Alternative filler neck for large diesel nozzles?

[TheMike]

I didn’t get around to it. I had to install the bumper, winch, and a few other things before I had hit the road. Just got back a few days ago so I suppose I can do it soon.

It’s definitely annoying not being able to use “truck diesel” when I have a fleet card and fuel my RV at the same time.

@TheMike I wonder if you could modify your filler neck like I have on my truck. My tank in the bed gravity feeds the main tank. It would be a relatively long fuel line, but the result would be pretty cool. Are those AEV carriers gravity fed, with a hookup, or are They just a nozzle type?

The AEV tank is neither. Well, it’s a tank with a cap on the high point. You have to use a siphon to get the fuel out.

The tank is hard mounted.

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[IVE SPENT TOO MUCH MONEY]

Ugh, if it had a plug at the bottom of it, could easily run a fuel line off of it to the main tank. But that's still a pretty cool design.

 

[TheMike]

Ugh, if it had a plug at the bottom of it, could easily run a fuel line off of it to the main tank. But that's still a pretty cool design.

Yeah, it’s been asked and talked about...a drain or the like. But it would be a tough thing to do for longevity and/or having problems.

 

[geoexchange]

I hate to burst everyone's bubble, but some of the directions in this thread may not be right - for everyone. Please read I said "for everyone". If it worked for you, great. For me, it was a complete frustrating waste of time and money.

1. You cannot access the filler neck without taking out the inner fenders.
2. You cannot remove the inner fenders without pushing out the plastic rivets, which are NOT reusable.
3. If you try to "lift it over" the rivets, you will enlarge/damage the inner fender.
4. Plastic fasteners will break off, even with an appropriate removal tool.
5. Once you wrestle out the filler neck (there are wires in the way), it is impossible to take apart as shown. Not only did I break off a piece of plastic, but I tried for 2 hours and gave up, which meant:

Go to local parts store and buy all new plastic push connectors, rig up an aftermarket plastic rivet to work, wrestle the neck and rubber gasket back around the filler tube. Now my inner fender is crap, and I have hillbilly-looking fasteners on my fender.

Not to mention wasting at least 4 hours of my life for nothing.

AGAIN - this was not written to imply the other poster is wrong, just that it may not work on YOUR JLURD. It obviously works on some - previous posters has nice pictures of him doing the job, but it certainly didn't on mine.

Any other alternatives? Does the included funnel work at the truck pumps with an auto-shutoff????
Will a truck ecodiesel neck work?

Thanks

 

[Jteakus]

I’m sorry for your pain and difficulty. I guess I should have made a YouTube video instead of just taking pictures. It just didn’t seem like a hard process. Again, I apologize.

 

[geoexchange]

I’m sorry for your pain and difficulty. I guess I should have made a YouTube video instead of just taking pictures. It just didn’t seem like a hard process. Again, I apologize.

Absolutely no need to apologize!

You are trying to help fellow Jeepers and I appreciate that and the time you took to take pictures and do the post.

It just didn't work for -me-. I hope it works for others, and I wish it would have worked for me!!!!

 

[WVJEEPZ]

Just wanted to thank the group for the info. Installed the modified filler pipe Saturday. Pretty easy and straightforward for the 2021. I’m used to removing fender liners, so I have replacement christmas trees and plastic rivets readily available. I was able to disconnect the rear washer hose at the quick disconnect to move it out of the way. I the removed the nut holding the pipe to the body, and loosened the pipe clamp at the rubber hose. I was then able to pull the pipe free from the back side without messing with anything else inside the fuel door. I used a little silicone grease on the pipe gasket before sliding the pipe up in place. With a little patience I got the rubber hose reconnected well. Good to go!! Thank you for a solution!

 

[Compression-Ignition]

How in the world did you get that out with a thin flat screw driver? Mine was in there so effing tight, I had to cut the thing apart to see how it was held together. No amount of pressing on those plastic nibs (or whatever you want to call them) would allow the thing to come loose. It was jammed in there tighter than tight, on top of having those nibs to contend with.

I was seriously glad I was messing with one I ordered instead of the one off the Jeep.

Revisiting this.

I bought a transfer tank for my F-350 and the nozzle on the dispenser is the bigger one that won't fit the Jeep. I want to fill the Jeep from the truck now and in the future, so I decided to put my big boy pants on and get this done.

1. I had already removed the fender liners quite some time ago so that was not a step I had to contend with.

2. Cleaned off the road grime near the join from the filler neck to the rubber hose with brake cleaner and wiped with a shop rag.

3. Took off the 10mm nut holding the bracket welded to the filler neck.

4. Loosened the 7mm band clamp on the rubber hose.

5. I did not have to remove the rubber grommet type piece that isolates the filler neck top from the fuel....cubby....area....deal. Unscrew the cap. Work a little pick or tiny screw driver around the grommet and pull down on the filler neck. It came out pretty easy. The rubber hose had enough slack to kind of fold over on itself.

6. With twisting motions pull the filler neck from the hose.

7. Put the filler neck in a vise. (I used a chain vise)

Note: On my factory filler neck one of the little nibs that lock the plastic insert piece to the filler was already out of the locking tab. Production differences? Anyhow, it was way more loose than the extra one that I ordered.

8. Knocked the other side out of the tab slot. I did have to wedge a little screw driver in as it wanted to relock the previous side. Had to wedge it open.

9. Once both sides were broke free from the locking tab slot I was able to do like @Jteakus said and work a flat blade screw driver around the edge and the female plastic fuel cap receiver and the discriminator deal just popped right out easy as pie.

10. Took a pick and slid it between the tabs and nibs of the filler cap receiver and the discriminator deal and this popped right out as well.

11. Put the fuel cap receiver back in the filler neck (make sure it is oriented correctly, one side has a longer nib and one a shorter. The filler neck has the same setup, a longer and shorter receiving tab slot).



I did this last night in like 15 minutes. I can't believe how much more difficult the filler neck I ordered was to work with than the one that came on the Jeep. Friggin' nuts.

 

[Jteakus]

The filler mod is by far my favorite done to Jeep.

 

[CaptStarboard]

What would a 'sensor' be sensing? Don't think it would be 'sensing' a plastic spout adapter.....

I don't have the Jeep yet so I have nothing to work with, but I suspect it is just a spring loaded mechanism of some sort.

I had a Dodge Ram, had issues once because the fuel cap was loose/leaking pressure... so could be a similar Mopar thing, a sensor checking that your cap is sealed on...

 

[IQ_imbalance]

I hate to burst everyone's bubble, but some of the directions in this thread may not be right - for everyone. Please read I said "for everyone". If it worked for you, great. For me, it was a complete frustrating waste of time and money.

1. You cannot access the filler neck without taking out the inner fenders.
2. You cannot remove the inner fenders without pushing out the plastic rivets, which are NOT reusable.
3. If you try to "lift it over" the rivets, you will enlarge/damage the inner fender.
4. Plastic fasteners will break off, even with an appropriate removal tool.
5. Once you wrestle out the filler neck (there are wires in the way), it is impossible to take apart as shown. Not only did I break off a piece of plastic, but I tried for 2 hours and gave up, which meant:

Go to local parts store and buy all new plastic push connectors, rig up an aftermarket plastic rivet to work, wrestle the neck and rubber gasket back around the filler tube. Now my inner fender is crap, and I have hillbilly-looking fasteners on my fender.

Not to mention wasting at least 4 hours of my life for nothing.

AGAIN - this was not written to imply the other poster is wrong, just that it may not work on YOUR JLURD. It obviously works on some - previous posters has nice pictures of him doing the job, but it certainly didn't on mine.

Any other alternatives? Does the included funnel work at the truck pumps with an auto-shutoff????
Will a truck ecodiesel neck work?

Thanks

Doesn't the inner fender liner come out along with the fender itself as one piece?

 

[WVJEEPZ]

The inner fender liner is separate from the fender. You only need to remove the inner fender liner. You will need replacement plastic rivets - standard supplies when working on the Jeep.

 

[brewski]

When you do this you no longer have a "door" on the filler neck so the only thing holding a seal is your gas cap. Has anyone that has done this had any errors pop up about gas cap not tight, etc? Curious on this since my jeep is primarily used for travel and being able to fill up at truck nozzles would be very helpful.

I haven't done this or ordered parts to look at this, so maybe that hinged door is not working a redundant seal and only as a gate keeper for nozzle size.

 

[9mmkungfu]

Has anyone that has done this had any errors pop up about gas cap not tight, etc?

No issues. More of a concern with gas vs diesel.

 

[brewski]

No issues. More of a concern with gas vs diesel.

Good to know.
I would use the nozzle adapter a lot for my jerry cans and not having to deal with that and clean it on the trails before putting it back would be that extra bonus. Diesel is like an oil, it sticks to things vs gas that evaporates.

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