...
 
OP
Dasher320

Dasher320

Well-Known Member
First Name
Dave
Joined
Jan 18, 2020
Messages
146
Reaction score
329
Location
Atlanta
Vehicle(s)
1986 CJ7, 2003 TJ, 2020 JLUR
Occupation
Pilot
Vehicle Showcase
3
  • Thread starter
  • Thread Starter
  • #17
Thanks for the feedback....I have a MC lift headed my way and 37's that have been sitting for a while...looking forward to getting it all going...
I just put the MC 3.5 Game Changer on my diesel and I will be going to 37's as soon as I get the wheels. Going on 3 months now waiting for wheels from AEV--will likely be the last thing I ever order from them. I know they're a good company and COVID blah blah blah, but at this point I'm just pissed. If you are going 3.5 inches you will need to reroute the e-brake cables and every electrical connection that goes to both axles. I'm also considering new brake lines because they are stretched all the way out at full droop. Since I still have the stock wheels and tires I had to completely remove the rear sway bar until I get the correct backspacing. Also on the rear upper control arms the directions say to put the adjustable end to the rear--what they mean is on the frame side which isn't toward the rear of the Jeep. The adjustable end joint of the rear upper control arms are canted so they are only adjustable in 360 degree increments. If you turn them 180 degrees and they bend in the wrong direction they are really hard to get in, will bind, and are really hard to get back out. Ask me how I know LOL. If you have an ABS, ESS, and Service 4WD light when you get done you probably cut one of the ABS sensors--again ask me how I know.
 

Advertisement




Northridge4x4
 



Advertisement
Top