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ALUMINUM bumpers ONLY. Let's see them!

DanW

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Why would I want an aluminum bumper? Aluminum is softer than steel and is probably not as durable. Are the weight savings really that big of a deal? Other than weight, what are the advantages of aluminum?

Give me a steel bumper any day of the week.
Actually, pound for pound, aluminum is stronger than steel. So you can get the same strength with less weight. And it doesn't rust.

Weight IS a big deal. The more weight your Jeep gains, the more it saps power and fuel economy. It also takes more tractive force to move a heavier Jeep. So it gets stuck easier and is harder to recover. Higher weight also puts more stress on drive train components. And finally, aluminum doesn't rust.
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mikej

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I really like Gen right too. Their parts all seem to be really nice quality. (had their crawler gas tank in my TJ).
I am just not sure if I am willing to give up the factory fog lights.

Your set up looks awesome!
Depending on your budget, there's the Baja Designs SAE lights which you can wire to your fog light button: https://www.bajadesigns.com/products/Squadron-SAE.asp

I use those on my steel bumper that doesn't have fog light provisions. It gives you more options if you give up the factory fogs.

That said, I'm pondering switching to an aluminum bumper for weight reasons. If I do, I'll go this route: https://nextventuremotorsports.com/products/jl-aluminum-front-bumper-featherweight-series
 
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rubiRI77

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Depending on your budget, there's the Baja Designs SAE lights which you can wire to your fog light button: https://www.bajadesigns.com/products/Squadron-SAE.asp

I use those on my steel bumper that doesn't have fog light provisions. It gives you more options if you give up the factory fogs.

That said, I'm pondering switching to an aluminum bumper for weight reasons. If I do, I'll go this route: https://nextventuremotorsports.com/products/jl-aluminum-front-bumper-featherweight-series
Awesome! Thanks very much for the info on the lights! Those look perfect if I go with something that loses the factory fogs.

And yes, I have been looking at Next Venture too. Have only see a few pics on lite brites' jeep though. Would really like to see more from different angles.
Thank s again:like:
 

D90John

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I just installed the Rockhard mid width front bumper. I have the rival back bumper as well and the two don’t seem to clash too much. Both are of good quality and easy to install

13147D22-3479-4102-AFCA-7BCB1FB94DE8.jpeg


000B3CD5-4FC4-4391-B9A1-08A0B3D1A230.jpeg
 
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rubiRI77

rubiRI77

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I just installed the Rockhard mid width front bumper. I have the rival back bumper as well and the two don’t seem to clash too much. Both are of good quality and easy to install

Jeep Wrangler JL ALUMINUM bumpers ONLY. Let's see them! 000B3CD5-4FC4-4391-B9A1-08A0B3D1A230


Jeep Wrangler JL ALUMINUM bumpers ONLY. Let's see them! 000B3CD5-4FC4-4391-B9A1-08A0B3D1A230
Both are looking really good! :like:
It is very difficult to choose. Thanks for sharing!
 

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DadJokes

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Never Again. I would NOT go with this bumper when using a Warn Zeon 10k or larger at least. Way too much grinding on the winch itself, light grinding on the plate, grinding on the nut plates to get them to fit in the extremely tight “crevice” that was about the width of the nuts themselves. And then using a screwdriver to slide the nut down VERY carefully through that crevice down to the threads and using another screwdriver to wedge the side AND start the bolt into the nut...

Pain in the ass. It took me off and on two days with all the test fits. Had to grind on the frame tabs taking off about 1/8 on the insides too. Looks good but if it comes off, I’m recycling the aluminum lol.

76BCC9C8-6809-4E4E-A0DE-CE24DE92AE1A.jpeg
 
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rubiRI77

rubiRI77

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Never Again. I would NOT go with this bumper when using a Warn Zeon 10k or larger at least. Way too much grinding on the winch itself, light grinding on the plate, grinding on the nut plates to get them to fit in the extremely tight “crevice” that was about the width of the nuts themselves. And then using a screwdriver to slide the nut down VERY carefully through that crevice down to the threads and using another screwdriver to wedge the side AND start the bolt into the nut...

Pain in the ass. It took me off and on two days with all the test fits. Had to grind on the frame tabs taking off about 1/8 on the insides too. Looks good but if it comes off, I’m recycling the aluminum lol.

Jeep Wrangler JL ALUMINUM bumpers ONLY. Let's see them! 76BCC9C8-6809-4E4E-A0DE-CE24DE92AE1A
Well that really stinks. At least after all that, it looks awesome :like:
Thanks very much for the info. That is really good to know
 

Lohkay

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Never Again. I would NOT go with this bumper when using a Warn Zeon 10k or larger at least. Way too much grinding on the winch itself, light grinding on the plate, grinding on the nut plates to get them to fit in the extremely tight “crevice” that was about the width of the nuts themselves. And then using a screwdriver to slide the nut down VERY carefully through that crevice down to the threads and using another screwdriver to wedge the side AND start the bolt into the nut...

Pain in the ass. It took me off and on two days with all the test fits. Had to grind on the frame tabs taking off about 1/8 on the insides too. Looks good but if it comes off, I’m recycling the aluminum lol.

Jeep Wrangler JL ALUMINUM bumpers ONLY. Let's see them! 76BCC9C8-6809-4E4E-A0DE-CE24DE92AE1A

Huh... that sucks, I contacted genright and they assured me that combo works. The bumper is already ordered, I guess I'll measure it out before ordering the winch.
 

DadJokes

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Huh... that sucks, I contacted genright and they assured me that combo works. The bumper is already ordered, I guess I'll measure it out before ordering the winch.
I am a good fabricator. That’s why I had the tools and improvising skills needed. Unfortunately, this was NOT bolt on.

Genright says you “might” have to grind “here” (on the back) on the winch. I was not happy about grinding on a $1800+ winch but ok. Then it was more ....and more ....on the back of the winch taking off those pointy parts about 1.5” or so to either side of the spool. THEN is was the winch plate too where those points WERE previously making contact. AND THEN....it was the front but in the same spots as the back. FINALLY, the winch fully dropped in. Then the supplied nut plates... they’ll work if you basically cut off 90% of the metal on either side of the nut basically making it where zipping them on lightly rips the metal. My memory is getting fuzzy but I ended up having to totally remove at least some of the nuts from the plates as the nut plates could NOT go down either side of the winch. That’s when I used screwdrivers as a guide to let the nut slide down it toward the end of the bolts. Keep in mind there’s an assembly and test fit each attempt!

I had to grind even more on the right front of the winch to make room for the gold colored threaded machined insert that let’s the right side of the fairlead have a bolting point.

I know you’re excited for it probably but even if you only have half the issues I did, it’s ridiculous. With all sincerity, I’d turn that thing right back where it came from. lol
 
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rubiRI77

rubiRI77

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I am a good fabricator. That’s why I had the tools and improvising skills needed. Unfortunately, this was NOT bolt on.

Genright says you “might” have to grind “here” (on the back) on the winch. I was not happy about grinding on a $1800+ winch but ok. Then it was more ....and more ....on the back of the winch taking off those pointy parts about 1.5” or so to either side of the spool. THEN is was the winch plate too where those points WERE previously making contact. AND THEN....it was the front but in the same spots as the back. FINALLY, the winch fully dropped in. Then the supplied nut plates... they’ll work if you basically cut off 90% of the metal on either side of the nut basically making it where zipping them on lightly rips the metal. My memory is getting fuzzy but I ended up having to totally remove at least some of the nuts from the plates as the nut plates could NOT go down either side of the winch. That’s when I used screwdrivers as a guide to let the nut slide down it toward the end of the bolts. Keep in mind there’s an assembly and test fit each attempt!

I had to grind even more on the right front of the winch to make room for the gold colored threaded machined insert that let’s the right side of the fairlead have a bolting point.

I know you’re excited for it probably but even if you only have half the issues I did, it’s ridiculous. With all sincerity, I’d turn that thing right back where it came from. lol
Very good to know! Seriously, thank you very much for the info.
It is really good to hear real world experiences with this stuff.
I do all my own installs too, and can make pretty much anything work as I am also an amateur blacksmith and have a full shop with multiple grinders, forges, anvils, torch, power and treadle hammers, etc. at my disposal HOWEVER.....
If I am spending this kind of money, well yeah - it better fit! And quite frankly that is not the kind of work I want to do on my brand new overpriced Jeep! haha.
Thank you again -
 

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Lohkay

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I am a good fabricator. That’s why I had the tools and improvising skills needed. Unfortunately, this was NOT bolt on.

Genright says you “might” have to grind “here” (on the back) on the winch. I was not happy about grinding on a $1800+ winch but ok. Then it was more ....and more ....on the back of the winch taking off those pointy parts about 1.5” or so to either side of the spool. THEN is was the winch plate too where those points WERE previously making contact. AND THEN....it was the front but in the same spots as the back. FINALLY, the winch fully dropped in. Then the supplied nut plates... they’ll work if you basically cut off 90% of the metal on either side of the nut basically making it where zipping them on lightly rips the metal. My memory is getting fuzzy but I ended up having to totally remove at least some of the nuts from the plates as the nut plates could NOT go down either side of the winch. That’s when I used screwdrivers as a guide to let the nut slide down it toward the end of the bolts. Keep in mind there’s an assembly and test fit each attempt!

I had to grind even more on the right front of the winch to make room for the gold colored threaded machined insert that let’s the right side of the fairlead have a bolting point.

I know you’re excited for it probably but even if you only have half the issues I did, it’s ridiculous. With all sincerity, I’d turn that thing right back where it came from. lol
Yikes... They shouldn't say it fits then. That warn winch is pretty big, I'd assume other winches might have less issues. I doubt Genright would make a bumper that can't accomodate any winch. Also, returning it is out of the question at this point. I have all the tools and knowledge to go through what you did but thanks for the heads up, I'll probably consider other winch options.
 

moodywizard

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I am a good fabricator. That’s why I had the tools and improvising skills needed. Unfortunately, this was NOT bolt on.

Genright says you “might” have to grind “here” (on the back) on the winch. I was not happy about grinding on a $1800+ winch but ok. Then it was more ....and more ....on the back of the winch taking off those pointy parts about 1.5” or so to either side of the spool. THEN is was the winch plate too where those points WERE previously making contact. AND THEN....it was the front but in the same spots as the back. FINALLY, the winch fully dropped in. Then the supplied nut plates... they’ll work if you basically cut off 90% of the metal on either side of the nut basically making it where zipping them on lightly rips the metal. My memory is getting fuzzy but I ended up having to totally remove at least some of the nuts from the plates as the nut plates could NOT go down either side of the winch. That’s when I used screwdrivers as a guide to let the nut slide down it toward the end of the bolts. Keep in mind there’s an assembly and test fit each attempt!

I had to grind even more on the right front of the winch to make room for the gold colored threaded machined insert that let’s the right side of the fairlead have a bolting point.

I know you’re excited for it probably but even if you only have half the issues I did, it’s ridiculous. With all sincerity, I’d turn that thing right back where it came from. lol
You wouldnt happen to be the same dadjokes as on FB? If so you are pretty famous. :)
 

1quick1

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In on this thread! While my LOD shorty signature series has been PERFECT after 2 winters and it looks brand new, I'd like to reduce front end weight a touch. The bumper and skid combined must be 120lbs (just guessing).
 

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Jaharr6788

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A shout-out to Quadratec’s great customer service! I ordered a Rock Hard aluminum bumper through them. First, they gave me a Forum discount. Then, when the bumper (which shipped directly from Rock Hard) arrived damaged, Rock Hard said they would not allow me to file a claim if I signed for it. Quadratec said they would replace it even if I signed for it. (I didn’t sign for it, so Rock Hard did replace it, but I’m just sayin’.)
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