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Alternator charging.... Is there a fix? Aftermarket?

Bombout800

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I know the alternator charges the battery to 100% and then maintains whatever voltage it needs to keep the battery charged. Hence why it charges at 14.1-14.2 on start-up and 2 mins later 12.9-13.5 or whatever it decides. Coast about 5 seconds and its charging at 14-14.2. Aggravates the hell out of me 😂

I've searched and cannot find an answer so i guess there isn't one. Is there a way to fix this issue? I need to get an aftermarket high output alternator. My issue is that, i don't want to buy one and have the weird charging cycles these things do. The problem associated with either internally regulated higher than oem, externally regulated, or self exciting, is a battery light will be present.

Has anyone come up with a fix to disable the warning light? Is there anything in the tazer that allows you to override the oem charging algorithm? Be it to save fuel or whatever the purpose, it's a huge pain. Does an increase in amperage draw and voltage drop make it charge more consistently? Am i being stubborn or am i not understanding how it works entirely? I'm open to hear whatever options or that I'm stupid 😂

Im shocked not to see this being more of an issue. Especially with all the aftermarket 12v accessories and stereos. I know people have put agm or lithium in their setups at some point. They need 13.8-14.8 to maintain them and keep them healthy.

What gives?
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Beachcomber72

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I know the alternator charges the battery to 100% and then maintains whatever voltage it needs to keep the battery charged. Hence why it charges at 14.1-14.2 on start-up and 2 mins later 12.9-13.5 or whatever it decides. Coast about 5 seconds and its charging at 14-14.2. Aggravates the hell out of me 😂

I've searched and cannot find an answer so i guess there isn't one. Is there a way to fix this issue? I need to get an aftermarket high output alternator. My issue is that, i don't want to buy one and have the weird charging cycles these things do. The problem associated with either internally regulated higher than oem, externally regulated, or self exciting, is a battery light will be present.

Has anyone come up with a fix to disable the warning light? Is there anything in the tazer that allows you to override the oem charging algorithm? Be it to save fuel or whatever the purpose, it's a huge pain. Does an increase in amperage draw and voltage drop make it charge more consistently? Am i being stubborn or am i not understanding how it works entirely? I'm open to hear whatever options or that I'm stupid 😂

Im shocked not to see this being more of an issue. Especially with all the aftermarket 12v accessories and stereos. I know people have put agm or lithium in their setups at some point. They need 13.8-14.8 to maintain them and keep them healthy.

What gives?
What year and engine model are you referring to? And are you saying you have warning light on for the alternator?
 
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Bombout800

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2019 3.6. No light, just the weird charging that everyone has.
 

Beachcomber72

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2019 3.6. No light, just the weird charging that everyone has.
The charging numerics at different times you posted are 100% normal. It just sounds as if you like many others, have become fixated on the digital gauge that is going to fluctuate more times per minute than pete davidsons love life.
 

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I know people have put agm or lithium in their setups at some point. They need 13.8-14.8 to maintain them and keep them healthy.
You'd typically use a DC-to-DC converter to keep your LiFePo4 battery charged. One of the things that they do is to keep your alternator running sufficiently to charge the secondary battery, ideally without overburdening it.

Without something like that the voltage will flow from the higher voltage battery to the lower, draining the LiFePo4 and potentially frying your main battery.
 
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Reinen

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That's just how a smart alternator works. There is nothing to fix, unless you're trying to revert to old technology that does nothing but reduce your MPG. Smart alternators work a lot like regenerative braking, only drawing from engine RPM when you're easing up on the gas and want it to slow down anyway. This results in "free" energy not generated from gas which reduces your MPG.

tl;dr - That fluctuating charging voltage is normal and a good thing.
 

J0E

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I need to get an aftermarket high output alternator.
Why do you need a higher output alternator? Mine is 240 A, I think that comes with the tow package. Why do you need more?

I'd like a 400 A alternator for long pulls with my winch, but even the ZEON 12 PLATINUM WINCH doesn't have a 100% duty cycle, so I let the winch cool down while the battery charges up.
 
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Bombout800

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Why do you need a higher output alternator? Mine is 240 A, I think that comes with the tow package. Why do you need more?

I'd like a 400 A alternator for long pulls with my winch, but even the ZEON 12 PLATINUM WINCH doesn't have a 100% duty cycle, so I let the winch cool down while the battery charges up.
Stereo, lights, winch, compressor eventually, whatever.
 

lashlee

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Ohio Generator was one that I used on a stereo install in the past (6 RF Power 1000's on a wall of 6-15's in a mini truck) or a Mechman in a Mustang Cobra (that likes to cook the OEM alternator) would be the two companies that I would contact to see if they offer something that will satisfy your requests.

Like others have noted, it's all normal and something to not worry so much about. As a long time car audio installer, it won't matter in the long run. If your current demands are high enough, the smart alternator will compensate for the demands you are anticipating. As far as the stereo is concerned, you won't be pulling as much current as you think you'll be doing unless you go overboard on the install. I have three 5 channel amps in my car (not a JL but has about 3600 watts RMS) and will only pull about 100a at full tilt. Most of the time the current meter that I installed shows 0. I would use a DC current clamp to see what you've really pulling from the battery.
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